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getting the drums off of a 14 bolt FF

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by mdevlin, Dec 1, 2003.

  1. mdevlin

    mdevlin Registered Member

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    Hi,
    I installed 14 bolt FF rear on my 84 K5 blazer a while back (still sitting in the driveway /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif ). As my luck would have it, when I installed a set of speed bleeders to make bleeding the brakes "easier", one of the snapped right in half, leaving the bleeder installed in the drum, flush up against the backing plate, and since the speed bleeders have a little one way valve made with a ball bearing, I cant pull it out using an ez-out or something because the ball bearing is impossible to get by. So my next plan was to replace that whole piece of the drum and get a new bleeder, but the problem is, I cant get the damn drum off.

    I saw mention on the a-tron website (rear disc brake conversion) that on the 14 bolt FF, to remove the drum the studs need to be pressed out, is that what is holding me back? the drum turns freely, so it doesn't seem like the brake shoes are putting too much force on the drum to let it slide off, but the damn thing wont budge at all, and it must be held on my something.

    Any help would be appreciated. I think my backup plan involves an acetalyne torch and a rear disc brake conversion, then I should be able to bleed them /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  2. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    To remove the drum, all you have to do is remove the bolts that hold the axle shaft in, remove the axle shaft and the drum/hub assebly comes right off, thats all there is to it /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    The pressing out of the lugs like you read is if you want to remove the drum from the hub /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    To remove the drum, all you have to do is remove the bolts that hold the axle shaft in, remove the axle shaft and the drum/hub assebly comes right off, thats all there is to it /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    The pressing out of the lugs like you read is if you want to remove the drum from the hub /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Well you do have to take out the bearings to take it out.
    Unless it's the newer style which if I am not mistaken is 87 and up. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Here's what you need to do:

    1) Go to the parts store and buy 2 new wheel cylinders for your axle. They'll be about $15 each. You'll need to know if you have 13" or 11" brakes.
    2) Take the 8 bolts out that hold the axleshaft to the hub.
    3) Remove axleshaft - watch out, fluid will leak out.
    4) Remove outer locknut, washer with tangs, and inner locknut with the proper bearing locknut socket.
    5) Grab hub and drum assembly and pull off...careful - them's heavy mutha's. Also, leave the bearings and seal alone - unless you want to replace them.
    6) Disconnect the brakeline from the wheel cylinder on the back side of the backing plate. Then remove the 2 bolts holding the wheelcylinder to the backing plate. If they're not budging, just use a grinder/chisel and grind off the heads of the bolts - you'll have to get new ones at the hardware store then.
    7) Pull out wheel cylinder. This can be done without removing any of the brake components like shoes, springs, etc.
    8) Take the two metal pieces that push on the shoes out of the old wheel cylinder and put them in the new wheel cylinder.
    9) Cram new wheel cylinder into place and bolt to backing plate. Be sure you have the metal pieces that get pushed out by the wheel cylinder properly set on the shoes.
    10) Hook up brakeline, assemble in reverse order of disassembly, and repeat on other side of axle. Make sure to bleed brakes once finished and top off gear oil through fill hole in differential.

    There you go...new wheel cylinders - no messing around with screwed-up bleeders.
     
  5. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Here's what you need to do:

    1) Go to the parts store and buy 2 new wheel cylinders for your axle. They'll be about $15 each. You'll need to know if you have 13" or 11" brakes.
    2) Take the 8 bolts out that hold the axleshaft to the hub.
    3) Remove axleshaft - watch out, fluid will leak out.
    4) Remove outer locknut, washer with tangs, and inner locknut with the proper bearing locknut socket.
    5) Grab hub and drum assembly and pull off...careful - them's heavy mutha's. Also, leave the bearings and seal alone - unless you want to replace them.
    6) Disconnect the brakeline from the wheel cylinder on the back side of the backing plate. Then remove the 2 bolts holding the wheelcylinder to the backing plate. If they're not budging, just use a grinder/chisel and grind off the heads of the bolts - you'll have to get new ones at the hardware store then.
    7) Pull out wheel cylinder. This can be done without removing any of the brake components like shoes, springs, etc.
    8) Take the two metal pieces that push on the shoes out of the old wheel cylinder and put them in the new wheel cylinder.
    9) Cram new wheel cylinder into place and bolt to backing plate. Be sure you have the metal pieces that get pushed out by the wheel cylinder properly set on the shoes.
    10) Hook up brakeline, assemble in reverse order of disassembly, and repeat on other side of axle. Make sure to bleed brakes once finished and top off gear oil through fill hole in differential.

    There you go...new wheel cylinders - no messing around with screwed-up bleeders.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Couldn't have said it better
     
  6. mdevlin

    mdevlin Registered Member

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    thanks a ton for the help. Now for some fun out in the cold on my driveway...

    BTW, I wish chiltons hired people like you to write their books. They failed to mention any of those steps. Your a real life saver.
     
  7. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Also torque the bearing nuts properly......................
     
  8. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    No problem, that's what we're all here for. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    CK5 - an interactive repair manual. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     

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