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Front Hub Experts?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by JST12, Oct 1, 2001.

  1. JST12

    JST12 1/2 ton status

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    I am having troubles installing new Warn Premium front locking hubs and was hoping someone else has seen this and might have a solution. One hub went together just fine, but on the other side the internal hub assy hits the theaded spindle where the wheel bearing lock nuts go. The hub is not hitting the lock nuts, just the threaded spindle. I measured and it is sticking out 1/8 inch more than the working side. Does anyone know why this would be, or how to correct the difference in spindle position inside the hub? This is a 79 3/4 ton axle (10 bolt). Any ideas? Thanks, JT
     
  2. taterblazer

    taterblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Maybe bearings?

    This one is strange but it could be your bearings are shot or you have spun a race and the spindle nut has been tightened down to take out the slack increasing the length of the spindle in the hub? This is a wild shot in the dark.
     
  3. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    So are you saying that the axelsaft is not sticking out far enough to put the snap ring on? If so just take a screwdriver and stick it in the knuckle were the ujoint is and push the axel forward to expose the grove for the snap ring.
    The inside of the hub itself has groves too so make sure thoes are clear of bugers and/or nicks.
    Other than that the spindel it self should not be the reason for the hub not seating all the way in, something else must be it.
    Wrong part??
    Did you service the spindel bearing too? If so maby the spindel is not seated properly?
    Good Luck

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/baja/5099>www.geocities.com/baja/5099</a>
     
  4. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

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    I think you will be able to seat it by pushing the axle towards you simply by wedging a large screwdriver in the U-joint.
    If not, I remembered someone posting having identical problems and removing the spacer behind the snapring to gain clearance.

    <font color=red><a target="_blank" href=http://www.espen88k5.alloffroad.com>www.espen88k5.alloffroad.com</a></font color=red>
     
  5. JST12

    JST12 1/2 ton status

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    No, it's not related to the axle shaft sticking out. I can use a pry bar in the knuckle to pull the axle shaft out far enough to get the snap ring on. My problem is that I can't get the outer lock ring (inside edge of hub) on because I can't press the internal locking hub assy far enough into the hub. If it were that my bearings were bad, the locknut should go deeper into the hub but the threaded spindle would still be in the same position...right? It seems like there is spacer of some sort missing between the spindle and outer hub which is allowing the spindle to penetrate too far into the hub. HMMMM. I called Warn and they said to return the hubs and buy a competitors kit because they are thinner and might fit. Great.
     
  6. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Hmmm, duno bro! I doubt it's the hub itself. You may want to pull the otherside and try to slide in the other hub to see if it's different.
    Strange!! Kinda hard to guess with out looking at it.
    Good luck

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
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  7. taterblazer

    taterblazer 1/2 ton status

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    No spacer...

    Rotor assembley race rides again the bearing which pushes on the spindle on a 1/2 ton. Might be the spindle has worn allowing the rotor assembley to push further onto the spindle. I would yank the whole rotor and take a look. If you go that far you might as well do the bearing that goes in the spindle and the wheel bearings. Hell do the u-joint to.
     
  8. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Re: No spacer...

    True! You could possably compare the position of the rotor to the other one from like the dust sheld to rotor.
    wierd,,,,never had that prob before!

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
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  9. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    I was just about to bring up the idea of pulling the rotor assemblies off and comparing those. You could have something wacked out in your bearings that is casuing your hub to sit incorrectly. Your hubs should be the same thickness on both sides. They should also seat the same distance in on the spindles on each side. If not, you could have even bigger problems.

    If you don't have a spindle nut socket (I think that's what its called), come on over and I will help you. I am in Plano. If all else fails, line everything up, set the hub in place, and you can hold it while I swing the sledge. We can make it fit. Sound OK to you?

    Brian
    A new day.... May God be with us all.
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  10. RedDwarf

    RedDwarf 1/2 ton status

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    Re: No spacer...

    I just posted this on another thread asking the same thing.

    There could be a stamped metal ring that went on the inner end of the spring. This would probably be about an 1/8" thick. Probe around in the bottom of the hub and see if it's in there.

    Still Poundin' "pavment" after 283 Posts!!!
     
  11. Rob 85K5

    Rob 85K5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Look at this diagram. http://wsphotofews.excite.com/012/CI/3P/JO/K186344.jpg
    Items 30, 29, 28, 9, &amp; 7 are the only items that need to be installed from the outer bearing out, once you get rid of the automatic hubs. They should be installed in that order with the warn internal piece between parts 28 &amp; 9.
    Note on an '85 the snap ring on the axle stub will not go back on with the Warn hub.

    Hope this helps.




    Rob 85K5

    <font color=orange>Bleedin' Chevy Orange</font color=orange>
     
  12. JST12

    JST12 1/2 ton status

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    tx85gmc, I think you're right about pulling the hubs apart to inspect everything. I think I'll pick up a spindle nut wrench, but I'm curious how difficult it will be to pull the hub off. I hear horror stories like pulling a steering arm. You know, hub pullers flying across the garage, cussing, etc.. Maybe I can rent a puller and give it a try. The donor truck for these axles had more s**t rigged up, taped together or missing than I could believe. Sounds like the guy got into the axles too. Thanks for the offer to help. I'll let you know if I need a hand, but we definitely need to hit the trails sometime soon.

    RedDwarf,
    I checked for rings and washers. I don't see anything there but will continue troubleshooting.

    Thanks .
    JT
     
  13. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    Pulling the hubs is a cinch. The steering arm is connected to the steering knuckle. (of course, I am assuming a stock 10-bolt, I don't have any experience with bigger equipment). You can pull the hub in about 15-20 minutes. Like I said, need a hand, let me know. I'm not far from ya.

    Brian
    A new day.... May God be with us all.
    <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Tribute</a>
     
  14. JST12

    JST12 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Front Hub Experts- resolved!

    You were right Brian, the hubs came off really easily. I pulled both to compare . Congrats to taterblazer. You called it. The inner wheel bearing race on the rotor had spun and allowed the wheel bearing to ride 1/8 further into the rotor. I'm glad everyone convinced me to take it apart, because this hub would have melted down for sure at some point. Thanks all. JT
     
  15. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Re: Front Hub Experts- resolved!

    Cool!! Great Job!!

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
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  16. blazer72

    blazer72 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Front Hub Experts- resolved!

    Glad you found out how easy it is to pull the hub down. Most off us that play hard pull the ft hubs and more down befor each or every other hard weekend of 4 wheeling. If it going to be a real hard trip they always come down to be checked all the way to the axel u-joint. Its much easyer to fix a bad or what may be bad part in the drive way at home then on the side of Moab Rim.
     

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