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Has anyone done this for more travel in the rear?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 84k5, Aug 26, 2003.

  1. 84k5

    84k5 1/2 ton status

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    This doesn't apply if you're running a shackle flip, but if you're smart you can probaby answer this anyhow. I have 4" tuff country springs and greasable bushings in the rear. Yes, I put the right bolts in the right holes. The bolt through the shackle and spring hits the bracket that connects to the frame, stopping downward travel.

    Basically I want to cut it short enough so it clears and wont limit down travel. Is it safe to cut the bolt shorter, or do I need to buy a shorter one. (Don't know where I'd get one since it's greasable.) Can I cut it flush with the nut, or do I need to leave a couple threads to be safe? TIA
     
  2. patrickcampbell

    patrickcampbell Registered Member

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    well cut the f-ing bolt as long as u dont plan on taking your rear springs off.
    PS: if you buy new bolts they dont have to be greaseable.

    Oh yeah and what the hell are you talking about the bolts hit, I have never seen the bolts hit and mine dont either
    /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  3. 84k5

    84k5 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    well cut the f-ing bolt as long as u dont plan on taking your rear springs off.
    PS: if you buy new bolts they dont have to be greaseable.

    Oh yeah and what the hell are you talking about the bolts hit, I have never seen the bolts hit and mine dont either
    /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Good job, you seemed to entirely miss the question.

    1. I want to know if cutting the bolt is going to weaken it. I don't know how far the grease channel runs through it, so I don't want to cut it too short and have grease just run out the other side.

    2. Why would I buy greasable bushings, then replace them with non-greasable bolts. Sorta gets rid of the point.

    3. You're right, it doesn't hit. I made it up for fun. You've seen every gm truck and you know better than me.
     
  4. BRN78BLAZER

    BRN78BLAZER 1/2 ton status

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    I'm not sure I quite understand, but if its what I'm picturing, could you take the bolt out and just reverse it. If its the thread end hitting, and you switched so the head end was on that side, would the bolt then clear?
    Hope this helps
    --steve--
     
  5. chevyfumes

    chevyfumes Court jester

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    Watch for the muzzleflash!
    The greese channel only goes about 1/2 way through, you should have been able to see it when you put them in.... /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    I know what you are talking about, mine did the same thing. Cutting the end off the bolt won't weaken it, and as others have said the grease channel goes only about 1/2 way.

    You can't turn the bolt around because the Zerk would hit the frame, same as the bolt being to long.
     
  7. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    I haven't found the book or reference that explains it, but there is some "science" to leaving a little bit of thread stickout beyond the nut. I would try to avoid cutting it exactly flush....if you can leave a couple of threads exposed, I think you would be as strong as it is currently......(but with beter shackle movement!)

    Hole for grease is only 1/2 way down the bolt, then dumps out as a hole in the side which I'm sure you saw during installation.


    ps. I have a shackle flip, and still answered your question. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  8. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, the science is called.....

    "leave some thread exposed so that if in case of vibrations the nut wont fall off."

    I personally (one of these days) intend to just drill a hole through all of those suspension bolts to install a cotter pin. That way, I can loosen everything up, and have no fear of a nut falling off.
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I believe you should leave half the width of the bolt past the end of the nut. 1/2" bolt...1/4" past the end of the nut.

    Rene
     
  10. 84k5

    84k5 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah I saw where the grease comes out, but wasn't sure if the other channel stopped there or what. Half its width sounds good to me. Hopefully that will clear.
     
  11. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    if its a harded bolt cutting can weaken it... but If your gonna do it go slow and try to keep it cool if your using a sal of some type keep it wet with oil.
     
  12. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I haven't found the book or reference that explains it, but there is some "science" to leaving a little bit of thread stickout beyond the nut. I would try to avoid cutting it exactly flush....if you can leave a couple of threads exposed....

    [/ QUOTE ]

    It is written in most technical manuals... mainly those where torque values are critical, or areas where if the component were to come apart it could lead to serious injury or loss of life... such as heavy machinery and aircraft maintenance.
    Having said that, in your application I would try to maintain at least 1 1/2 threads past the lock nut, as has been said a few times....
     

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