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Get the Lead Out

Discussion in 'The Body Shop' started by jaros44, Apr 8, 2006.

  1. jaros44

    jaros44 1/2 ton status

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    I've searched and can't find any help on lead. I'm getting ready to weld in my new panels, but wanted to use lead to fill in and seal out moisture on seams
    I have all the supplies and thought it would be better than Bondo. I realize I could use seam sealer, but lead should go into the seams, helping it seal out water
    Thoughts, input, advice. Mr Ryoken if your not out skating some place or working OT could you give me some input.
     
  2. gauder

    gauder Banned

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  3. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Its been ages since I leaded, but used to do a fair amount back at the resto shop.. Honestly, some Dynaglass and a skim coat of bondo is nearly as durable if done correctly imo. At least I have no fear of it coming back..

    But here's some thoughts on what I remember..

    First off, I haven't used the leadless that Gauder mentioned, but have heard limited reviews of it that it works well.. Probably has some different tendencies but overall pretty much the same..

    First thing you need to do is thoroughly grind the whole area then tin the area to be filled with a tinning slurry.. Comes in various forms, I'm mostly familiar with the powders.. You mix it with water to a consistency of say, somewhere between chocolate syrup and ketchup... Coat the area to be filled and go an inch or 2 farther out for assurance.. A stiff bristled acid brush works well for this..

    You then take a torch, I generally use a large tipped brazing setup, and heat the area. Keeping the torch a couple inches off the panel.. Basically your getting the solder to melt and stick to the panel. It gets shiny when its melted and done.. Wipe a wet/damp rag over it to get the flux off after its tinned, don't wait too long, should still be warm..

    Then you want to start applying lead.. Warm the area your going to apply it to with the torch, then heat the tip of the lead and mush it on.. Apply heat to the rod end as needed, and a twisting of the rod works well for getting it come off.

    Once you think you have enough lead, you then take a wooden paddle to it to smooth it.. You can just heat the end of the paddle to help it not stick to the lead (just a little, it IS wood).. Some guys have been known to use beeswax on the paddle to help it smooth the lead out without sticking, but you can just heat the wood some and that does it too..

    You apply heat to areas of the lead and drag the paddle over it to smooth it.. It helps if your finishing your "drag" on the edge of the repair, that way you "cut off" the lead. Don't get the lead too hot or it'll just roll off.

    Proper finish is done with a lead file. Most physically demanding, but for certain areas the cross hatching pattern of handfiling will insure good bodywork.. But the lead can be shaped with various tools from grinders to DA sanders.

    It's also a very good idea to metal condition the lead after to insure proper primer adhesion... I like to use a couple pisscoats of zinc before regular primer..

    One of these days i'll find a reason to do some again.. It was always quite fun... Just the speed of fiberglass and mud takes over in a production facility.. Tho if set up and doing it daily, lead is nearly as quick. Just more difficult and taxing when your doing all that filing..
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2006
  4. jaros44

    jaros44 1/2 ton status

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    Great Tips!!
    Sounds like I've got all the bases covered except 2
    Zinc?
    Lead File?

    I have tallow, will this work as well as bees wax? I'll have to look around for the zinc, and you say a lead file has a cross hatch pattern. Do I need a file brush to clean the lead off the file, and do they make different shapes?

    Hey we may have some skating parks over here, gives you a reason to play with lead. I'll send you my Easy Pass and gas money,LMAO Thanks J.
     
  5. gauder

    gauder Banned

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  6. jaros44

    jaros44 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah that was next question, I don't have many brain cells left.
    Thanks for the help. Later J.
     
  7. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    What I was referring to was a metal conditioner.. Basically an acid and neutralizer. Any body shop supply place should have it.. I did a quick search around and didn't see anything online.. what it does is clean the lead, removing any contaminents, and really gives the primer something to bite to. Basically a liquid 2-part wash...

    Then just put a couple piss coats of zinc chromate primer on before you use your regular primer..
    [​IMG]

    Thats one of the biggest issue with leading, proper adhesion.

    And yeah, tallow will work... One guy I knew used it...

    I probably didn't explain the "crosshatching" too well.. What I meant was crosscutting with the file at alternating 45 degree angles to ensure flatness... They are available in flat, 1/2 round, etc.. A good holder is nice to have..

    I didn't realize you where reasonably close... Not only do I have the whole work a million hrs thing, my 1 day off a week is gonna be occupied with getting wraenkings floors, tailpan, etc in... Thats gonna eat up the next month or so... Honestly, I'm having trouble finding time to take a dump these days... :doah: :haha:

    Do you hit the Englishtown swapmeet?
     
  8. jaros44

    jaros44 1/2 ton status

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    Well then you have more time than I do, because there are days when I take a dump I don't have time to wipe:haha:

    Thanks for the info I'll check with my supply house to see if he has those products. Thanks for clarifying the cross hatch. Eastwood has a nice selection of files and handles

    Let me know when Englishtowne is, I went one year and it was great. Since then I keep missing the date.
    Here's a funny story but not at the time. I drove my import to Enghishtowne. It had rained all week, pulled into the parking field without getting to muddy. Went to the show
    Came out and the truck in front of me did burnout in the mud. Needless to say, my shiny black GSX was totally brown... #$@^ four wheelers of which I am now a part!

    Is it OK to roll the primers on, just a little dig LMAO
     
  9. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    it's the 15, 16 and 17 of april.. coming up way quicker than i'd like.. Not sure what kinda "toy money" I'll have...

    Wraenking's got a spot, so we'll be hangin... I'll come right from work on sat prolly.. get there 1ish...
     
  10. jaros44

    jaros44 1/2 ton status

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    Dang I'll be away fishing, is that Easter weekend?
     
  11. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I'm lucky if I know what month it is these days... :doah: :haha:

    I believe its the weekend after Easter...

    edit... ok, I'm an idiot, don't know where i read those dates, but it's the 28th to 30th of april...
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2006
  12. wraenking

    wraenking 1/2 ton status

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    i was right!!!

    lol. when i saw the dates all i was thinking was, hmm, another day for me and paul to get some work done. lol

    by the way, i have my buddy tom getting the weld through primer and the other stuff from the body shop at his work hopefully. ill let you know tomorrow
     
  13. jaros44

    jaros44 1/2 ton status

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    Cool I think I can make it, I have a Paragon trip around that time but I'll look you up Later J.
     
  14. sledheadak

    sledheadak 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    all-metal or metal to metal works well for quarter panel seams.it is a aluminume bases filler that doesnt shrink or absorb water.it does set up real herd so sandinf can be a bitch if let fully cure.
     

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