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Have you ever seen a Distributor gear that looks like this?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by FWP, Jan 20, 2002.

  1. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Yikes...that doesn't look good! It came out of the box looking like that?

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  3. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    I acidentally bought a bronze dist. gear for the firebird when I built the motor and I am running a hydrulic flat tappet cam in it. Well within a month the dist. had to be pulled because the cam destroyed the gear. That sucked :(

    86Jimmy 4"&35"MTRs,87 burb 4"&33"MT,69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  4. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Naw, that's with 1100 miles on it. I spent weeks trying to find out where the 'knock' was coming from on my newly rebuilt motor. The distributor was a "new peformance HEI" dist from Summit. They say they "have no history" concerning the gear being a problem, and to feel free to send the distributor back for a refund or exchange. I think that's horseshit and they should fix the damage and replace the parts that got screwed up in the process..... I pretty much sent em a letter to that effect. Anyway, I ain't a happer camper right now[​IMG]

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5</a>
     
  5. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    Damn...someone get a little hungry?



    Eric
    from Freekmont,CA.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.community.webshots.com/user/vwryda>The darker side of nonsense...</a>
     
  6. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    I know what you mean. That's why I spec'd this distrubutor for a hyd. cam, not a roller cam.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5</a>
     
  7. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Yea I didnt realize I put a bronze one in because I told them that it was a hyd cam and figured they sent the right one and well they didnt and I was too much of a hurry to get it done and didnt pay attention. Now I know my lesson.

    86Jimmy 4"&35"MTRs,87 burb 4"&33"MT,69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  8. high&liftedup

    high&liftedup Registered Member

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    I recently had a HEI ACCEL Dist. go bad on me (10k miles). The entire shaft came loose and turned my motor into a huge backfire machine. Turned out that I bent a valve so I decided to replace the engine with a crate. Anyway, Vic Hubbards Speed shop took the dist. back for a refund. I went with a MSD billet.

    HE will always get you out of the mire clay!!!
     
  9. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    Fred,

    I did this same thing to the Buick V6 that I used to run in my Sand Jeep. If the gear's not faulty, it's could be from too much torque being driven thru the distributor. In my case, the oil pump was running a pressure relief spring that was too stiff and with tight clearances in the motor it just took a lot of torque to run the oil pump at high engine speeds...

    If your pressure's not too high, might try another oil pump look for drag in that area somewhere...

    ..or if you're running a high volume pump, you might step down to a stock one.

    Marv

    <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by marv_springer on 01/21/02 09:29 AM.</FONT></P>
     
  10. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    Just a shot in the dark.
    Was the block decked or the heads milled? That would lower the intake-manifold, and that would make the dis. ride deeper into the cam-gear.

    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Eric
    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Twizted
     
  11. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Thanks Twiz[​IMG]...Good thought. No deck or milling, I wanted to keep the stock compression. I thought of something like that, so I ran a little test....Cam gear shows normal wear in center of gear. I put the cam, cam gear, heads, intake, oil pump, drive rod, and (original) stock distributor back on the motor, with NOTHING else installed. Rotated assembly, wear pattern on cam is correct- no abnormalities. There is only one conclusion, the gear on the distributor from Summit was not cut correctly, or not heat treated properly.


    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5</a>
     
  12. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Yes sir, another oil pump is in store for this baby. Since the metal from the dist gear has to go right into the Melling pump that was below it. Thanks Marv.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5</a>
     
  13. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    i was thinkin the same thing as marv when i saw the pic.
    are you running a high volume or pressure pump? if so i would guess it is to blame not the dist gear.
    common problem on ford 351c as the media has convinced everyone that the oiling system is bad so they try and run near 100psi oil pressure and it kills dist gears. the only way to run super psi is an external pump like a moroso or dry sump style with its own drive system

    formerly 77chev
    still a jerk though
     
  14. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Yes, and No. I put the lower pressure spring into the Melling 55HV pump, and took out the stronger spring. I didn't see any need for 70 psi....

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5</a>
     
  15. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    i would downsize the pump.
    IMO
    unless this is a motor with greater bearing clearances the 'high'er volume is just being dumped out the bypass anyway.
    o'course i dont have a clue what you have built, hopefully if you are running a big pump you also have a huge oil sump so you dont drain the pan

    formerly 77chev
    still a jerk though
     
  16. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Boy, I just love doing this. I have been waiting for you to shoot your mouth on a subject that you know nothing about, and here it is.

    I happen to have a Melling High Volume oil pump as well, so I found your BS statement quite irritating.

    This is coming directly from the Melling website:
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.melling.com/highvol.html>High Volume Pumps, Advantages, Myths &amp; Fables</a>

    "It will not pump the oil pan dry. Both solid and hydraulic lifters have metering valves to limit flow of the oil to the top of the engine. If a pan is pumped dry, it is because the holes that drain oil back to the pan are plugged. If the high volume pump is also higher pressure, there will be a slight increase in flow to the top.

    It will not wear out distributor gears. The load on the gear is directly related to the resistance to flow. Oil pressure is the measure of resistance to flow. The Ford 427 FE "side oiler" used a pump with relief valve set at 125 psi and it used a standard distributor gear. Distributor gear failures are usually caused by a worn gear on a new cam gear and/or worn bearings allowing misalignment. "

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  17. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Ugly... I just ripped apart a 351 ford motor with the same problem here and I would really be careful installing the distributor next time around. You may need to shim it a touch. That would be my .02 worth

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
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  18. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    From the last line of the melling article...
    "High volume pumps can be a big advantage if used where needed. If installed in an engine that does not need the additional volume, they will not create a problem."

    I agree to a point... BTW good link Tim. But like the article said if you are running a mild performance motor that is gonna stay under 5grand 99% of the time you really don't need one. Plus keep in mind on the SBC's that a high volume pump is really not a huge necesity as the oil system stock is pretty decent after you do some work on the crank.

    But overall if you are gonna run screaming rpm's or a whicked BBC I would go for the HV pump... a mild small block for a daily driver I think it is overkill and only will lead to oil leaks earlier in the engines life IMO.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
     
  19. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    Seems this thread has gotten a little off subject, but it is still related. I agree on the oil pump thing. I just tried priming my new "built" crate engine and chewed the tool and the end of the intermediate shaft. I am replacing the pump now instead of taking a chance of not getting it fully cleaned. One guy was telling me that I ought to get a high volume pump when I was doing it. After som research, I found that it was completely unnecessary in my application. The stock Melling would work just fine. Got one from Autozone yesterday with screen and intermediate shaft with steel collar all for under $25. And that was the same M55 that came out of my crate.

    For drag racing or other forms of constant high RPM racing, a high volume/pressure pump makes sense. For our type of use, the standard one is plenty. Just be sure to get a good seat between the priming tool (whatever you use) and the intermediate shaft before you start to prime. Don't wanna chew up the tool or shaft. Ask me how I know!

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  20. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    <blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

    Distributor gear failures are usually caused by a worn gear on a new cam gear and/or worn bearings allowing misalignment.

    <hr></blockquote>

    Interesting. How would you get a worn gear, on a new cam gear? What if the cam gear is not worn, and neither are the bearings, cause then?? Anybody???

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/75K5</a>
     

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