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Going though a 14BOLT FF

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by CHEVY 4WD, Jun 6, 2003.

  1. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    Ok say you just bought a FF what should you do? as far as looking at bearings, seals, and anything else? and HOW do you do it?
     
  2. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  3. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    IMHO i think unless you know when the bearings and seals were done last and how the axle was taken care of you should just replace all of them. It does get expensive, but then you don't have to tear it down later to repair something. Buy a GM truck manual most of them have pretty good pictures and instructions. I just did every bearing and seal in mine so PM me with any more questions if ya need to

    -Brian
     
  4. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    If you're cheap like most of us, only replace the bearings if they need it. If you replace a bearing, replace the race that goes with it. Replace the seals whether they look bad or not. I was able to loosen the spindle nuts with a screwdriver on my FF14 and didn't need any special tools, except to torque the pinion nut back and for setting up the gears. Take it apart and put it back just like it comes apart. If you are unsure, do it one side at a time. If you have specific questions about how it is put together, post them.
     
  5. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    If it were me......I'd go through and replace everything.

    That's what I did (when it WAS me!) and the costs DO add up, but there's no better time than when it's already pulled out and sitting on the shop floor. One of the great things about going 1-Ton, is if you rebuild everything correctly the first time....you shouldn't ever have to go back in there (at least not for a LONG time!)

    If you're going to do it....do the gears, the locker, the disk brake swap.....all of it!! That way when it's installed and done, it's DONE!!! Move on to the next item on your truck and never worry about going back into that axle.



    Just my $.02
     
  6. tarussell

    tarussell 1/2 ton status

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    I vote for replace all the bearings/races seals .
    I am going through a CUCV 14 Bolt right now and am replacing all bearings and seals- pinion nut/crush sleeve and pinion yoke - just so I know that all is well . The axle was in good shape to begin with but I want reliability out of my truck so I would rather rebuild it in my garage at a time that I have set aside instead of repairing it under pressure. If the funds exist than think of it as preventive maintainance .
    Good luck , Tom
     
  7. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    just replace all the seals... check out the bearings.. if they arent scored or bound up... leave them......clean everything up.. and be good to go
     
  8. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    i got lucky and scored a set of brand new bearings for the hubs in the wanted forum here. 55 dollars to my door. i just bought hub bearings for my D60(they are the same bearings) and WOULD have spend about 80 dollars for the bearings and seals. got them for free with a bit of trading to a local tranny shp. you will need a hub socket Torque wrench, seal puller and a seal/bearing installer comes in handy. punches and drifts are needed as well.
    my advice to you is this. since you have the axle you might as well buy the chiltons book for the truck it came out of. you will need it later. as for all the torques yes they can be found here. but i have 4 chiltons books for my 74 blazer. i only need 3 as the one i bought that has the D60 stuff in it has the 14 bolt stuff. then i have one for the blazer stuff and one for the TBI stuff.
    i will be carring them all in my truck on the trail. along with the needed tools for the alxes.
    anywhoo, im getting off topic now. if you needa ny help PM me and i can try lending an internet hand.
    Grant
     
  9. u2slow

    u2slow 1/2 ton status

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    You can check for problems without taking very much apart at all.

    Pinion:

    Grab the yoke and see if it wiggles (usually the pinion seal leaks too). If it does you will need pinion bearings - possibly a gearset if the "nub" on the end of the pinion has deteriorated. Sometimes just the pinion seal leaks. You can replace the seal alone if you are very careful to re-install the pinion nut to the original tightness. You will either have to mark the threads of count the turns. I know it sounds a little dicey, but its a common boneyard procedure and has good success when done correctly.

    Carrier bearings:

    Use a pry-bar or large screwdriver to lever the carrier side-to-side in the housing. There should be no movement. If there is, the carrier bearings are shot. Gears are short-lived when the carrier bearings go, so inspect carefully. Carrier bearings are pressed onto the differential case. Sometimes the bearing and race seize together on failure. Should the bearing spin on the case... better look for a new differential case (both halves, they're matched). Should the race spin in the housing.... better look for a new housing.

    Hubs:

    Always change the hub seals. They cheap insurance against gear lube ruining your new brake job. Pack the backside of the seals with vaseline so the tension spring doesn't pop off with you're tapping them in. Vaseline dissolves into the gear oil unlike some greases. When you have the seals out, you will be able to inspect the inner bearing and race for wear. You will usually see a dark band on the spindle where each bearing rides. If you can catch your fingernail on this band, that is indication the bearing has spun - usually requiring a new spindle end or replacement housing.
    Between the spindle and one hub bearing you can forecast the condition of the remaining bearing. I have yet to find any FF axle where the spindle and inner bearing were fine, but the outer was shot. Usually a wheel end wears or is contaminated similarly.

    Spiders:

    There are "windows" on the conventional open differential where you can see the corners of the spiders. A shot of brake cleaner or degreaser and a flashlight will let you see if there's any pitting. Missing teeth will be obvious. Spiders normally wear before the side gears because of their small size.
     

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