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Has anybody ever welded up a 10 bolt rear??

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Mudhucker, Aug 1, 2002.

  1. Mudhucker

    Mudhucker Registered Member

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    Kind of a newbie question, but i'm thinking of welding up my rear 10 bolt just for the time being until i can afford my 3/4 diff conversions. Can i even do this for say 6 months or will it just destroy my diff?? I'm not concerned with the tires I work at a tire dealer. Thanks for any help <font color="blue"> </font color>
     
  2. tipoil

    tipoil 1/2 ton status

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    U can welded it up for sure .. But u could brake it..sorry

    A few that i know did it to ther truck(front and rear only front or only rear )whitout breaking it .
    Other break a few axle from time to time.
    I have a 12b on mine and it's not welded!!
    but if u do go easy on it!!!

    how are u going to welded it up? and whit what(rod welder or MIG welder or...)???
     
  3. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    a friend of mine mini spooled it---lasted 2 trails and that was it...save the $$ (even thoug basically free) and wheel w/it open---and do it to the 3/4 ton stuff /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  4. Mudhucker

    Mudhucker Registered Member

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    I was just going to mig weld the spider gears so it would act as a semi spool?? I've heard of people doing this as the 10 bolt posi rears are very weak? I should have a new truck to tow the blazer with by december then i will be going with a 14bolt rear and a dana 60 front with a spool in the back and an easy locker in the front, i just want to be able to keep up to the guys i wheel with and not have my stocker posi grenade on me /forums/images/icons/confused.gif
     
  5. tipoil

    tipoil 1/2 ton status

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    Ok ...if u have a few spare parts(axle,carier,housing)i would try it .
    if u brake it,it's just a 10bolt anyway.
    and u can fix it to get around town.
    From what ur saying i guess u got a "gov lock" posi rear end?? I'm sure those thing are made of glass!!!!!!!!!
     
  6. Mudhucker

    Mudhucker Registered Member

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    Gov lock, i was told they didn't make the gov lock until the feul injected truck came out?? i'm about to change my diff fluid so if i have gov lock how can i tell because i'm pretty sure i need an additive for it if it's in my truck don't i?? thanks for the help
     
  7. tipoil

    tipoil 1/2 ton status

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    as found on a site:
    Gov-lock(G/L)
    Used by General Motors in 73 &amp; newer trucks that came with an option locking / limited slip differential. It was used in 7.5", 7.625", 8.5", 8.6", 8.875" 12 bolt truck, 9.5", 10.5", and now in the new 11.5" differentials. The smaller designs are fairly weak and the 8.5" and 12 bolt truck designs are especially weak. The 9.5" and 10.5" 14T units are fairly strong and will hold up well to towing and moderate abuse. The Gov-Lock is designed to act as an open differential during normal driving with no force being applied to clutches. This fact that no force is applied to the clutches keeps the clutches from chattering during normal every day driving. When either wheel slips and spins approximately 100 rpm faster than the other a governor assembly senses the difference in speed and activates a ramp system. The ramp system causes the clutches to engage and transfer power to the wheel with traction. One other feature of the Gov-Lock is that it will not engage at vehicle speed above 30 mph. This no lock-up feature keeps the vehicle more stable at higher speeds where both wheels spinning could cause an inexperienced driver to spin out or slide off of the road. This is a great design in theory and works as designed in a stock vehicle that is not abused. The problem is that most of us modify our trucks and many of us abuse them. When this unit is asked to deliver under extreme conditions it tends to self-destruct. The force generated by the ramp system that is used to lock-up the clutches works well, except that same force has to be contained by the case and the case is not always up to the job. (factory


    as far as the aditive i thing it only applies "clutch" type
    but....wait a min...u got clutch in them....never mind!!!
    The worse case if it need some additive,it will shutter (jog)a bit on lock-up.but i would save some cash anyway since u are going to change it or welded it soon.but i'm 90% sure that it dosent need it.
    I'm trying to find a pics of a gov-lock so u would know what to look for ..wish me luck !!! /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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  9. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    Weld it up! Just be sure to clean everything thoroughly after you finish. After you run it a few days, drain the gear dope out and put in some fresh to get out any little debris you might have missed. Do a search on the ORD forum for LOTS of tips on welding it up. Also, for the additive...just buy a 5 gallon bucket of Coastal 80W-90 from Autozone...it's cheaper than the gallons or quarts (for the same amount) and it is GL-5 (already has friction modifier) as opposed to GL-4 in the small containers. If you are gonna be wheeling and getting new diffs, you'll go through 5 gallons without too much truouble.
     
  10. Mudhucker

    Mudhucker Registered Member

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    Thanks for all the help on this guys, but i may have a line on a 14FF for $200 complete, and i guess i may as well pick it up now and wait to swap it in as i can afford to build it up, new spool, brakes, etc. As for welding it up i think i may as well leave it as it sits. /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
     

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