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gov loc weakness

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by chevyjeff, Apr 23, 2004.

  1. chevyjeff

    chevyjeff 1/2 ton status

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    I am replacing my 10 bolt w/ a 14 bolt s.f. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gifThe thing has a gov loc in it /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif and I was wondering what is the main factor that causes the gov locs to break. Is it high rpms when it engages, lack of proper lubrication, to big of tires, or all of the above. Its going in my mall rated d.d. w/ 35" a.t. tires and 4.10's behind a 300 hp 350 that will see occasional mud and trail use but no extream crawling.
     
  2. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    i think its all of the above. i have one im my 3/4 ton (14bsf) never had a problem, yet. my truck is stock though : /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  3. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    From what I have heard the real gov bomb is the 10 bolt with the gov lock. The 14b gov lock seems to be pretty sturdy. Based on the design I would say the biggest problem is when there is wheelspin from a tire in open air and the locker engages throwing a lot of torsion stress on the axle with traction. Especially if you have a heavy right foot and a high torque motor.
     
  4. Blazer1970

    Blazer1970 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    From what I have heard the real gov bomb is the 10 bolt with the gov lock. The 14b gov lock seems to be pretty sturdy. Based on the design I would say the biggest problem is when there is wheelspin from a tire in open air and the locker engages throwing a lot of torsion stress on the axle with traction. Especially if you have a heavy right foot and a high torque motor.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    This is true. It is not so much the Gov-lock, but the 10 bolt that is the problem. I have seen the same thing happen a couple of times. You are on the road (paved), and you pull away from a stop sign or light where you have to make a right turn. When you stomp it and turn at the same time, the inner tire gets really light, or lifts off the pavement completely. That tire then spins, and gets up some good speed which engages the locker. Since there is no way that the outer tire is going to spin at this point (as you are making a turn with a little throttle), the locker engages HARD, and it blows up the 10 bolt. My brother did it, and it broke one of the carrier bearing cap bolts. We pulled the cover before it grenaded, but if you drove very far, you would get a pile of broken parts when you pull the cover. All we got was half of a bearing cap bolt. The cap was just flopping around on one loose bolt.
     
  5. chevyjeff

    chevyjeff 1/2 ton status

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    Cool looks like all I have to do is not spin to hard around a corner or freewheel one wheel at max rpm and my gov bomb will live happily ever after /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  6. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    It's the carrier thats weak, not the whole rear. The carrier itself is what breaks.
     
  7. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    It's the carrier thats weak, not the whole rear. The carrier itself is what breaks.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Exactly /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif The hole you put the guts(opening in case)is HUGE compared to open axles. When things wear out and the loose parts rotate around and grab the case, kiss it goodbye /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I am replacing my 10 bolt w/ a 14 bolt s.f. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gifThe thing has a gov loc in it /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif and I was wondering what is the main factor that causes the gov locs to break. Is it high rpms when it engages, lack of proper lubrication, to big of tires, or all of the above. Its going in my mall rated d.d. w/ 35" a.t. tires and 4.10's behind a 300 hp 350 that will see occasional mud and trail use but no extream crawling.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I beat the snot out of my truck for three years with 35" M/Ts and then for a while with 38.5" TSLs with a 14 bolt SF in the rear and a gov loc.

    Now I have a 14 FF and detroit but I only installed it because I didn't want to have a bigger front axle than rear and I prefer the peace of mind of a full floating rear axle. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Gov loc isn't ideal but it's better than an open diff.
     
  9. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    I am replacing my 10 bolt w/ a 14 bolt s.f. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gifThe thing has a gov loc in it /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif and I was wondering what is the main factor that causes the gov locs to break. Is it high rpms when it engages, lack of proper lubrication, to big of tires, or all of the above. Its going in my mall rated d.d. w/ 35" a.t. tires and 4.10's behind a 300 hp 350 that will see occasional mud and trail use but no extream crawling.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I beat the snot out of my truck for three years with 35" M/Ts and then for a while with 38.5" TSLs with a 14 bolt SF in the rear and a gov loc.

    Now I have a 14 FF and detroit but I only installed it because I didn't want to have a bigger front axle than rear and I prefer the peace of mind of a full floating rear axle. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Gov loc isn't ideal but it's better than an open diff.

    [/ QUOTE ]



    glad to know those 14sf hold up...




    justin
     

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