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gov lock maybe?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by option#9, Oct 22, 2003.

  1. option#9

    option#9 Registered Member

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    This could be a long one; not sure yet.

    Couple of weeks ago I was in my driveway going around a corner and it felt like the rear end was locked up, not slipping a bit. I got out checked the fluid( it was thick as gum) backed up a little bit pulled forward a couple of times and it seemed to unlock. I was thinking that I should really pull the cover and take a look but we were moving, getting married and going on a honeymoon, it slipped my mind. Today I'm driving home from work and notice a whining sound seemed to be coming from the rear end. I stopped by the auto parts store to pick up some spark plugs on my way and the whine wasn't as loud when I got back in. I decided it was definatly time to take the cover off and take a look when I got home. But just before I got there I was driving up a hill from a stop and 90 degree left, and the rear end made some aufull clunking sounds and then stopped. I was only 1/4 mile from my house so I kept going and parked it. I removed the cover finally to find dripping water and sludge, kind of light brown, no metal shavings. Are you supposed to be able to scrape it out with a screwdriver?

    I'm rambling, fuel injection went south on the Honda day before yesterday; don't really know how I'll get to work tomorrow so beer sounded like the way to go.

    I don't think my profile has the specs on my rear, pretty sure it's stock with the gov lock behind a built 454 and turbo 350. I'm new to K5's but that doesn't seem like a good combo to me. I was planning to replace the rear just not so soon, guess some suggestions would be great.

    That was a little long.
     
  2. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I don't think the gov lok is your problem, it's the water and sludge. Probably ruined the rearend. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  3. option#9

    option#9 Registered Member

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    That's what I was thinking, I guy can dream though can't he?
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Put good oil in and take it easy on her.
     
  5. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    if it is a 14bolt ff you can add a detroit locker for aroud 300.00
     
  6. option#9

    option#9 Registered Member

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    Anyone have good ideas for flushing out the grease that's in there? And how about some recomendations for replacement fluid? It's a stock 10 bolt with the factory locker.

    The Haynes manual calls for limited slip additive added to the specified lubricant which I am assuming is the 80w GL5 specified for the US diff. When they say limited slip they are talking about the factory locker aren't they?
     
  7. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Anyone have good ideas for flushing out the grease that's in there? And how about some recomendations for replacement fluid? It's a stock 10 bolt with the factory locker.

    The Haynes manual calls for limited slip additive added to the specified lubricant which I am assuming is the 80w GL5 specified for the US diff. When they say limited slip they are talking about the factory locker aren't they?

    [/ QUOTE ]There is a big difference between a locker and limited slip. a limied slip has disks like clutch plates that will slip as needed to provide traction as needed, A locker has gears that will lock both axles to the differential so both wheels provide traction when needed.A locker has no plates to slip.No really a technical description,but hpoe this will help....
     
  8. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I had a gov-loc....lock-up on me....and do the same thing..
    clunk...after a couple turns...

    When I took off my cover...I had teeth from the gov-loc itself...sitting in the bottom of the housing..they were ground-up by the ring & pinion.. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    I would jack-it up..with cover off..move the axle shafts and yoke...and see if you hear or see anything..
     
  9. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    govlock is a limited slip/locker style locker, so it has clutches and gears/counterweights.. mine went bye bye with a 350...so good luck making it last behind a bbc
     
  10. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    A gov loc is an interesting combo between locker and L/S unit. It is neither one nor the other.
     
  11. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    A gov loc is an interesting combo between locker and L/S unit. It is neither one nor the other.

    [/ QUOTE ]Tim,Are these any good (gov-lok)I was told that they are not very strong?
     
  12. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    Sounds like it is going to be time for a new axle really. If you need to get by cheap there should be someone on here in the seattle/pullyup area that has a stock axle for you cheap (or try the Snort4x4 forums too).

    I would take a close look at how you want to use the truck. The Semi Floater 14 bolt would be a good choice for a stronger axle if you are mainly doing light wheeling/street driving. The Full Floater 14 Bolt would be the best for big tires and heavy duty use.

    What gear ratio do you have right now? I have a 3.40 ratio 12 bolt that would bolt right in just sitting around collecting dust...
     
  13. option#9

    option#9 Registered Member

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    Not sure what the ratio is, still looking for the stamps. I think I'm just going to try and count though. I got a closer look at it today after work, the whole thing is slopping around in the housing. I can wobble the left wheel and watch the ring wobble with it.

    There sure are a lot of funky parts and springs in that locker.

    I have 38's on it right now but moving down to 35's untill I can get it regeared and new suspension lift. Sombody had thrown a 3" body on it to clear the 38's, I took it off a little while back and trimmed the fenders so they would just barely fit and am in the market for some 35's as soon as I can come up with the money.

    A 3.40 would get torn up pretty fast trying to push 38's wouldn't it?

    I just saw some 35 micky thompsons with 80% on Ebay for $400 in Snohomish if anyone is looking. I think they are going for under $250 right now. If I only had the cash.

    It looks like the ratio is 3.07, couldn't get much worse, specially with 38's. In my own defense I've only had the truck a few months and hope I would be a little wiser when putting that much rubber on something.
     
  14. option#9

    option#9 Registered Member

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    Suggestions please.

    I'm sure this has been asked way too many times to count, I did some searches and read some stuff but am going to ask anyway.

    I can't decide what to do. I have the stock 12 bolt(I think I said it was a 10 before but I just counted) that needs to be replaced. I would like to upgrade now, since it needs to be done but I'm a little short on cash. I don't have a choice in regearing the front because I'm not sticking with the 3.07's, my front driveshaft is bad anyway and sitting in the back of the truck so that's not a big deal right now.

    What should I get for the rear? I can't move up to 8 lugs, can't afford new rims.

    454, th350 on 38's
     
  15. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Are these any good (gov-lok)I was told that they are not very strong?

    [/ QUOTE ] They totally suck in a 10bolt. Extremely weak which is why they got the nick name gov-bomb. BUT..... in a 14bFF they work better and are much stronger. I have one in my 14BFF and it works OK. I had one in my old 10 bolt too. I have never had any problems with breakage but both take a lot of power and wheel spin to engage but when they do lock they work great. I never have problems going strait but If I need posi going through a soggy turn. half of the time it won't lock. Sometimes it will "one leg" on me when I spin a dohnut. I am thinking of going with an aftermarket locker/limited slip besides the detroit locker if any are available when I get 4.88 gears.
     

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