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fusible clutch rings w/ stock axleshafts??

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by 6.2Blazer, Jan 8, 2001.

  1. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I was wondering if the Warn fusible clutch rings would work with the factory axle shafts and would you recommend it.
    I have the factory 30-spline front 10-bolt and have broken a couple of u-joints, and while the yokes on the axles have been distorted some (I would obviously install new axle shafts with the clutch rings), I was still able to install new u-joints and they got me off of the trail.
    Basically, do you think the factory axleshafts are strong enough in that the clutch rings would still fail first??
     
  2. Rob 85K5

    Rob 85K5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    adding to 6.2's question: Can you just upgrade your hubs with the fusible clutch ring or do you have to buy all new hubs?

    Rob 85K5

    <font color=orange>Bleedin' Chevy Orange</font color=orange>
     
  3. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    According to Warn the ring's fuse at about 46,000 lbs./in. +/- 10%
    The Spicer 297 joint is in the 55,000 lbs./in. range.
    There testing was done assuming the wheel where strait(i.e. very low ange in the u-joint) !
    Don't remember the braking point of the axles themsefks, but it is above the joint by like 10,000 lbs./in.
    Price is like $15.00, and as of today no one has any inventory.
    For many application you will not need to buy all new hubs.
    Hope this helps some
     
  4. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I believe the clutch rings only work with Warn's premium hubs......if you have the premium hubs than you can retrofit them with the clutch rings.....if you don't have them you will need to buy the Warn premium hubs.
     
  5. blazer72

    blazer72 1/2 ton status

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    When Steven W and I change mine at the Y2K5 meat last summer I pull of my cheap warn hubs and replaced them with the premo ones we looked at the defrances between the to hubs and found tha the cluch ring was the same! But the bodys were diffreant though very close. We could not tell if the the ring would act the same or not. As for using the ring with stock axels Yes you can but the axel may/should/could be weaker than the ring. The ring was made to be used with the premo hubs, the warn axels and the heave joint. Making the ring the weak point just not by much. When running the duel t-case this become a real point to think of as in most cases a slip of the foor in lowrang can very fastly bring you into a tork rang of 50,000 lbs at the wheel! Not much room to slip up. I've seen Steve Frisbie snap 2 front axels right were they go in to the diff! Just pushing on the gas sofftly with his 700r4 followed by a ORD dubbler! The short side went first he replaced in with warn shafts, then the long side went the next time we were out.

    As for who has them I think ORD always has some there.

    I understand the jeep thing I drive a BLAZER!!

    Ken
     
  6. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Ok, here's the scoop, all the replies above are on the right track. In a factory setup, the stub is weakest, followed by the inner axle, then the joint. This is all in THEORY!
    In the real world, fatigue, manufacturing defects, and steering all rear their heads and just about anything can break. With stock axles, I've broken inners, I've broken ujoints (even with snaprings around them), but never a stub, go figure.
    Running the clutchrings in the hubs will not hurt your performance with a stock set of axles. It could save you some broken parts, but it might not. They're cheap enough that you can try it and see without really messing up.
    They do fit in the standard hubs, Ken's right, we compared them (standard vs prem) and the only real difference seems to be the bolt pattern to hold on the cap. Of course the caps are totally different. As for the external type hubs, the rings work as long as there is a triangle next to the "4x4" or "4x2".
    Pricing is $25 per pair, and we have some in stock. We usually sell 4 at a time so you have a pair and a pair of spares. I make sure I carry a drive gear or the full clutchrings (or both) just in case things get really ugly.
    Ken also brings up a good point for guys running stock axles. FATIGUE ADDS UP! The axles he mentions were used and abused for a long time by Frisbie in a suburban before they went into his K5. I'll post a shot of his after we pulled the parts out, it's pretty impressive. You'll notice that every part is broken or about to break. He really wasn't abusing the truck when it finally snapped, they'd just been used hard for a while before and it showed up all at once. This is a good point to get new axles!
    So, even going to new spicer axles helps, that way there's no fatigue and everything should last as well as can be expected.
    Hope this helps


    [​IMG]
    SW-ORD
     

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