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Got Shackle angle?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 84_Chevy_K10, Feb 28, 2004.

  1. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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  2. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  3. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    nice, sooner or later I need to stop being lazy and do that already.
     
  4. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    How long are those springs, they look REAAALLY long.
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Tomorrow, Brakes and steering and hopefully I can get started on the rear.

    Observations:

    High speed steel drill bits suck. Always buy Cobalt bits, or at least the titanium ones.

    3/8" steel is much thicker than you thought

    Drilling a 2" hole in your frame with a 3/8" drill sucks big time

    If you do what is mentioned above your drill may get so hot that you can't hold onto it

    IMO, required tools for this job:

    Basic hand tools
    1/2" Milwaukee or similar quality drill, not a 3/8" Dewalt
    Air hammer and sharp chisels and a punch bit to remove stock mount.
    BFH for good measure
    2" hole saw and HD arbor
    3/8" Cobalt bit for frame holes
    1/2" Cobalt bit for ORD bushings or 7/16" for stock style/other aftermarket
    Cutting oil
    Patience
    Diet Coke box to make template of shackle mount (that's what I used) /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    How long are those springs, they look REAAALLY long.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    They're 48 or so eye to eye and 53 if you measure the total circumference. Just regular 6" superlift springs.

    The reason they might look so long is that the entire point of this post was to pimp the fact that I moved my spring shackle hanger forward to improve shackle angle. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Oh and I went with 7" long shackles. The springs will hit the body mount before they hit the frame at this point.
     
  7. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]


    The reason they might look so long is that the entire point of this post was to pimp the fact that I moved my spring shackle hanger forward to improve shackle angle. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif



    [/ QUOTE ]

    I understand that, just looked really long for some reason.
    Better shackle angle, I thought they were supposed to be straight up and down, could you explain? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  8. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    I haven;t heard too much about this so I'm assuming it so you can have better droop? Edumacate me /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  9. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    http://www.akfabshop.com/alaskaoffroad/suspension.htm

    Scroll way down to the bottom. That, and Baddog/sled_dog are where I got the idea.

    Basically from what I understand this will make my dynamic spring rate lower so essentially make my springs feel softer than they really are.

    The other basic function is to re-engineer a factory screwup that is even more of an issue with lift springs that have a tendancy to be a different length than stock springs for whatever reason.

    Also I obviously needed a longer shackle to hook up my springs to begin with, and because I was already messing with it, I got out the tape measure and engineered it so that the springs will hit the body mount before they hit the frame. By then my truck will probably be flexed either until it's out of shock travel even with the Ford towers that I'll have installed shortly, or on its side again, or both. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    I prefer to run 52's up front, cause I have a ton of compression and droop and I know having that big ass hole right there cant be good for an already weak frame. But yes Esteban, more droop, better ride and it actually makes the spring a tad bit softer because the shackle doesnt have to change the way its moving on compression.
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I saved the two pieces that I cut from the frame so I can weld them in the holes at a later date.
     
  12. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    there is an article on www.echobit.com straight up and down is not the optimum shackle angle, its just the most common. I really don't know why people don't worry more about shackle angle.
     
  13. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    OIC /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  14. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    what size were the stock holes?
    need a few more minutes on those shackles with a grinder to take the scale off and round the corners
    then prime and paint them
    I really like the colour of 'Cummins Bluke'
    other then that tiny frame your images look very familiar
     
  15. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    The stock holes have to be 2".

    That's what I made the new holes and the hole saw will fit through the old holes. The old ones could even be just a hair over 2".

    Tiny frame. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif Hopefully this one gets me by, if not the K30 is still in the backyard, I could just cut it down and shorten it instead of putting the cab on this frame. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  16. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    just do it now and save yourself the hassle later /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif
     
  17. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    how much heftier is the 1 ton frame?
     
  18. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    It's 2" taller.
     
  19. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    It's the same thickness but 2" taller in the under cab/forward bed area.

    [Edit: That will teach me to open up several windows and then reply to one without refreshing...)
     

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