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front driveshaft

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Tuff84blaze, May 31, 2000.

  1. Tuff84blaze

    Tuff84blaze 1/2 ton status

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    Did anybody else, after installing a 4" lift have to grind off an 1/8" on the front driveshaft stops (the extra bit on the CVC plate that is suposed to keep the shaft from falling in the event that a joint breaks) to keep it from hitting and to allow it to turn? what other options do I have, lowering the t-case maybe?
     
  2. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    I didn't need to use a grinder. Mine was just off a little bit and I was able to clearance it with a file. If you drop the case it will be worse in front. This was with a 4" lift, 1" xfer case drop, and a custom driveshaft(Tom Woods).

    BigJBear '80 GMC
     
  3. smack

    smack 1/2 ton status

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    Are you talking about the subframe that supports the t-case??
    After a 3.5 lift on my '87 Jimmy my CV is rubbing and I thought about grinding off that front piece. For now, upon the recommedation of Off-Road Design, I'm gonna get a new t-case support bushing and even shim it up a little.
     
  4. smack

    smack 1/2 ton status

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    Hey BigjBear,
    How much did you file off??
     
  5. 87Blzr

    87Blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Did you guys get to use your original driveshaft? I have a 87 K5 Silverado that has a 4 inch lift, 35 Wrangler M/T's and lockers front and rear. I had to add spacers about two inches long or so in between the front driveshaft and transfer case. How come you guys didn't? I know spacers probably aren't the best but they have served fine for years with the current setup

    87 K5 Siverado, 68 SS 396 Camaro
     
  6. BigBadBowTie

    BigBadBowTie 1/2 ton status

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    Now I'm confused I have a 4" lift on my 86, & I still have the stock front driveshaft. I didn'y have to make any mods to it what so ever. In the 6 years since it's been lifted only broke one front joint.

    Do have another question on it though. Should there be some kin of plug on the slip joint part of the shaft to keep the grease in? Mine's never had one! But I remember seeing a military Blazer with a plug

    Rick
    86 K-5
    http://www.coloradok5.com/RMcPherson.htm
     
  7. smack

    smack 1/2 ton status

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    Hey '87 Blzr,
    All I know is that every truck is different. I may have to extend mine but I don't think so. How did you know to extend yours??
     
  8. 87Blzr

    87Blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Smack, I did this years ago but I think I found out the hard way. I installed the lift then went to install the front driveshaft and it was way too short. The only solution I could think of at the time was adding spacers between the driveshaft and transfer case. I didn't know how safe it would be but I haven't needed to replace any u-joints on the front shaft yet and no other problems up front even with lockers front and rear for a long time now. I used to be pretty hard on the truck, I'm nicer to it now but it still goes in the pit with no problems

    87 K5 Siverado, 68 SS 396 Camaro
     
  9. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    I ended up filing off about 1/16". Just enough to make everything smooth. What I did was filed it untill I could spin the shaft by hand (make shure you are in 2WD) and then went a little more, so maybe I did go 1/8" on one ear but it was realy a rough casting. If it hadden't bound up on that one bad spot I doubt I would have touched it at all. I was just worried it would bind as the springs cycled.
    I bought a new front shaft because my slip shaft was frozen from driving on the beach. Also even with the full travel on the stock shaft it would have been barely long enough, and not enough travel. With a 6" slipshaft I use all but a 1/2" of compression and 1" of droop. If you need to know more let me know, Jim.

    BigJBear '80 GMC
     
  10. titanic

    titanic 1/2 ton status

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    The Spicer CV's usually don't have to be ground because they rotate at larger angles. Saginaw(sp?), square flange type CV's can be ground off quite-a-bit . I think you're better off retubing your shaft instead of using the spacer but if your truck is mostly used on pavement, they work just fine. Using the spacer, makes the CV angle a little worst-it just makes your shaft longer.
     
  11. smack

    smack 1/2 ton status

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    Ahhhh, you ground the CV not the crossmember. That's interesting. I'll try that if my spacer idea doesn't work.
    But where could I find a spicer CV and how much??
     
  12. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    I doubt a parts store would have them, but a driveshaft shop should. If you can't find one localy get in touch with Tom Woods. He will sell you parts or if you need, build you a new shaft. He has free shipping on new shafts but I don't know if that goes for parts, too. His web site is: 4xshaft.com. If you have any questions about quality I can say, and I am sure others will, he does good work. Jim.

    BigJBear '80 GMC
     

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