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Front wheel bearings

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by bigcat44, Feb 16, 2005.

  1. bigcat44

    bigcat44 Registered Member

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    Just got my 89 Jimmy back from the stealership and they said it needs new front bearings. I am going to do this myself at the on-base repair shop where they have all the tools I will need but what bearings do I need? I got on Napa online and there are about 5 different front bearings??? sorry I know this is a Noob question, I am very mechanically competent but new to 4x4 and GM stuff!! Thanks in advance for any and all help
     
  2. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

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    Which bearings did the dealer say needed replacing? The hub has 2 bearings, an outter and an inner wheel bearing. Then there is another set of bearings inside the differential's 'pumpkin' where the gears are.

    I would think the dealer is talking about the wheel bearings. They are cheap enough, so you should replace all 4 (inner and outter on both driver's and passenger's sides)

    Thomas.
     
  3. spearchucker

    spearchucker 1/2 ton status

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    I'm assuming you still have the stock 10 bolt axle.
    You'll need the inner and outer bearing as previously mentioned, the races (one comes with one of the bearings) the other needs to be purchased seperately, and the seals.
    People on here prefer the Timken bearings and you can get them from Autozone or if you don't have a store near you then you can get them online at Autozone.
    Part # are (need 2 of each):
    LM104949
    JLM104910
    SET45
    471271
     
  4. bigcat44

    bigcat44 Registered Member

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    Sweet! thanks for the P/N yes it is the wheel bearings inner and outer so I will order all of the above 2 ea. Yes I am still running stock front and rear 10blt. Thanks again
     
  5. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    When I do it I only put in new bearings and races. Hardly ever do seals. Just go to a local autozone and ask the guys at the counter. Tell them your info (year/make/model) and they will show you which bearing you need. Like stated above, you are going to need 2 of the LM104949, which I believe are the inner bearings, and 2 of the Set 45 which should be the outer bearings. The outer bearings come with races, but the inners do not. You will have to purchase the 2 inner races separately (they are about $3.99 each). A quick note--the bearing races have to be pressed in. Make sure not to nick or scar the inside of the race as this will cause premature bearing failure. Other than that its easy. Just put everything together the same way it came out.
    -Harrison
     
  6. red77blazer

    red77blazer Registered Member

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    Technician A says:

    You may already know this but these are pointers for anyone who might read this :

    If seals are not that much more just install them too, pack'em with grease first, if the bearings havent been touched in a while the seals may be old and they should be replaced anyway(especially if there is grease on the back of the hub), if they look pretty new and you want to reuse them then after u take out the outer bearing put the nut back on and give the rotor a good pull and it will pop the old seal out nicely.
    if your worried about nicking the races when installing them you can put them in the freezer the night before you do the job and install them when they are cold and it will make it easier. (I just install them warm for reasons of flat rate and they arent hard to get in with a punch and hammer or bearing installation kit, but if your concearned about it, its a tip-good especially for pinion bearings)
     
  7. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    If you are going to tear it down to the wheel bearings you should take it down a little further and make sure you grease your spindle bearings also. Don't replace them if they are in ok shape.

    This would not be a bad time to replace the axleshaft ujoints either since you are already there. It is your call though on that, but I would highly recommend greaseing the spingle bearings at least.

    Harley
     
  8. scrappyk5

    scrappyk5 1/2 ton status

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    make sure the on base shop has the special hub socket you need
    before you start taking everything off.
     
  9. bigcat44

    bigcat44 Registered Member

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    I'm printing this thread and bringing it with me when I do it. As for the tools, they've got em! I'll pick up the parts this weekend at Autozone and go from there. Thanks for all the help, next project: Rebuild the rear differential!!
     
  10. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    That is an excellent piece of advice. I never knew that and I will have to try it next time I install new races. I usually just use a shop press and the old race as the round tool to press the new one in. It works somewhat well, until you push too far and both races get pressed in.:blush:
    -Harrison
     
  11. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    I hope you dont mean a new ring and pinion istall. That is a very complicated and tedious job, and the tools for that are pretty hard to find/expensive. I have done motor installs, trannys, t-cases, lifts, axles, and pretty much everything else on vehicles but never have I had the confidence in myself to do a ring and pinion myself.
    -Harrison
     
  12. bigcat44

    bigcat44 Registered Member

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    Well (here comes the newbie talk again) When the rig was at the dealer they pulled the diff cover and said the gears had some pitting. In my knowledge if the diff was needing some attention it would start making noise? In any regards my rig is not making any noise at all. I was thinking about doing this but I guess I could find someplace to do it for me, I was kind of hoping to be able to save myself some cash and do it along with a locker at the same time. Stealership wanted roughly 1100 for the job. It would be cheaper for me to buy a used diff and install it myslef! What do you think?
     
  13. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    There's some axle shaft bearings in there as well. It's in the knuckle where the shaft passes through. Looks like a little barrel with long needle bearings. You'll see it when you pull it apart.
     
  14. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Yep, that is the spindle bearing I spoke of earlier.

    Harley
     
  15. red77blazer

    red77blazer Registered Member

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    go to a 4x4 shop to get the diff work done but if your not desperate to use the new setup you plan on installing, use the crap out of that one first. I knew a guy who drve down the street with his diff cover off one time and cleaned it up later so there was road dirt in there and he has still has that axle on his truck now. I do not recommend doing that by the way. But what i mean is don't replace the diff if t doesn't make any noise just because the shop that wants you to pay them 1100 to do the job says its needed.


    When i make recommendations at work i have to recommend it based on what i see, and if i can justify the job for any reason the service writer would have a fit if i didn't recommend the job. THERE IS THE SHOPS RECOMMENDATIONS AND THEN THERE IS THE REAL WORLD.
     

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