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Got stuff for oil change today, questions

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Hathaway, May 29, 2001.

  1. Hathaway

    Hathaway 1/2 ton status

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    Ok so I went and got the stuff for my oil change today. I know the guy that works at the mech shop so I just told him whatever he though was good stuff was good for me. So here's what I ended up with...

    5quarts of Valvoline All-Climate 10W-40, I've always used 10W-30 in my other cars, whats the deal with the 40 weight stuff?

    8(DUH) NGK Vpower Resistor Type Spark plugs and the gap on them is supposed to be .035, that sound correct?

    Oil filter is a Purolator Premium Plus, I formerly used Fram in my Honda and I think I've got a quaker state in my blazer (jiffy lube did my oil last time)

    So does this stuff all sound ok? Should I replace my plug wires while I'm in there? Cap/rotors anything? Also how tough is it to rebuild a carb? I've just got the stock carb and I THINK its a Quadrajet, not 100% on that but I'm pretty sure. anything else I should do to get it running well? Have my timing checked? Anything along those lines? Thanks in advance

    Dan, '86 K5, 5.0L v8, NP208, TH700R4, open 10bolts front and rear, 3.43gearing, K&N filter, 31x10.50R15 Trailhandlers
     
  2. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    Dan,
    I don't know about the others on site, but oil and filter aren't a huge deal. I get Marathon oil at 89 a quart 10-30 and fram filter. I change every 3000 and engine still runs good at 211XXX, no rebuild. Whatever plugs you got, check and gap them anyway. Get a leaf feeler type gauge (not the little round one with multiple gaps). You can buy a gapping tool or just do it by hand. Either way is successful. Cap and rotors are probably a good investment and wires, if you just bought K5 and don't know what shape it is in. This will allow you to look at how she is operating after you take care of it. A timing light is good too, to adjust timing for best cycle. LOL and enjoy being a motorhead.


    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  3. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Rebuilding a carb isn't that hard, shouldn't take too lnog, as long as there are no problems...but you know how that is....

    90K5

    See my truck at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502</A>
     
  4. CV202

    CV202 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds like good stuff to me. Check the cap, rotor and wires. Replace as needed. Never rebuilt a carb though...

    Why do people keep calling it a Bronco!!!!! [​IMG]
     
  5. BlazinRojo

    BlazinRojo 1/2 ton status

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    Well, lets see. First off, the W in 10W-40 doesn't refer to weight, rather winter (change in viscosity during the year). I've always used 10W-40 in my Blazer, however newer cars call for 10W-30 or even 5W-30.
    Pretty much any oil is fine, I've always used FRAM filters and never had any problems. Can't offer any other advice on that.
    A quick way to check for a Q-jet is to pull off the air cleaner assembly and look at the top of the carb. If the barrels in the rear are much larger than those in the front, then you are the proud owner of a Q-jet. Since you have an 86, its probably a E4ME Q-jet which is electronically controlled (maybe, check for wires attaching to the Q-jet.) If it is E4ME and you are still smog-controlled if at all, your best bet is to rebuild. However, rebuilding a carb, especially a Q-jet is very confusing and I wouldn't recommend it if this is your first rebuild. Once its apart and in dozens of pieces, it will be a pain to get it back together. It will be expensive, but I would pay money to have it rebuilt
    If you have a non-computerized Q-jet, look into an edelbrock Q-jet (only if you have $$ to burn).

    Shutup Brain or I'll stab you with a Q-Tip - Homer J. Simpson
     
  6. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Well I swear by Valvoline and for plugs I like either AC Delco or NGK's... I stick w/ wix or acdelco filters... although I doubt for a stock rig there is gonna be much real concern there. Plugs wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter and checking the timing are all recommended... I'll also note a transmission service (filter and drop pan/fluid) and a coolant flush are also well advised. It also wound be a good idea to drain and fill the t-case w/ the trans service. While you're under there might as well see what the diff fluids look like too. That should about cover it... plenty of stuff to do [​IMG]

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</A>
     
  7. bandit

    bandit 1/2 ton status

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    i swear by John deere oil the 10-40 thats best oil you can get stuff really clen to parts


    AJ
    Soon to wheelin spot near you
    Project Harvey[​IMG]
     
  8. klier

    klier Registered Member

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    Hey,

    I usually use Valvoline Oil and the Napa Gold Oil Filters... I try to avoid FRAM at all costs... This is after reading a very interesting article on the following website about a year ago...

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html>http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html</A>

    It'll probably be worth your time to see how cheaply some of these filters are made ... the author makes a comment on his discussion page that FRAM filters, because of the way they are constructed, can leak internally. This will make the filter work as well as, well, no filter at all...

    Check it out! Any comments?


    Brian Klier
    '86 K5 Blazer
    [image]http://www.faribault.k12.mn.us/brian/truckproject/widerisbetter.jpg[/image]
     
  9. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    Take the 10-40 back and get 10-30. Something about the stuff they used to get it to 10-40 isn't very agreeable. Also, I use Valvoline and Napa Gold filters. I like ac delco, NGK, or Rapid fires for plugs. [​IMG]



    <font color=orange>hAS ANYONE SEEN MY cAPSLOCK KEY?</font color=orange>


    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html>http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html</A>
     
  10. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    I have allway's used 10-40 and never had a porblem with it...The motor I have now is a 96 crate from the dealer. That's what they recommended,and that's what I have used since 96.

    Check the cap for wear,and also check the wires for dirty ends..


    <font color=blue>My rig </font color=blue> <A target="_blank" HREF=http://community.webshots.com/user/vwryda>http://community.webshots.com/user/vwryda</A>
     
  11. slider79blazer

    slider79blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I use 10w -40 in the summer becuase the 40 is thicker for the hot temps and 10w-30 in winter so it flows better on cold starts. the "W" just means winter.

    whats a 4 letter word for farm wagon? (ford) [​IMG]
     
  12. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    I run 15W50 in mine since I do alot of high speed runs across the desert, 10W40 would be perfectly fine for anything else. Far as filters go, I favor either Napa Gold/Wix or Baldwin, and AC or Champion plugs.

    I'm not creative enough to comeup with a new signature [​IMG]
     
  13. Hathaway

    Hathaway 1/2 ton status

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    Well thanks for all the replies. I'm gonna stick with the 10w-40 after hearing the replies. The purolator sounds like a good pick and NGK from what I've heard from you guys sound like good plugs. So it sounds like I done good [​IMG]

    NOW, what kinda of plug wires should I get? What should I do about the cap/rotor/etc etc? Should I rebuild my stock Qjet or should I save my pennies for awhile and pick uip a Jet Qjet or an Edlebrock or the like? Should I have my timing checked? Any other advice you guys can give on routine maintinence is greatly appreciated. Man I love this site [​IMG]

    Dan, '86 K5, 5.0L v8, NP208, TH700R4, open 10bolts front and rear, 3.43gearing, K&N filter, 31x10.50R15 Trailhandlers
     
  14. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    Okay...look here:
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.anaheimrepair.com/faq9.php>http://www.anaheimrepair.com/faq9.php</A>

    There is a reason why GM does NOT recommend 10w-40. [​IMG]. It breaks down too fast.



    <font color=orange>hAS ANYONE SEEN MY cAPSLOCK KEY?</font color=orange>


    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html>http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html</A>
     
  15. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    I'd do the maintance I listed above... fuel filter and stuff. AC Delco is good for the fuel filter, cap and rotor. I like Taylor plug wires. I would check the timing. I like the edelbrocks for ease of tuning and whatnot over dealing w/ the quads, buyt there is nothing really wrong w/ them at all. Great fro street performance and milage. Would be cheaper to rebuild it.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</A>
     
  16. Hathaway

    Hathaway 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, so I'll get on the fuel filter, I'll give rebuilding the Qjet a try and if that doesn't work I'll start saving pennies for a new Edelbrock. Taylor plugs wires, gotcha.

    As for the 10W-40, I still think I'm going to give it a try. Next oil change I'll go back to 10W-30 but if it does break down and seize the engine it gives me reason to get a 350 [​IMG].

    Thanks again everyone, you guys/gals are a HUGE help.

    Dan, '86 K5, 5.0L v8, NP208, TH700R4, open 10bolts front and rear, 3.43gearing, K&N filter, 31x10.50R15 Trailhandlers
     
  17. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    As far as wires/cap/rotor, <font color=red>AVOID ACCEL!!!!<font color=black> Quite a few people here have had BAD experiences with their crap, err, I mean parts.

    Oil--I prefer to avoid oils with a big viscosity split (15W-50, 0W30, etc.) because it takes too many chemical additives to get the viscosity to do that trick. Of course, full synthetics are another story...

    Filters--I read that filter survey a while back and swore I'd never use another Fram product again. Purolator PureOne or ACDelco Gold is what I use now.

    <font color=red>Click those banners and help support CK5!!<font color=black>
    [​IMG] Semper Maintenance!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.jarheadsk5.coloradok5.com>http://www.jarheadsk5.coloradok5.com</A>
     

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