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Fuel Tank

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by MR.GADGET, Jan 29, 2002.

  1. MR.GADGET

    MR.GADGET Registered Member

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    My fuel tank needs to be replaced I think! The baffle inside it has come loose and blockes the fuel pump on hills and will not let it get enough fuel! Is there any fix for that or just get a new tank?? Question (2) if I need a new tank any input on plastic or steel JC Whitney has them for 170 steel 200 plastic Which on would be best?? Its An 89 k5 350 FI 4x4 w/31 gal tank. Thanks for any help!!

    IF IT'S NOT AS BIG AS YOU ARE DRIVE OVER IT!!!!!!!!!!
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Never seen the inside of a Blazer tank, but are you SURE its actually come apart? I know others have said one accident and the sloshing fuel can break it, but if you don't take the tank loose, how do you know?

    Don't forget, you *should* get a tank that is fully baffled. TBI and carbureted truck tanks are different, so if I were you, I'd make sure that I was getting one that was a DIRECT replacement, not just one that fits every year, 73-91, because that is not correct.

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
     
  3. aandpman

    aandpman 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Last time I had a tank rust out in my K-10 I went with one from these guys:
    http://www.mtscompany.com
    I plan to do the other side soon, since IT's rusted out too.
    These Poly tanks are really tough and NEVER rust out.....
    Take a look at their website, and e-mail them for price.
    I'm not sure about baffles, though, and I'd ask them about that....

    I think my 20gal saddle tank for K-10 was $112 a couple of year back and THEY paid the shipping.......

    P. eople for
    E. ating
    T. asty
    A. nimals
    85 K10, 305 700R4 33's 3.08's (14bff &amp; D44 in the garage now, w/4.10's ;-)<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by aandpman on 01/29/02 01:27 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  4. Innerpiece

    Innerpiece 1/2 ton status

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    search for a post that I made about 6-9 months ago on the subject ... Once you drop the tank it's pretty easy to (1) look in there with a flashlight (2) stick your hand in there and feel around (be carefull ... if yer hand is meaty the lip of the sender opening is rolled down ... easy to wedge the hand in there but cuts the hell outta you and burns pulling out).

    I just had my fuel pump sh!t the bed right in the middle of the road ... the strainer on the end had gotten fragged after 150K miles and a little piece of the fiberglass lodged in the pump. New one is about $40 but a good 5 hours of simple labor to drop, replace, and put back on.

    enjoy
     
  5. Innerpiece

    Innerpiece 1/2 ton status

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    search for a post that I made about 6-9 months ago on the subject ... Once you drop the tank it's pretty easy to (1) look in there with a flashlight (2) stick your hand in there and feel around (be carefull ... if yer hand is meaty the lip of the sender opening is rolled down ... easy to wedge the hand in there but cuts the hell outta you and burns pulling out).

    If you have a strainer on the end of the pump (you should) (little fiberglass baggy-type thing) then the baffle, even if banging around, shouldn't block the fuel pump

    I just had my fuel pump sh!t the bed right in the middle of the road ... the strainer on the end had gotten fragged after 150K miles and a little piece of the fiberglass lodged in the pump. New one is about $40 but a good 5 hours of simple labor to drop, replace, and put back on.

    enjoy
     
  6. Haulgas

    Haulgas 1/2 ton status

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    I got mine form Rockauto.com for 107.00 And it's steel with the baffle and it's 31 gal.

    IT'S NOT JUST A J**P THING AND I DO UNDERSTAND
     

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