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Front yoke hitting header pipe

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Jimmydriver, Dec 1, 2005.

  1. Jimmydriver

    Jimmydriver Registered Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Reno, NV
    I use my 1977 GMC Jimmy 4x4 primarily to tow a double axle trailer and ’77 Camaro bracket racer totaling about 4500 lbs. It has a recently rebuilt 406 c.i. small block Chevy in it that’s been warmed over with Vortec heads, performer intake, mild cam, and street headers.

    Upon installing the new engine I found that under moderate braking (without the trailer) the front drive shaft yoke makes contact with a header pipe. The pipe is 1 1/4 ” above the yoke at rest and the front end of the Jimmy drops enough under braking for the contact to happen.

    I’m trying to figure out the least expensive way to eliminate the contact problem as I pretty much drained the bank account doing the engine rebuild.

    The Jimmy has the original two leaf tapered front springs with over 200K miles on them (negative arc). I could install taller bump stops but would only have ~1” of travel for spring flex.

    I found three leaf, tapered, front springs in an ’82 Blazer at the local pick and pull for $70.00. I’m guessing three leaves will help the contact problem just don’t know how much and taller bump stops will still be required.

    Tough Country sells 2” or 3” lift springs for $200.00/pair, taller bump stops will still be required, and lift blocks in the rear to level the truck. Don’t know if the budget can handle this.

    I checked with the only spring shop in Reno, NV where I live and they want $400.00 to re-arc, re-temper, etc. the existing springs, Yikes!

    Are there other stock springs with more lift than I’ve got that will fit? Other ideas?

    Thanks!
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Location:
    Roy WA
    There were stock 3 leaf springs, but they are also negative arch, or at least flat. Not sure where the stock leafs started out when new, but most now have at least a bit of negative arch to them at rest.

    Are your bump stops shot or something? I can't imagine headers hanging down in that location so much to interfere if the clearance is 1.25" resting. That just seems like an AWFUL lot of travel...I can't force my springs to contact the bumpstops by jacking up one wheel with a floor jack...I'll pull the other wheel up before they contact, and the clearance isn't much bumpstop to spring at rest.
     
  3. bigbadchev84

    bigbadchev84 1/2 ton status

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    Location:
    Hermiston, Oregon
    just make your own zerorates.......you can do it for under $20.00 if your u-bolts are long enough
     

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