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GM techs engine removal tips

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by merace19, Jan 7, 2007.

  1. merace19

    merace19 1/2 ton status

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    I only want info on the 88 and up engines. I had a mother of a time gettting a 5.7 out of a wrecked 93 blazer. The damn bolts/studs on the transmission about killed me to get them out. Well now this same engine is going into a 88 gmc truck with a 305. Any tips on getting the engine out that i may have over looked? I pulled the 5.7 complete everything but a/c compressor. I got to pull the 305 and install the 5.7. I saved the harness on the 93 incase someone needs it.
     
  2. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    there is no reason to "want only info on the 88 up engines" this stuff is basically the same on those trucks. My method? Ratcheting wrench or REALLY REALLY long extensions and an impact. I've used both methods.

    I can't remember, does the trans crossmember sit inside the frame rails or below them? If it is below, consider unbolting it from the frame, put a jack under it first of course. Then lower the jack down. You should be able to see up to the top bolts. With the aid of aforementioned REALLY long extensions and a 3/8" impact you should be able to wing them out with little issue. Remove the distributor first or else you will smash it against the firewall.

    If the crossmember is inside the framerails, unbolt it, jack UP as much as you can. Watch you aren't crunching anything underneath of course. Then use a ratcheting wrench and ratchet them off from under the hood. I've done it both ways, its no fun, but it gets done.

    Option 3: Remove the engine and trans as an assembly. Remove the trans, bolt it to the new engine, throw them back in as an assembly. I think one of the other options will work better for you.

    Option 4: If you have a lift, do a cab lift, haha.

    I just did an engine job in a 2003 2500HD with an 8.1L. I used method #2. Ratcheting wrench on the upper 3 most bolts, and extension and impact on the other 4. You'd be amazed how similar some the newer stuff still is.
     
  3. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    Once you've taken the hood off, you can stand over those top engine-to-trans bolts. IMHO its easiest to take the engine out without trans, especially if you have a T-case. Thats also the factory method. Once everything is disco'd, take the front wheels off and drop your truck down to the axle.:D
     
  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Either a VERY short 9/16" box end wrench, or a short ratcheting box end wrench will make (short?) work of those tranny bellhousing bolts. The other trick is a flex coupling, and a whole bunch of extensions on a ratchet, and hit them from the transmission side, as above mentioned. I have a hard time lining up the top bolts with the socket like this, so the short wrench works best for me. Just sit on the fender and reach over.

    Either lifting the back of the engine up or dropping it a bit (if possible without bashing the distributor, pull the cap might get you some more room) can allow a bit more easy access.
     
  5. merace19

    merace19 1/2 ton status

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    Only reason was concerned with 88 and newer is they seem to have more attachments hold wires that are bolted on. Why in the hell would they bolt the harness to the trans studs. The nuts to remove the harness took forever to get loose. They never really loosened untill they fell off. Then the trans studs super tight and bam super loose. I am going to try the trans drop or raise next time. I removed the 4 bolts holding the transfer case on i was going to remove trans and all but the harness was attached and i was affraid i would break it. Oh well 305 out and 350 in. Does the 350 have the same exhaust as the 305?
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Depends on year. If the manifolds look the same, yes the same exhaust. There were two styles of exhaust (essentially) the log style over the plugs, and the under the plug style.
     
  7. MaxPF

    MaxPF 1/2 ton status

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    Yup, my 91 Blazer was thye same way. P!$$ed me off. Needless to say all that stuff is getting attached to the firewall before I put the motor back in. The reason it was done that way was for ease of assembly at the factory :doah:
     
  8. merace19

    merace19 1/2 ton status

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    Yes they are both under the plugs. The 5.0 has small exhaust. The 5.7 in the 5.7 blazer is huge, way bigger than the 5.0. Well if no one buys the truck before the weekend it will have a 5.7 and turbo 400 in it. The trans shifts so good to so i cannt wait.
     
  9. merace19

    merace19 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the tips. I more than likely will be installing it this weekend. I got me some of those racheting wrenches so i can have more room rermoving those bolts on the trans.
     
  10. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    IIRC, they may not fit. The bolt head is kinda close to the casting. Not much room other than for a socket.:confused:
     
  11. merace19

    merace19 1/2 ton status

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    Your right. I hate Chevy Engineers. At least they could have a program to give owners needing to remove stuff like this a tool for free....
     
  12. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    Oops, I stopped too soon. What I end-up doing is with hood off, even crank up the trans/T-case to get more clearance at the firewall, and I use a box-end wrench. I get all but the 2 on each side (from below).
     

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