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got axles with yokes removed / reassembly?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BowtieBlazer, Jan 22, 2003.

  1. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    I got some axles from a friend and he had removed the yokes...the gears shims shafts etc are still all intact all the way to the outters on both front and rear axles... (10 bolts)....I am going to be putting these axles under my truck after I clean them up, change ball joints swap rotors drums brakes over from one to another...since the pinion nut was never marked before being removed how should I go about retightening the yokes down.... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  2. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    BTT /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  3. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    I am not a GM engineer and I'm sure there is a better way.
    But.....I'd torque them down real good, maybe 150 ft lbs, and put red loc tite on it and be done with it.
    -- Mike
     
  4. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    The right way to do it is to remove the carriers, install new crush washers, then tighten the pinion nuts until you have the correct preload for used bearings. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  5. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    so not the avg joe job.... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  6. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    It's not really that hard if you can find a beam style torque wrench that measures in the 0-50 in/lbs range. Yank the diffs, while keeping track of the bearing shims so that you can put them back exactly where they came from. Then install the new crush washers and start the tightening process. You'll need a good service manual for your particular diffs to get the correct torque settings. You have to measure the amount of torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion shaft. There is a torque value for new bearings and a different one for used bearings. Then you just keep tightening the pinion nut just a fraction, then test the rotational torque, tighten a fraction, test again, until you have the rotational torque set within the acceptable range.
     
  7. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    Any direction you could point me in towards the tools and manual? /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif

    I have thought about pulling the carrier and figured if i kept the shims from each side seperate and remembered which side they came from i'd be alright when I slapped them back in... I have heard the job wasn't too hard just didnt have a clue as to what I could and couldn't do before causing the pinion to start chewing the ring gear. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  8. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Finding (and affording) the in/lbs torque wrench is the hard part. Snap-On sells 'em, but they're something like $200. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Check out http://www.randysringandpinion.com/yukon-instructions.pdf for some good info on setting things up. I have GM factory service manuals for all of my rides, but they aren't cheap. I'm not sure of the Haynes or Chiltons manuals will be very helpful or not. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     

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