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Have you ever driven without your rear yoke?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by pvfjr, May 5, 2005.

  1. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

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    The long story:
    Got a 89 s10 blazer that we just picked up a while back with a busted rear end. We convinced them to let us on base with it, even though the out of state registration was expired, cause afterall it was disabled and couldn't be driven. We told them it would be fixed as soon as it can and we would immediatly get it emission tested and registered (and we will). Well we've been looking for a set of axles for it, so we can swap the rear and do a solid front axle conversion at the same time. It takes a while to do things like this, but we are trying. So anyway, we see the Security Forces snooping around and looking at it here in the dormitory parking lot, writing stuff down on a piece of paper and all :( . So obviously that makes us a little nervous, who knows how long till we walk outside and it's just gone. Trying to avoid that.

    The basics:
    So we can't drive it to emissions testing with the rear end hooked up, so can I pull the drive shaft? Wouldn't the rear t-case come with it? I can't spill oil in the parking lot, so how high it the level? Can I pull the slip yoke without it gushing out? Or is there something in that posi diff(diff is already drained) I can quickly pull out to disengage it? How far could I/should I drive without a yoke?
     
  2. 1979jimmy350

    1979jimmy350 1/2 ton status

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    all s-10's have a slip yolk so you would loose fluid. The amount varries i have pulled a few drive shafts from s-10's and all have had different levels come out from only a few drops to a few cups. But as soon as you start it the fluid will pour out pretty quick. As for the rear end is it just the posi unit or is the whole diff toast. You might be able to throw a open carrier in there quick so you can drive it.
     
  3. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

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    Pinion is missing two teeth, and the ring is tore up pretty good. I could remove the ring from the carrier I suppose, which would allow me to leave the driveshaft installed, but I don't know how hard it is or how long it would take.
     
  4. 1979jimmy350

    1979jimmy350 1/2 ton status

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    if you just took off the ring that would help you a good amount. To take off teh ring should take like half an hour at the most even less with air tools.
     
  5. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

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    Well, no air tools. I've heard people talking about putting the ring in an oven just to get it onto the carrier, so how hard would it be to get off? Does a posi rear end come apart the same as an open one? That's all I have experience with. If I'm right...

    pull the wheels
    pull the drums
    pull diff cover
    remove the little bolt and big center pin
    slide axle shafts inward
    remove c-clips
    slide axles outward
    remove bearing cap bolts
    remove caps and carrier
    unbolt and remove ring gear

    Installation reverse removal...

    Is this right? Am I headed in the right direction?

    I've also heard people mention something about a bolt that always breaks in these 10 bolts, will I be dealing with that one? Which one is it?
     
  6. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Put it up on jack stands. Pull the cover. Pull the center pin retainer bolt. Pull the center pin. Push the axles in. Pull the C-clips out. Pull the axles out. Remove carrier cap bolts. Remove carrier. Remove ring gear bolts. Knock the ring gear off with a drift and hammer.

    Put carrier back in with the proper shims and races. Put caps and bolts back in. Push the axles back in. Put the C-clips in. Push the axles out. Put the pin back in. Put the retainer bolt back in. Put the cover back on. Drop it off the jack stands. Don't even bother putting oil in it if you're junking the axle.



    There is no reason to remove drums or tires.
     
  7. Fubeca

    Fubeca 1/2 ton status

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    You can make a red-neck cover for the t-case output out of a couple plumbing supplies. Go by a rubber reducer and a plug and a couple of hose clamps.

    Make sure you have something to catch any oil that comes out when you pull the driveshaft.

    If you remove the ring gear and any debris, put some oil back in it and you should be able to drive it a bit.

    P1010034.JPG
     
  8. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

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    I love the redneck method. Was thinking about it though, I would still have the ring turning the pinion, and at a freeway speed, missing teeth and gears meshing don't mix, with or without a load. That's definitely a good solution for when you break a driveshaft though, maybe we'll have to carry one of those just in case...

    Good to know that I don't have to mess with the wheels. I just didn't know if the drums would hit on anything if I tried to pull the axles in. Thanks for the info.
     
  9. Fubeca

    Fubeca 1/2 ton status

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    I was suggesting that and pulling the ring gear.

    You will have to pull the wheels and drums to get the axles out far enough to get the carrier out.
     
  10. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

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    Well if I can get the ring gear out, then I'll be able to leave the driveshaft. What would prevent the axles from sliding outward other than brake shoe/drum friction?
     
  11. 1979jimmy350

    1979jimmy350 1/2 ton status

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    if you take the ring gear off the carrier you can put the carrier back in with the spider gears and c clips so the axles are held in just as a normaly axle would be
     
  12. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Think about that for a minute.

    If anything, he wouldn't be able to push the drums in far enough due to the shoes hitting the ridge on the inside of the drum. However, I've pulled carriers out with the wheels and tires still on the shafts so I know it can be done.
     
  13. Jagged

    Jagged 1 ton status

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    Your need to get you some new SF guys. My buds and I have been working on an F-150 in the dorm lot here for over a year now, and still no tix. There were points where the engine was in the bed, transfer case on the ground, front suspension dangling all whereabouts, you name it... the truck looked it.

    (For those of you who are unfamiliar, you are not allowed to perform any major vehicle maintenance that will last more than 24 hours in a Dormitory parking lot)

    I've torn the driveshaft out of my 87 K5 before with no problem (no diff problem though), limped around town on front wheels until I got it to the garage.
     
  14. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, they're pretty bad around here. They hassled me once when I had the hood open and had a tape measure in my hand. :blush: How dare I...
     
  15. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

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    That's the plan. :cool1:
     
  16. Fubeca

    Fubeca 1/2 ton status

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    I see the picture now -- It was late :blush: . I too have pulled an axle w/o removing the wheel or drum.
     
  17. az88k5

    az88k5 1/2 ton status

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    not sure if this has been discussed but...
    if you don't want to yack all your slip yoke fluid out...
    get a liter bottle of soda, :D drink it down (keep the cap), put the cap back on, cut the bottom off and duct tape it to the tailcone assembly. It works...
    ASK ME HOW I KNOW
     
  18. Zeitler

    Zeitler Registered Member

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    how long can this trick work? mabye a big hoseclamp would help

    (my D60 should be ready for install soon , but the 14bff need some welding and that is not my business but i'm aching to try out the 4.56 gears :D)
     
  19. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I think we may be forced to do that. The freakin center pin bolt broke just like I had heard about. Can't figure out an easy way to get it out. The threaded part of the bolt came out fine, but I think the pin part at the end had long been separated. Who's gotten these out before?
     

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