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Front end and rear end narrowing??? And rant...(long)

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Emmettology 101, Oct 2, 2003.

  1. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Ok has anyone had a 10/44 or 12 bolt rear narrowed? If so, what did it cost?

    I may do a project here but not sure what to use on it. My 86 K5 has a 10bolt and 12 bolt with 4.56's and a Detroit(rear0/True Trac(front).... THe body is going quick so I may scrap it.(Sorry Jerry) /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
    Tonight I am getting a 89/90 Toyota p/u for casically free(trading stuff)... So I have been debating on getting the K5 axles cut down(to a little wider than stock Yota) and put them under the Yota along with the 700r4. Then I would find a 4.3 to put in front of the 700 and a 241 for behind it(with a SYE).... THis would make for a nice and stout little rig on 35's(something like an MT/R)....

    So I have been e-mailing around to see what prices will be. Moser got back to me and said they cant do fronts, but CAN do the rear for $95 for narrowing the housing and $95 for the shaft shortening... That sounds like a good deal. Well I figured I would look around too. Dutchman doesn't have e-mail so I didn't call yet. Next on the list was Currie. I was triying to avoid them but figured I would try. THeir reply seemed very foolish to me. First they say they dont work at all with 10 bolts and dont know anyone who does. Then they tell me they would probably stick with an 85 or older Toy front with 44 outer to eliminate the Birf's.... They proceed to tell me: "I would go with 44 outers long before I would go with 10 bolt outers just because the 44 outers are so much more plentiful and easier to find parts for. " WHat??? They are the same if you use the same as long as you use the same design spindles! And I have an easier time finding 10 bolts than 44's...
    After all that they proceed to tell me they wouldn't recommed using a 12 bolt rear because again of parts availability issues. WTF???? They said they would use a Ford 9" instead. No [darn], so you can sell me a $3500 rear axle.. *shaking head*.
    One thing they did say was it was no problem swapping on big bearing Ford 9" ends to eliminate the c-clips and they never referred to any weakness...

    After all this they finish out the e-mail with:
    "-- That size of tire is just very hard on parts - you really want to build something stout from the start, and build something that there is a lot of optional parts for so you can have enough options available to you to be able to build a unit that optimizes your tire size and your engine's output."

    So a Toyota with a 4.3 and 35's is goign to be harder on stuff than my K5 with heavier tires and heavier overall??? *shaking head once again*

    I know most wont approve of my project idea, but I am looking to eliminate my multiple vehicles down to one that can be a good DD(with better mpg) yet can hit the trails if the time comes. I'll still be a k5'er at heart and when I get a chance again, will build another down the road.

    So back to my subject. Have you had an axle narrowed and what did it cost you?

    Thanks!
     
  2. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I warned you about Currie...
    they wouldn't quote on GM axles for me either..
    They said...a 9"hp would be the most durable...
    They gave me a price of 4,000.00 for a rear. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

    My Bronco buddy Bill...just had Moser shorten his axle shafts...and re-spline.
    He said they were great to work with... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  3. reeser

    reeser 1/2 ton status

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    these peeps don't understand that you're trying to use 'stock on hand'!!!! no crap if you had the dough to buy brand spankin new axles you'd probably get 60's w/ alloy shafts. you, however, already have cash invested in gears and lockers and you want to see that investment pay off. i think anything is possible, so go for it. use the available parts that you have and run with it.

    -my $.02
     
  4. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Ya, I knew I didn't want to go with Currie but I figured I would just see. *shaking head* They're a bunch of butt heads.

    Moser was really nice in their responses... The only bad thing is they cant do a front housing.
     
  5. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    My thoughts exactly.... They are just looking at it from a "Hey we can soak this guy for thousands!" standpoint. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. justhorsinaround

    justhorsinaround 3/4 ton status

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    Ko evidently I'm an idiot. What's the difference between shortening the front versus the rear?? Good luck in your search.

    Allan
     
  7. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    Just install them as is,full width under the Toy.I have seen alot of Toys around here like that and they look pretty cool /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Ya could stick with Toy axles though,they are pretty tough.Gear swaps are easy,you can get factory electric lockers for them,and get a birfield eliminator kit and yer set. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Or just put the Toy body on yer K5 /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  8. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    One more thought,

    With custom width axles ya need custom width spare shafts,that could git spendy /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  9. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    I honestly dont know... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  10. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Well fullsize would be cool, but on a DD I would afraid of running into law problems.

    As for spares. Yes, I have realized this, but I doo have spare fronts and rears I could get done...
     
  11. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Just install them as is,full width under the Toy

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I agree w/ Frizz... Custom length axle shafts (including spares) can easily double the cost of the whole project./forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    Marv
     
  12. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Well I have thoguth about that. But I have everything I need except for the 4.3 and 241 case....( and small stuff like D-shafts and such).... SO the only $ in the project will b e for the axle fabin and the stuff I mentioned. I have a line on a 4.3 thoguh that I think I can get cheap!
     
  13. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    Why not just adjust the spring hanger widths on the TOy and then run as much BS as possible to keep the tires tucked in? If need be maybe add some flares or something... This just seems like a really expensive way to go to lose a few inches of width. Could you could just run a C&C rear dually axle with regular wheels on it and then find a narrower front 44, like something out of a Wagoneer or something?
     
  14. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Great minds think alike! /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

    I was just thinking this. I would be running 15x8's and was thinking if 5" BS or more would work on the 10bolt? I will be runnign cross over with high steer so I may be able ot get short HS arms to clear the wheels and may be able to shorten the existing low steer arm for clearence...

    Hmmm.....
     
  15. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Mike, I know somebody who can do both of them and he is just north of Harrisburg. PM me if you are interested in more info.
     
  16. tomseviltwin

    tomseviltwin 1/2 ton status

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    Why not just use toy axles. Put longfield joints in front and they'll hold up to 35's all day
     
  17. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    meh, why spend all the $ to narrow the axles down? run em at full width, hybrid-style.

    j
     
  18. Stroked72Blazer

    Stroked72Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    a buddy of mine just put a Mazda body on his k5 and using the stock width axles is 8" narrower with Hummer wheels. This worked for a great combo as the tires stick out far enough to slide around trees and such.
     

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