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Front shaft (what do you have)

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 84_Chevy_K10, Mar 8, 2004.

  1. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Right now like many of us I've got the Saginaw CV front driveshaft with a 1310 up at the pinion.

    CV has been clearanced to the max and I'm not sure if it's binding. If not, it's close, but with it disconnected it still allows a couple inches of droop.

    My 1310 up at the front of the shaft is binding HARD. I could probably clearance it and have it be ok, but why? I'll only weaken it and it'll break at the worst possible time.

    So, what did you guys build, what did it cost, etc. I would just like to call HAD and order up a 1350 CV and the yokes to do it but I don't have that kind of cash.

    I was thinking of a two u joint shaft that can potentially be built cheaper and handle the angles better.

    This sucks, I wanted to buy my front lockright and now I'm stuck buying this crap. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Locked front axle doesn't do you much good if you sling your driveshaft though.
     
  2. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    It'll cost about $350 to build plus welding/balancing if you buy the stuff yourself. I don't have any links right now but I'll look for them later.

    No matter what, a CV shaft isn't going to be cheap in the 1350 avenue. The H-yoke alone is twice as expensive for a 1350 as compared to a 1310.

    You could probably build a 1410 or 1450 two joint front shaft that will handle it. I think with a 1350 you'd still have trouble with the tube yokes trying to hit the end yokes if you're having that much of a difficulty with your CV shaft.

    Maybe GMCLegacy or BurbBoy will chime up on this one. They've seen all the two-joint shafts and more that I have and probably built some or all of them.
     
  3. burbBoy

    burbBoy 1/2 ton status

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    The rear shaft in my set up is 38" long with a 6 " lift. Its 2 joint 1350 size joints still need to be ground to clear. so a 1350 2 joint shaft will bind without grinding it. You might get away with a 1310 or 1330 2 joint just because the cap size is smaller.

    I also wouldnt be afraid of the shaft yoke breaking....the u-joint should fail before the yoke or the CV seats will take a dump. There is a blazer sitting in our yard with 12" lift and still has the stock ground CV shaft in front. The CV seats wear out faster but other then that it hasent broken yet.

    If you can afford it 1350 CV is the way to go...or maybe just a high angle 1310 which does save some cash.
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    1410 and square shafts.
     
  5. desertrat67

    desertrat67 Hawk Driver

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    Marv and Rob told me about the square shafts. Said they just start chuncking away at the rock instead of the other way around. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
     
  6. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    LOL, that's basically the truth. Mine tend to just auger on through without paying much mind to the rocks... Actually, it generally doesn't do any damage to the rock other than leaving a light dust about like dragging a diff. I try not to get on them too hard since it's still possible to break a joint or pinion shaft. But, if I happen to slide onto a rock, or the line I want happens to have a badly placed point that would normally be trouble for a shaft, I don't have much concern related to my shaft being damaged. You can do the same (or better) job with a heavy wall round shaft like Rene now runs, but it costs a lot more unless you get lucky like Rene did...
     
  7. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Better yet: Schedule 120 black pipe. And threaded ends. Just don't go in reverse.
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I was thinking of a 1410 shaft for the front with two joints. How bad will it vibrate if I drive say 30-40 mph with the hubs locked? Is it going to vibrate my teeth fillings out, or will it be ok?

    My rear shaft is 52" long and has two 1350s in it and it works out great--no issues at all with that, in fact, I haven't removed it in almost two years.
     
  9. MR4WD

    MR4WD 1/2 ton status

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    I had two busted Dana 60 stubs on hand, so I cut the yokes off and welded one end to the tube and the other to a flange I made on a lathe. It's good for around 52 degrees or something, but at the bottom I used a 1410 good for something like 35 degrees. I made sure the run out was less than ~.007" but it still vibrated pretty bad. You'll always have this problem with a straight u-joint at high angle since the elipse it travels in becomes more and more exaggerated. The only true answer to vibrations is a CV, since it travels in a circle, but at the time the driveshaft did what I needed. I ran it successfully to about 25mph, but after that I worried about bearings. I went through seals pretty quick as well.
     
  10. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    1410'd HAD.

    /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    j
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    MR4wd,

    How much lift do you have? Is the vibration really going to be that horrible with only 6" of lift? That's the major reason I'm debating this, I don't drive my truck on the road with the hubs locked in often, but I don't want it to vibrate my teeth fillings out, or destroy my trans/case either.

    I don't think a 1310 or 1330 or the current saginaw CV will take the angle, nor do I think that it will take the torque that I might put to it, which is what is making me nervous.

    I have a shaft from an automatic truck that will bolt on, it's just 2" too long which I could have it shortened and put a 1410 on the front of it for $200, but I fear that the saginaw CV will continue to bind and eventually will result in breakage.
     

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