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Greasing 14 bolt hubs and assembling bearings.

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Mudstud, Apr 30, 2003.

  1. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    Won't the gear oil and grease get mixed together? Isn't that a bad thing? Also, the hub assembles like this-
    thrust washer
    then adjuster nut
    then tanged metal thingy
    then the lock nut
    I know you bend the tang thing into one of the slots of the lock nut but what about the adjuster nut?
    My question is in regard to what the Chiltons says about the small metal tang being lined up with the adjuster nut. Do you bend the little tab into a slot on the adjuster nut and if so, to align them do you tighten the adjuster nut a little more or back it off? /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. 2Dogs

    2Dogs 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I don't think the extra grease will hurt, might even help a bit for bearings.... What locker are you running? Might want to flush it after a bit if you are using a limited slip or spool.....

    Bearings:
    Sounds correct to me.
    I would rather loosen it but it depends on how much.
    And if this is a new assembly it might create space on the break-in....?
    Adjust it to the closest tang, run it for a few hunert miles
    and re-check to be sure. Yeah, it's messy but it is worth it.

    I had a Motorhome dually explode a bearing on the way to Glamis cuz of incorrect preload - locked up the right dual and took me off the road so freakin fast!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
     
  3. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    The bearings in a 14FF don't get greased, they receive lube from the gear oil in the differential. If you are building a new differential then all you need to worry about is that the bearings have plenty of oil on them so they don't have a dry start. Once you drive the vehicle then the gear oil works its way down the axles and into the bearings in the hubs.
     
  4. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    I just wet the new bearings with gear lube, then put everything back together. Then just to be sure, after filling the diff, I jack up the opposite side of the truck for a couple of minutes to be sure that plenty of gear lube runs into the wheel bearings so they're drenched in lube when the truck begins to roll. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    i have rebuilt 2 14 bolts and helped on anoter. i greased the bearings lightly with normal wheel bearing grease. no problems on 2 of them. the other has yet to roll out of the garage. one reason i greased them is on the rocks it can be a while before the up wheel sees any oil. and my truck in the garage will not see oil for a while and need to be rolled around in a while.
    Grant
    Grant
     
  6. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    I always thought the same way and when I tore this axle down-ie- took off the cover, took off the hubs/rotors, there was no grease but according to Chiltons it says they are supposed to get grease.

    I just got this axle. It is an open 4.10 just waiting for a detroit- anybody got a used one?
     
  7. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    I've always just installed the hub, sealed it up and jacked up the side with the fill plug, I think it's the passenger side. Anyways, I fill it up that way so it gets more than it should have. I don't really see a problem with this since the fluid has plenty of places to go, i.e. the diff, tubes, and hubs. Then I put the fill plug on and jack up both sides as high as the jack will go so the fluid will get into both hubs. I also dip the bearings in fluid before installing the hubs.

    The bearings still look brand new after 3 years. Can't say much for the front. Think i have been through 4 sets?? Damn the Llano river... Also, due to the fact that water and sand can sneak their way into the front hubs in many ways.

    Can't wait for mog axles so i can have oil bath hubs in the front too!!
     
  8. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Also, due to the fact that water and sand can sneak their way into the front hubs in many ways.


    [/ QUOTE ]
    I found some tiny o-rings at Pep Boys that fit over the screws that hold the hub dial housing in place, and just fit inside the recess for the bolt head. That was the only non-o-ringed part left on the hub. Hopefully this will keep the water out of the hubs and bearings. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  9. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    I just use a dab of rtv and have never had water in the hubs. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    They aren't packed with grease like a front bearing. They receive lubrication from the gear oil in the differential housing. Too much grease (or too thick of grease COULD block lubrication.....although not likely). The "local rearend guru" told me to soak the bearings in posi-traction or limited slip additive and then install. It won't hurt an open diff and adds only a little to the gear oil if you have a limited slip rear end (still add the same amount as usual to the oil). He said the reason for this is it "sticks" better than gear oil (stays on the bearings), especially if it won't be run right away, and lubricates at initial startup. Alway check your diff fluid after the inital run on a 14FF. Hope this helps.
     
  11. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    the wheel hub holds lube so it is not likely to run a bearing dry from angles
     

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