Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Greaseable vs. non greasable D60 joints

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 84_Chevy_K10, Feb 6, 2004.

  1. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    Which do you run? I know that non-greasables are stronger, but I'm thinking with 30 spline stubs that those will go first. I could be wrong in thinking this.

    That outta keep you bastards from simply voting that you're naked without offering any tech advice.

    Note that these are D60 wheel joints as well. I know better than to put greasables in a 44 or 10 bolt.

    I *might* risk it at $50 each for the '60 joints to run the greasables for longer life depending on the results of the poll.
     
  2. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2001
    Posts:
    3,271
    Likes Received:
    134
    Location:
    Clovis CA
    For now Im gonna 5-806s and 35 spline outers,Im tired of breakin stuff /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    [ QUOTE ]
    For now Im gonna 5-806s and 35 spline outers,Im tired of breakin stuff /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    That's what I was thinking, but like I said, for what they cost, might want to make them last. I only have 38.5s, too, you'd think breakage would be minimal, although I'm going to have a locker up front.
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    Seven votes for greasable, four for non greasable, and 75 views, WTF?
     
  5. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2002
    Posts:
    3,270
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Delafield, Wisconsin
    Well, I'm guessing that not all the people who looked at this post have a D60 (like myself), so we didn't vote. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    [ QUOTE ]
    Well, I'm guessing that not all the people who looked at this post have a D60 (like myself), so we didn't vote. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yeah but there are tons of '60 owners here.
     
  7. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2001
    Posts:
    3,808
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    CA (LA/OC area)
    I just got my 60 so I don't have much to add...
    I would like to see what everyone else would do with stock shafts. Is a greasable joint stronger than a stock stub? If so I might go greasable now and go solid if I go to 35spl stubs.
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    In all honesty, I think any '60 joint is stronger than a stock stub, but I could be wrong.
     
  9. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2003
    Posts:
    2,774
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Phoenix AZ
    I am getting a 60 soon and was wondering about the same thing. These 60 joints sure aint as cheap as a 760 and they make a 297 seem almost free. I have heard spicer is making a new alloy joint (a D60 version of the 760) I figure those would be better. As far as strength goes don't use the numbers. A 297 shows a strength beyond a stub shaft but people blow 297 like they were candy and don't hurt the shaft (except the ears). The other issue is while turning the joint is more stressed so it might fail first if it is greesable. The alloy joint is supposed to have a smaller greese vain to allow for a stronger cross. We'll see I guess. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  10. burbBoy

    burbBoy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2002
    Posts:
    358
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    WI
    The part below is from the dana 60 bible. I would just run greasables as long as you plan to grease them. Other stuff will fail first most of the time.


    [ QUOTE ]
    if running the taper-down 35 spline inners with stock 30 spline outers the inner will break where it tapers down or the stub will break at about the same time. When the stub breaks it will usually ruin the lockout and it can break the spindle (split the spindle) or cause the spindle to swell. If running "big style" inners with the stock 30 spline stub axle then the stock 30 spline outer axleshaft or lock out will go. If running big inner with 35 spline (Dana 70) outer then the u-joint or 35 spline lock out will pop. If the u-joint goes it will take out the ears on both axles usually. If running big style inners with 35 spline outers with 35 spline drive flanges then the u-joint will break. Of course a driveshaft joint could break before some of this stuff depending on what size joints you are running.

    [/ QUOTE ]
     

Share This Page