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Greg...experts...step in my office

Discussion in 'Audio' started by '73 K5, Dec 13, 2002.

  1. '73 K5

    '73 K5 1/2 ton status

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    At first I was going to stick to a very mild stereo in my '92 5.0
    Its kind of a fast car, so I didn't want to weigh it down with tons of subs, MDF and crap. Its been a while since I did a real custom install and I'm kind of itching to do it again. Real bad. And I think I can go all out, but keep it light weight. I want to hear y'alls opinions
    Are 20V/24V surge capacitors really necessary? I remember people saying that with the standard 16/20 caps you might get in trouble if the voltage spikes higher than that and thats why you need a 20/24. Is that a bunch of BS or what? I'm trying to find some caps on Ebay and 95% are the 16/20 kind. The only caps I've ever owned have been the nice ones, but I'm trying to save some money.

    Has anyone here put L-pads on their rear fill speakers? I don't have any question about install...I was just curious if you were pleased with the result.

    I'm going to be running a single JL Audio 12W3 with a Fosgate Punch 200ix. 5.25 component set up front and 6x8's in the rear with probably a Fosgate 240x4. One of my old installer buddies suggested 6.5 inch midbass drivers in the doors and the component set in some kick panels. Does this sound like a good idea? A good match for the 12? If so, at what frequency should I cut the sub and bring in the midbass? What frequency should I cut from the midbass to the midrange? Keep in mind these aren't really steep slopes...12dB per octave.

    I think thats it for now. I'm sure I'll have more questions later. Thanks for the input. And hey Greg...do you have any signal processors/EQ's in your truck? I forget. I just bought an Audiocontrol EQL for the 'stang. I was going to snag a pair of EQT's...which I've dreamed about forever...but since I won't be competing I don't want to spend 3 days setting the levels.
     
  2. VisionxOrb

    VisionxOrb 1/2 ton status

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    as far as CAPS I think the ESR is the most important factor. It determains how many amps the cap will discharged in the amount of time in relation to the voltage drop ( for got the math formula for figuring out ). Try to get the lowest ESR you can.
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Hey Ryan,

    If you're trying to save weight, why not built the subwoofer enclosure out of aluminum? I've been itching to do a box out of either steel or aluminum now that I have a welder....you could easily add bracing inside, and line the whole thing with Dynamat (or equivalent) so it won't have to sound "metallic".... Just an idea. It would be WAY lighter than MDF that's for sure!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

    I've used inline resistors for rear fill before, I once built a system where I didn't have a "fader" capability on the deck itself (I ran the rears off the same amp channels as the fronts), so I used the resistors to knock the output down a about 3-6dB....it was a simple solution that gave me the right "blend" for the rears.

    If/when I add rear fill to my K5, I think I will mess around with some sort of bandpass filter to limit what frequencies go to them....for sure they won't play bass or upper bass....I'm not sure if it will make sense to also cut the extreme high frequencies too...? I think I'll just try a few hardwired passive crossovers and see what sounds right. I'm a big believer in "trusting my ears" to tell me what is RIGHT!!! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    In the K5 currently, the only tricks I'm using are a tri-amplified setup....my crossover splits all the bass to the sub amp (around 85Hz @ 18db/Octave), and passes the midband stuff to dedicated midbass amps (to maybe 2500Hz? I forget since it's been a while)....then I have a dedicated tweeter amp for everything above that final cutoff frequency.

    Of course, having seperate amps for everything means that I can do a lot of tweaking of particular speakers for the overall effect and balance I want.....not really a signal processing type deal, but better than nothing! The only other "trick" is the use of a sub-bass controller to boost the output of the subwoofer amp relative to everything else. That's a good one to have when driving on the highway, since the bass seems to disappear at normal settings. Around town I can back it off again to normal proportions.

    In the Blazer, I knew I wouldn't be getting a great SQ envirionment, so I went for CLEAN and POWERFUL and MUSICAL, but not necessarily 100% accurate sound. I call it a "Rock 'N Roll" setup. It's fun to listen to and still very satisfying, but not really the kind of thing you'd ever drive down the judging lanes at IASCA or whatever. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  4. '73 K5

    '73 K5 1/2 ton status

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    Thats a neat idea for the box, but since I don't have a welder, I think I'll stick to a MDF top for the sub box with fiberglass sides and bottom.
    You read my mind about the frequency stuff for the rear fill. I was thinking bandpass filter before you even mentioned it. All of my rearfill in the past has been hacked off at 300 Hz or so, but I've never done anything for the higher frequencies. Might be fun to play around with. I've seen some guys just use a pair of midrange speakers for rear fill...sounded real nice that way. Maybe 300-3500 Hz or something close to that.
     
  5. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I've got a pioneer head unit that will cut the high's from the rear. It is fun to play with (cut the highs and turn the fadder to the rear...stuff like that). It would be nice if it was adjustable because I seem to want it somewhere in between. With all the highs to the rear I turn I have to turn the fadder to the front 4 or it sounds too much from the rear. If I cut the highs to the rear I have to turn the fadder to the rear at least 4 to even tell I have rear speakers.

    This feature is without a doubt something I want to keep as I moddify my sound system (if you can even call it that now). I would either like to have it adjustable or mess with different inducters till it sounds right.

    Edit: not an expert opinion.
     
  6. '73 K5

    '73 K5 1/2 ton status

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    Not an expert? OK buddy, I'm calling the cops right now. lol
    I remember installing a bunch of those Pioneer decks that did that. Its a neat feature. I also remember a handful of retards coming back to the bay going "I blew my rear speakers...they sound totally different." So I'd go outside and show them which buttons they shouldn't push anymore.
     
  7. Prembird

    Prembird 1/2 ton status

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    Im running a 12w3d2 off of a Fosgate Power 150.1 amp.. The box is a mdf box and the the combo isnt heavy at all so that wouldnt be a problem... As for the caps.. Im not to worried about it since im only running the deck output and the one amp.. if this is something along the same lines then i wouldnt worry to much about getting a cap for the power... Also the door speakers would be a good idea if you ask me... its a pretty straight forward install from the looks of things.. Only problem i have is at idle i can see my dash lights blink just a little.. tail lights and head lights are not effected at all.. but seeing that your putting it in a 5.0 then the output from the alternator should be just fine to do what you want... I would even go far enough to say that even if you add the other amp you still wouldnt have a problem with it....

    Hope this helps on top of the other responces you have gotten..
     

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