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gearing..how much?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by lebowski, Mar 3, 2005.

  1. lebowski

    lebowski Registered Member

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    About how much do shops charge to install gears front and rear? I want to make sure I have at least an idea before I start calling around. I have no idea what a fair price is. Also, I need your thoughts on this: The fella who had the blazer before me completely rebuilt both 10b axles. Now of course a 10b can never be too good i suppose, but these are in pretty nice shape. New bearings, seals, the works. My driving style for the next few years is Highway and highway alone (it's my college campus cruiser for now). So I'm inclined to keep the 10b's and up the gears to better handle the 35's which I will soon be installing (procomp ats or bfg ats.. I don't know yet). Also, it's a 305/700r4/208 currently with 3.42. Do I go with 4.10s or 4.56? Fuel economy is the key so I'm thinking 4.10s right? Thanks fellas!
     
  2. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    when i looked for a place to do it, there was a place in lansing that would do it for $200 i think. ive learnt to do it my self so i saved my self a bunch right there.

    with a 700r4 and 35"s id go with 4.56.
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Given the 305, I'd go 4.88 at least.
     
  4. xtrmjoe

    xtrmjoe 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 350 700r4 and 4.56 and 37" mtr. I like it for daily driving and weekend wheeling. If you ever plan to wheel it 4.56 is the lowest(numericaly highest) suggested gear for 10 bolts. They are the lowest you can go and still retain some pinion strength, 4.56+ wont retain enough pinion size and they will also make the hubs axles ujoints more prone to breakage because of the mltiplication. With a auto, which helps a lot aginst breakage, I have been able to wheel a lot over the past 5 years with only one u-joint explosion and it was the original spicer unit. Have been over rubicon multiple times, dusy ersham, swamp lake, pismo ext.
     
  5. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    I would say 4.56's. I run the 350/700R4/208 combo with 35's and wish I had went with 4.88's. With a 305 I wouldn't even consider 4.10's.

    Harley
     
  6. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

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    I run a 350/700r4/208 and I went with 4.88's and I wish I had gone 5.13's :) In OD with my 4.88's and 35" when going 65MPH I am at about 2400 RPM.
     
  7. MarcS

    MarcS 1/2 ton status

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  8. lebowski

    lebowski Registered Member

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    well thanks fellas. Sounds like I'll go with 4.56. I wish I knew how to install these myself, however a few hundred bucks per diff. isn't too bad I suppose. I'll hate myself if I put all this cash into regearing these 10b's and I break one the next day. Oh well, gotta take chances.
     
  9. Jonny-K5

    Jonny-K5 1/2 ton status

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    i think you'll get your money out of em. especially if your gonna be highway only for a couple years. around here 200 an axle is damn cheap. the couple shops i got qoutes from wanted about 800 labor for the pair. and thats if i pulled them myself and just brought the axles in. but im in socal where everything costs more.

    i'd go 4.56 for sure. dont even think about 4.10.
     
  10. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    a guy around here wanted $600 to put the gears and locker in the front of my truck and $400 for the detroit in the rear... I just did it myself... dunno if I did it right but nothing is broke yet :cool1:
     
  11. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    I think we charge $675 labor EA. To strip, clean and rebuild and 12 month/12k mile warranty.
     

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