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Front end relocation

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by white-rhyno, Mar 1, 2002.

  1. white-rhyno

    white-rhyno 1/2 ton status

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    I have heard of some guys moving there front end an inch or two forward. I hate to sound dumb but how is this accomplished. There is something I am looking over. Do you re drill holes in your spring pack or what. Thanks for any info.
     
  2. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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  3. JIM88K5

    JIM88K5 1/2 ton status

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    You get a little more clearance at the rear of the wheel well. ORD has a 1 inch block with holes machined for an inch or inch and a half. Check the ORD part of this site for more info.
    Jim

    88 Silverado K5 5.7-700R-208-10 bolts-4.56-35in
    Procomp AT's- some ORD stuff & a CV driveshaft
     
  4. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    I just ordered a set from ORD this week and I will let you know what I think of them when they arrive.

    See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  5. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    i just ordered and received my ord add a leafs...they are awesome...excellent worksmanship and come with all the hardware...that is all you will need...

    Later

    Just tap it in...tappity tap tap...
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Mine should be here today. If all goes well by the end of the weekend they should be installed. Also putting in the ORD one inch body lift and a new set of body bushings. I'll take some pictures and if I have time I'll do a write up on it.
    Now before folks go and scream no lift blocks in the front...these are not really lift blocks. I Talked the Stephen for about 30 minutes about these. Here is what is different.
    This is a zero rate add a leaf. A lift block goes between the spring pack and the perch. These are held to the spring pack by the spring centering pin. Same way an overlead leaf is attached. There is a locator pin that can go with zero axle shift, 1 inch or 1.5 inches. You do have to drill a hole for the bolt to go into the spring plate when you do this. The only way this thing can spit out is if the centering pin shears. The same thing would happen with or without the Add a Leaf if the pin shears.

    Women dig dents and flat paint!
    coloradok5.com/gallery/Grim
    75 Jimmy, Dollar
    Grim-Reaper
     
  7. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    hey grimmy some pics and a write up would be great! you could do it with all the free time you have Hehehe.

    try'n to keep the greasy side down
     
  8. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    <blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

    Also putting in the ORD one inch body lift and a new set of body bushings.

    <hr></blockquote>
    Take alot of pics there Grimmy..I'm gonna tackle the same project real soon also!

    white-rhyno, you might want to look around in the member rigs albums. You might find some pics of the <a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm>Zero rates</a> installed!



    Eric
    from Freekmont,CA.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.community.webshots.com/user/vwryda>I'm Discombobulated </a>
     
  9. mnstr_fx

    mnstr_fx Registered Member

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    For those who want, you can do this without the ORD kit. The ORD kit looks nice, but all you really need are some THICK flat plate and some drill bits. What you are doing is moving the pin location on the axle back 1". This causes the plates which hold the springs in place to not line up. (off by 1") This is where you take the plate and drill 5 holes, (4 for the u bolts and 1 for the pin - 1" back) and install them. Unless you add provisions for the sway bar, it will not be retained. This is the only major down fall to the do it your self kit.

    I did mine and it works great. I never run a sway bar anyway but I also never tow with my trail rig. And yes, moving the axle forward 1" may sound like not too much, but it helps out alot on tire to cab clearance.


    76-82 Chevy Pickup / Blazer - K5-K10-K30
    90' TBI
    TH 400
    203 / 205 Doubler
    Dana 60, Corp 14 - 4.88'd - Detroit Locked
     
  10. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    This (custom plates) is essentially what I'm doing, except I'm moving mine 2" to keep my 42s off the firewall with only 4" of lift.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked, 4" lift, 42" tires
    Some day: massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  11. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

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    If you are going to use the blocks up front you should read . I fabbed my own blocks and used them on the rear. I did not use the blocks on the front of mine due mainly to what Stephen has said in the linked post. I re-drilled my spring perches and top plates an inch off center and moved it forward that way. <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albuo71/aai>Here is my relocation block for the rear. I just went to the local spring shop and bought the blocks then drilled the holes myself. Total cost was about $15. The only reason I did not buy ORD's was they were not available when I did it. Mine moves the axle 1.5" off center(you can move the rear axle forward if you wanted to).
    The reason I moved my front axle forward was to gain clearence between the tire and the rear of the front fender well. Unfortunately, I still have contact without trimming...
    The rear was moved back 1.5" due to the tire not sitting in the center of the wheel well.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albuo71>My K5 Stuff</a>
     
  12. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

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    Oh, btw my block is designed to look like the block is centered on the spring perch. You have the same amount of block extending front and back. If you study My K5 Stuff
     
  13. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Here is one point on making your own that I'm unsure of. When drilling the counter sink for the spring pin head, did you use a common drill bit? That will result in a tapered bottom and the bolt head (or washer) will only contact on the outer edges. Seems to me this is not a good thing. So, I'm thinking of getting someone to drop a square bottom end mill in there for the counter sink. Any of you machinists (or mechanical engineers) got any comments on using a tapered hole (ala drill bit)?

    Also, with the pin, did you do a resistance fit dowel that is pressed in? I was planning to drill it all the way through and welding the pin from the back side.

    One more thing. In order to make ABSOLUTELY sure it does not weaken the front spring mounting, I'm planning on "locking" it in. Basically just weld some 1/4" square key stock on each end so that it laps over the perch front and rear. Then, no way can the lower plate come out without the u-bolts turning loose, in which case your SOL anyway.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked, 4" lift, 42" tires
    Some day: massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  14. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    I would use a mill and make it a flat surface.

    See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  15. Sparky

    Sparky 1/2 ton status

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    Ahh, I hear my calling. (mechanical engineering student. does that count?) You are right about counter sink thing with a normal drill bit. It concentrates the stress on the outside edge of the head of the bolt. It wont be as strong, but probably not going to be anything to worry about if you use good hardware. The head of the bolt is not where a bolt will typicaly break anyways. Usually they break down by the threads cause it has a smaller diameter typicaly.

    Sparky

    When all else fails... Check the blinker fluid.
    78 K-5
     
  16. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

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    In my non-engineer opinion, I do not think the pin head taper area contact is a major issue, although the pin is slighter tapered. If you keep your ubolts tight it will never move and I drilled a large enough hole in the top plate, I can retighten if necessary. If you just relied on the pin to keep the spring pack together it would not last long. Yes the dowell was press fitted. I made the dowell long enough where it just clears the axle tube. So if by chance dropped down, it would only move less than 1/16". I think your idea is good about welding it in from the top, though I did not go that route.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albuo71>My K5 Stuff</a>
     
  17. mnstr_fx

    mnstr_fx Registered Member

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    Mechanical Engineer here..... The biggest problem with having a tapered seat is in the bolt preload department. For ANY bolted joint, you want a good, flat, hard surface for the bolt to seat on in order to get maximum preload. The preload is what helps keep the joint tight. Now, as for spring relocation, the problem would be after the bolt starts to loosen, it will waller, (spelling??) around in the hole. This will cause the spring pack to loosen up. BAD THING.

    The idea of welding on little legs to keep it centered is a good idea if you are going to wheel it hard.

    77 Chevy Pickup / Blazer K30
    90' TBI - TH 400
    203 / 205 Doubler
    Dana 60, Corp 14 - 4.88'd - Detroit Locked
    42" TSL's
     

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