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Good ideas for rear floor

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Truckfan2, Sep 26, 2000.

  1. Truckfan2

    Truckfan2 1/2 ton status

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    I've got an '89 Jimmy and of couse the floor is rotted. What is the best metal to put back in it? I was thinking of Diamond plate but its expensive and how would I weld it to sheet metal? I was thinking of a wooden type of bed like the old chevy p/u's had. How about metal for the holes where the seatbelts were? I need some good ideas... pics would help. I want something that will keep elements out and look show worthy while being functional. Thanks

    Have been stuck (once) as of 8/12/00
    "(2H) Where's all the mud?.(4H)...(4L)..(4H)... oh crap"
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Mother Nature is forcing me to address this area of my truck a little sooner than I wanted to. I am going to use 14 ga. steel checker plate, with 1x1 HSS steel tube stiffeners under the floor. I'll have to do it in 3 pieces to avoid having to buy a sheet 5' wide, but welding it won't be a problem.
    If you are talking about the front seat belt holes, I formed up some 10 ga steel. Dimensions - 12" x 20" I then bent it with one 'leg' being 8" and the other 12" kind of like an angle iron. The 8" leg replaced the rotted seat belt hole area, and the 12" leg became the corner of the floor just in front of the rear seat. Before I welded it in I drilled a 5/8 hole approximately where the old seat belt mounts were and welded a 1/2" coarse grade 8 jamb nut on the backside.
    Now I have a strong (.133" thick) corner floor area, and a good strong seat belt mount, and I can always weld a roll bar to this corner with out worrying about it.

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  3. mudfanatic

    mudfanatic 1/2 ton status

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    this is a bolt in floor, order each side from JC Whitney for $79 per side and have an original floor, if you want a rustproof floor then get JC whitneys floor then paint it with POR15 before you install it.
    Dan

    <font color=red>get involved with land issues or lose the land</font color=red>
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Will this floor work for the newer style floor? Mine only has bolts along the front of the floor. Do you have a web address for JC Whitney?

    Thanks
    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  5. 87Blzr

    87Blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Don't know if its still available but a couple years ago I bought a whole new rear floor from GM. Definately easier than fabricating, its GM and to me the original look is important for something like that. No worry about the tailgate hinges not being in the right location or anything. Everything went together so well with original GM

    87 K5 Siverado, 68 SS 396 Camaro
     
  6. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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  7. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Look under the truck, thats where the rest of the bolts are where the bed meets the walls. It's't not all bolt in but most of it is but they got some hell sealent that will make you think it's welded. If you just have spot holes and not into any major structure Jc Whitney sells floor section for the trucks that has the same ribs at the Blazers and you can cut out sections and weld in fresh. The ribs are important and unless your putting 3/16 plate that would be very heavy you want to use the rib style verse anything flat.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/
     
  8. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    The truck repair section only matches the center ribs and not the side ribs on the Blazer floor. There is a difference in the ribbings length as you get away from center. I ended up making my own repair section for the sides.
     

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