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Front spring strength, millitary wrap?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Twiz, Feb 25, 2002.

  1. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    As some of you know, I've been converting the front springs to "stock" rear 52 inch springs on my '74 Jimmy. *for the extra length, shackel-angle, flex and price (free)*.

    I've run into a dilemma.

    The original idea;
    I used the stock 52" main leaf. Then the 2nd leaf was the stock front military wraped 2nd leaf. I liked haveing the military wrap as a "just-in-case" back-up. But it has caused all kindes of design problems, far-to-meny to list here.
    The rest of the leafs were cut/swaped/mixed a dozen times over. It works O.K., but should be and could be much-better.

    The current set-up;
    I used A.M. 4" lifted rear 52" springs, minus several leafs and some other less-arched leafes swapped in. (3-leafs all-togather). This set-up looks like it is the best yet.......Ride-height is perfect, it's soft, shackle angle is ideal, AND (un-like the original idea) it forces the axle down when dropped.
    But,
    I lost the military wrap. (My back-up plan if I snap the main) and I'm worried about useing a thin (thickness-wise) main-leaf.

    For-The-Record;
    A.M., stock length, front 4" lifted spring is about 3/8" thick and 2.5" wide.
    A rear 52" spring is only about a 5/16" thick and 2.5" wide. (weaker than the 3/8" thick spring most companys suplie)

    Sooooo, my question is..

    Is the 5/16" thick main leaf going to be O.K. in the front?
    Should I stick with the original idea? (and use the less-than ideal military-wraped 2nd leaf)
    Is there a company that can "wipp up" a military wraped spring for my application?


    I know this question is a-bit odd, but any in-put would be helpfull.

    Thanks for your time....



    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Eric
    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Twizted
     
  2. Greenblazer-AZ

    Greenblazer-AZ 1/2 ton status

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    I don't have all the answers to your questions, but I do know that there are a few different companys that make custom springs for any aplication. I think National Spring is one such company and they would probably be able to make just what you need.

    If you knew the truth, you too would be against marijuana prohibition!
    Blue '74Blazer Topless W/ 35 BFG Muds1" Body Lift W/ Energy Susp. Bushings
     
  3. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    run it
    you are stressing over nothing

    formerly 77chev
    still a jerk though
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    If you think about it, the rear is where the main load is carried on trucks that actually work for a living. Using it in front is a pretty light duty life considering all it is really the equivalent of carrying an engine in the bed. However, that is just talking about load. There is also the additional stress due to steering forces, as well as the considerable consequences of failure in the front, so I understand your concern. My BDS lift has the second spring extending past the main eye and bent up (as if they started a military wrap, but changed their mind) to prevent the localized flexing that I mentioned before. When I asked them about it, they said it was done like that to eliminate the most common failure point for the front springs, breaking right next to the front eye (the obvious answer, but why not do a full wrap?). How much does your second leaf support the main leaf? As long as it supports most of the main (almost eye to eye) I'm pretty sure you would be ok (although I'm not a spring expert by any means so listening to me might not be in your best interest [​IMG]). If the second leaf is not long enough, it might cause too much localized flex in the area where the second leaf ends, resulting in failure of the main. That’s about all I can contribute (basically nothing [​IMG]). I hope it makes some sense, I'm not completely awake yet and the coffee is still making...

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked, 4" lift, 42" tires
    Some day: massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  5. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    BadDog:
    "There is also the additional stress due to steering forces, as well as the considerable consequences of failure in the front"

    Thjats exactly what I'm worried about. There is alot going on with the front suspension, lots of different forces being applied. Thats why the After-Market companys runn such a thick main leaf (about 3/8 of an inch thick).

    About how thick is the main-leaf on the BDS spring?

    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Eric
    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Twizted
     
  6. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Ahhh, coffee is done. [​IMG]

    Your right. I don't have a mic, but it looks to be just under 3/8".

    BTW, how did you get the Mil wrap on the rear main? Fronts have the leave rolled into the eye on a tangent, rears go in almost straight to the bolt hole.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked, 4" lift, 42" tires
    Some day: massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  7. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    I wedged some bolts between the spring eye and mill-wrap to keep it even the heated it up and bent it back. Then drilled the 2nd leaf useing the 52 as a guide. -Badda-bing.

    I think I'm going to go with the Current set-up, with/out the millitary wrap. The Jeeps run springs that are even thinner than my 5/16" 52s, something like a 1/4 thick. The National springs are, from what I understand, a 1/4 inch thick or so too.

    I might try to make my own 2nd spring, and try to cup the eyes, like the BDS springs..
    I don't know.

    This stuff can get frustrating sometimes. Seams like it's allways two steps forward, and one step back..

    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Eric
    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Twizted
     
  8. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Yeah, I would probably try it too. Just be careful and inspect it frequently, especially after twisting it to it's limits.
    <blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

    . Seams like it's allways two steps forward, and one step back

    <hr></blockquote>
    Aint that the truth! I just did a complete rework of the rear suspension (modified Springer) on the K30, 4" lift all the way around, modified firewall (BFH, cutoff wheel, and sawz-all) and 5012s all around. Lots of other stuff too, getting ready to go out on the SECOND maiden voyage this weekend. After the lift, I needed to adjust the steering limits since the sector binds before the limits engage. Well, the bolt twisted off in the knuckle on the drivers side so, that entire side is torn down to remove the knuckle and extract it. Still haven't gotten that damn bolt out. Repeated cycles of penetrating oil, heat, 2 ruined "ease-outs" (didn't break thank god!) and it still sits there laughing at me. I can actually hear it laughing I tell you! No, stay back, I don't like white jackets... Nooo......

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked, 4" lift, 42" tires
    Some day: massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     

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