Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Has anyone used Slip-Plate graphite paint on your springs ??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 88Silverado, Sep 16, 2003.

  1. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2003
    Posts:
    2,664
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Quartz Hill, So. Cal
    Was at the local tractor store to get some bolts and I found a graphite dry lube paint called "Slip-Plate" From what I can find on the web, this should be a great leaf spring anti-friction material.
    Any comments?
     
  2. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2003
    Posts:
    2,334
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Davenport, Ia
    I would think it would need reapplied regularly....
     
  3. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2003
    Posts:
    2,664
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Quartz Hill, So. Cal
    Thats what I thought. Guy at tractor place said stuff bonds real well and doesnt wash off.

    Heres what the can says:
    [ QUOTE ]
    Fine graphite particals bond quickly to any metal, plastic, rubber or wood surface. Will not pick up mud dirt, dust, snow, grass or grit. Long-lasting lubrication and protection from rain, snow, dust or heat. Protects against rust and coorosion. Dry film bond strength about 3000psi. Functions from -50f to +400f. Resistant to salt air, acids and water

    [/ QUOTE ]


    I sprayed some on a bare leaf and cant seem to remove it. Looks like a super-fine graphite material if you rub your fingers across it. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  4. Don

    Don 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 30, 2002
    Posts:
    1,778
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Spokane Washington
    We use that on all the Road grader blade circle's, work's great! If we were to use grease, oil, it collect's dirt, rock's, chunk's of crap, and would wear the circle's out far too soon. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif So I think it would work great on spring's also.
     
  5. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,031
    Likes Received:
    366
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    just put UHMW-PE between the leaves. no need to paint it, its slippery, it wont cold flow etc. the 0.030 stuff is pretty cheap, comes on rolls at plastics supply places.

    j
     
  6. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2003
    Posts:
    2,664
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Quartz Hill, So. Cal
    I have been looking for that stuff but no one seems to know what it is.
    The stuff I got from the local 4x4 house is like nylon as is the pads I got. Really thin matl would be nice. This lube might work well too. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. motorheadnelson

    motorheadnelson Registered Member

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2001
    Posts:
    80
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Fort Mohave AZ
    we use slip-plate on car haul trailers so the tables slide easily..has to be re-applied every few weeks, for what that is worth.
     
  8. Judd

    Judd 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2002
    Posts:
    175
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    N.E. Ga
    [ QUOTE ]
    just put UHMW-PE between the leaves. no need to paint it, its slippery, it wont cold flow etc. the 0.030 stuff is pretty cheap, comes on rolls at plastics supply places.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Where did you see this stuff? I remember seeing a article in a mag about it but I have lost the mag/article. I did a search both on here and a google search under "pressure sensitive UHMW-PE" and have not had real good luck.

    The companies that I found either do not sell retail or they what to sell too much {way more than I need and way too much money}.

    Any help would appreciated.
     
  9. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2000
    Posts:
    6,737
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Los Banos, CA
    McMaster-Carr sells it. That sheet looks like it would probably do 4 leaf springs if you are careful with how you cut it. It comes in lots of other thicknesses and sheet sizes.
     
  10. Judd

    Judd 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2002
    Posts:
    175
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    N.E. Ga
    Thanks for the link! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2003
    Posts:
    2,664
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Quartz Hill, So. Cal
    I also found this on a Search

    [ QUOTE ]
    The plastic tape I like is 0.005" thick, comes on a 3 inch wide roll and has 1.5 mils of acrylic adhesive. It can be purchased from McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/) and is part number 76445A24 (You can do a part number search on their site to find the tape).

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Did a search on that P/N and it comes in a roll !
    76445A24

    UHMW Polyethylene Tape 3" Width X 18 Yards Length, .0065" Total Thickness
    $ 44.03 per Roll

    Thats some realllly thin material.
    Figure with shipping cost etc your looking at around $60 /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    Is it really worth the $$$ /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  12. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2000
    Posts:
    6,737
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Los Banos, CA
    That seems awfully thin! I think I would prefer the 1/16" thick stuff even if I have to cut it myself. 5 thou is not very thick, I'd be afraid that it would get messed up real easy.
     
  13. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,031
    Likes Received:
    366
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    i got mine at a place in downtown portland, OR... they had rolls in 0.060 and 0.030" sizes... which are what the mag article in fourwheeler (?) recommended. I went with the thicker stuff, but only cause its all that they had in stock the day I went. 0.030 will work fine and its cheaper. Also, it comes on 3" rolls... which in order to fit on my springs I had to cut with scissors. Its no biggie, but that part of the install would be even easier with the thinner 0.030 stuff. This stuff has some kind of adhesive junk on one side.. but some weak solvents should take it right off. I figured it'd be best not to have the adhesive crap in there... if you left it on there, small rocks might build up on the sticky stuff and slowly but surely wear on your leaves.

    At any rate, these guys DO sell small quantities and they also ship. Here is the link/contact info...

    http://www.multicraftplastics.com/

    I should get a cut from these guys... I have refered quite a few people over the last few years. If you happen to live in portland, they have a bargain basement area with some great prices... not always the best selection, but its worth a look. These guys can also do all kinds of custom plastic fabrication.. they arent just a dealer they manufacture/fabricate as well. At any rate, they know plastic, so if ya give em a ring they ought to be able to hook you up.

    before I ordered from these guys and paid for shipping tho, I would check my local phone book in the plastics or plastic supplier sections. I would think any city of decent size would have a place that carried this stuff. Its not uncommon, expensive or exotic... most plastics places should have it.

    hope it helps,

    j
     
  14. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2002
    Posts:
    2,755
    Likes Received:
    48
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Can you explain where you put the stuff? Did you pull apart the spring pack and put it at the bottom of the arch, or is it more for where the shorter leaves contact the longer ones?
     
  15. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,031
    Likes Received:
    366
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    i took the spring pack apart and put a sheet of UHMW-PE between each leaf... from end to end. Here is a webshots pic... not ideal, but its what I got...

    pic 1

    Anyway, I drilled a hole in the center of each sheet of UHMW-PE for the center pin to go through and slapped it between each leaf. Almost all of your friction in a spring pack occurs at the ends of the leaves... but I figured "screw it" and just covered them from end to end, it was easier that way and IMO overkill is good. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif On the very bottom overload spring, I only put a small sheet in the center between the 2 leaves. Since my overloads are flipped anyway, they dont rub against the rest of the pack much so it was no biggie not to cover the entire overload. every other lead in the pack has the PE from end to end.

    j
     
  16. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2002
    Posts:
    2,755
    Likes Received:
    48
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    That looks great. Were you having problems that made you think to put the plastic between the leaves? I'm getting some creaking that I think is coming from my springs, because they are getting pretty rusty. I'd consider pulling it all apart if I knew that was the problem, but it looks like a heck of a lot of work, and I'm not certain the leaves are causing the problem.
     
  17. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,031
    Likes Received:
    366
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    at the time I was setting up my rear suspension (taking blocks out, putting an ORD shackle flip in). I had read about the UHMW-PE stuff in a mag a few months before and thought it might not be a bad idea. I knew my springs were 15 years old (at that time!) and pretty crusted with dirt/grime and a little bit of rust. I figured it didnt make much sense to improve the suspension and leave the springs looking (and probably working) like crap... so I "rebuilt" them. I took each pack apart, used a wire wheel to clean all the old paint, dirt and grime off, painted them, put new poly bushings in the eyes, added the sheets of UHMW-PE, and added the ORD zero rates + new center pins and they were done. I replaced the leaf retaining bolts while I was at it, the stock ones were rusty as heck for some reason. It really is pretty easy work, you could easily do it all in a day if it wasnt for having to wait for the paint to dry. I've been really happy with the springs ever since. Good and flexy, the paint still hasn't chipped, and the whole system has performed flawlessly. I recommend this kind of thing to anyone who has an old rig and plans on keeping their stock springs after doing a shackle flip or whatever.

    anyway, the creaking you are talking about... if I had to guess without seeing/hearing it, its probably a body bushing issue. If it is spring-related, its probably due to old worn out spring bushings. A nice set of poly bushings (ord sells them complete with nifty greasable bolts/bushings) would prolly fix the problem if thats what caused it. I dunno, maybe others have, but Ive never heard a spring squeek due to friction between the leaves... which is what the addition of UHMW-PE is meant to reduce.

    hope it helps,

    j
     
  18. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2003
    Posts:
    2,664
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Quartz Hill, So. Cal
    Great info...Thanks /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    I may try some of the local plastic houses down below. A round trip to the closes big city will cost me $15-20 in gas tho /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    My factory rears have anti-friction pads on the ends. Wonder if its the same type material. Was going to tear those down when I do the shaclke flip and bushings in a couple months. Still debating on flipping overloads. All my camping gear will go in back and someday tow a motorcycle or tent trailer.

    My fronts are all apart. Superrides, PITA to get the clamps apart (no bolt, folded steel) Ready to go back together. Started to drill for the pads but after 2 holes...theres got to be a better way. Guess I should get new spring bolts while they're apart.

    I sprayed some slip-plate on a couple springs. Stuff is pretty slippery would probably need to be maintained tho.
    Thanks again for the info...really helps /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  19. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,031
    Likes Received:
    366
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    factory springs (and some aftermarket ones) use teflon pads. UHMW-PE is generally superior for this application because it doesn't cold flow (or, atleast it is less prone to do so).

    I hear ya on the folded over spring clamps. My front springs have those too and they suck. I need to either take em to a spring shop to get the bolt kind put on there or just bend them and drill my own hole for the bolt. If you're an offroader type, its so much nicer being able to take your spring packs apart when you want to.

    anyway, if it costs that much to take a drive into town, maybe having the stuff shipped to you is worth it. Then again, I assume you go into town on occassion... could always combine trips. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

    j
     

Share This Page