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Gravity Bleeding Question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Resurrection_Joe, Mar 15, 2004.

  1. Resurrection_Joe

    Resurrection_Joe 1 ton status

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    Ooooh dragged my ass out to the shop yesterday (I think....)

    Anyway

    I'm going to need to bleed the truck soon. Two new axles, new brakelines, new hardline except for to the rear and from the MC to the PV. New proportioning valve. Maybe new MC.

    So the system is pretty much empty, I let the old lines hang when I took the D44 out. Is that good enough to start gravity bleeding or do I need to flush it out?

    Now here's the big question. Can I take the two lines at the MC and shoot air through them with my shop compressor? If so will this be a safe and easy way to empty the system of fluid?

    Also, on a side note, how tight should TRE's be on the steering. I just wonked em down like a silly RJ. I read that post about shackle tightness and need to back those off too..... so I started wondering about everything else I wonked on without antisieze, ohhhhhhhh crap......
     
  2. willyswanter

    willyswanter 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    You should bench blead the master cylinder first. Once thats done you can start it gravity bleeding but it will take a while, should work though.
     
  3. Resurrection_Joe

    Resurrection_Joe 1 ton status

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    Thank you for answering questions I didn't think to ask! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

    (sarcasm)

    I have one of those fun kits that bleed the master back into itself, so I got that there, and I knew it would work and would take a while, I just want to know what state the lines need to be in, empy, half empy, or some other phase. If they need to be comletely empty can I blow them out with air.
     
  4. 88sub4x4

    88sub4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, bench bleed the master, and then gravity bleed, but it may take a long time for the rears to get fluid. If you have access to a vacuum bleeder, the hand pump ones are pretty cheap, it will get the fluid back there alot sooner. Otherwise you will probably need a buddy.
     
  5. willyswanter

    willyswanter 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    They don't need to be empty. Just bleed the master cylinder, hook the lines up and crack the bleeder screws. Check often to make sure M/C is still full. Once nice clean fluid comes out continously from all bleeders your done. Thats what I did on my truck but my brakes are still a big spongy, going to take it in to be power blead once I can drive it.
     

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