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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by coopdog, Apr 13, 2006.
Can I replace my 3/8 metal fuel line with a 3/8 rubber line?
Thanks in advance,
They sell rubber hose made for fuel, just make sure that you get fuel injected fuel line if you have fuel injection, its got thicker walls. You can run either or for carb, but the fuel injected line is more expensive.
Got it thanks....I am replacing my mechanical fuel pump with a electiric fuel pump....what should I do with the 1/4" return/vapor line...there is no room/need for it when hooking up my elec. pump??
yes but dont use the store bough by the length fuel emissions hose for fuel injection unless its TBI
TBI and carb are both low pressure so it would be ok
but i wouldnt run a long length of rubber hose if you can help iut
but some 3/8" brake tube and use that whenever possible rather than a ton of hose
to prevent scafing and possible puncture and melting near anything hot, etc
3/8 tubing is dirt cheap and they sell different lengths of it
Yeah,the steel line IS cheap,and safer...10' of fuel injection hose would cost about 20-30 bucks around here,steel lines 5' long are 4 bucks at Autozone..
I go the extra mile and buy a 10' roll of 3/8 copper fuel line at Home Depot on my plow trucks --got tired of rusted steel lines only lasting a few years here due to salt....wish it were legal for brakes,I'd never have to change steel brake lines again!.
My friend has a K20 he only uses to plow the driveway and haul wood and hay around his property..we put copper tubing on the brakes in place of the rotted steel lines,and its worked well for over 10 years..but we would never consider it for a street driven truck..I feel stainless steel fuel and brake lines should be required by law right from the factory..so what if it raises the price of a new car 50 bucks?...it's worth it!..
As for your return line,you can cap off the open end of the hose from the tank with a bolt or dowel and a hose clamp..
Yep, a long run of rubber will burst in short order. It's only made to run short distances.
Got it...and thank you!
So go with the copper over the steel line?
Do I need a fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump? (already have one up by the carb)
so is legality the only reason not to run copper everything?
Copper's a lot softer, not as strong, not rated for the high pressures of hydraulic use. It wouldn't pass the full-on 120cycle tests they have for on-road use. But if you use it with another alloy, like nickle, it does very well. Volvo has been using 90/10 copper/nickle brake lines since the '70's.
But you won't find copper/nickle brake lines at your local auto parts store. What you'll find is cheap hot dip lead tin coated steel lines. I've used these in my yonger days, had them rust through in the second season.
Stainless is the only way to go in my book, especially up here in the rustbelt. I've had my share of bursting brake lines from rust....NEVER again. WHen I bought the C10, I just went to http://www.inlinetube.com (they happen to be about 1 hour from my house), spent $200 and replaced all brake and fuel lines. $200 is very cheap insurance, IMHO.
I'll second that! If you need new brake lines anyway, it only costs $100 extra to upgrade the regular steel lines to stainless, and you'll only have to do it once.
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