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having problems with a tool!! please help

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bad_bo_ti, May 3, 2003.

  1. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    well i was at working in my pole barn using my sawzall, then it just quit, brought it home tore it apart, tried it, nothing, took the brushes out and looked at them, didnt see and thing wrong with them, then i think its called the stator?( the piece the rotates between the brushes) any way when i move it a little and try it, it runs, let off and try it slowly it stops. does anyone know what my problem could be? thanks chris
     
  2. chevyfumes

    chevyfumes Court jester

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    Watch for the muzzleflash!
    How old is the saw and how much have you used it???Sounds like it's givin up the ghost..... /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  3. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    the thing is only like 2 years old, on average i probably use it about 2-3 times a month for maybe anywhere from 5-10 mins or use.
     
  4. bowtiepower00

    bowtiepower00 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds like a typical Milwaukee switch problem. Take it into a shop and get it fixed. Should be under 20 bucks.
     
  5. toynova

    toynova Guest

    Mine was doing the same thing. Its the trigger switch. I think it was like six bucks for a new one. You have to use a very little strait screwdriver to push in by the wires and then pull them out. Hard to live with out my sawzall.
     
  6. mofugly13

    mofugly13 1 ton bucket of rust Premium Member

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    We use sawzalls all the time at work. Whenever they crap out, 90% of the time it's 'cause the one of the conductors in the cord has either broken where it goes into the handle of the saw or come loose from its terminal in the molded plug end. You can check it out by holding the trigger and then wiggling the cord every which way at the plug end all the way to where it goes into the saw. You sad messing with the rotor (the stator is stationarry, the rotor rotates) had an effect so the cord is probably not the problem. But I thought I'd throw it out there anyway.
    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  7. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    is there anyway i can by pass the trigger to see if it works with out it? i should have known that about the rotor and stator, i took a damn electrical class once /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif oh well we are entitled to a goof now and then /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. toynova

    toynova Guest

    There is five wires going into the switch. You could probably could bypass it. just to check it. They where different colors. Like red green and brown or black I think, it was a while ago I had it apart. Hope this helps ya.
     
  9. mofugly13

    mofugly13 1 ton bucket of rust Premium Member

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    Yeah there is. I've never had a sawzall apart, but the trigger should have TWO wires going to it. One comes from the black wire in the cord, and the other goes out to the motor. You just need to put a jumper between these two. If there are FOUR wires going to the switch then it's probably switching both the hot and neutral. In that case you'll need to jump them both. You can also use an ohmmeter if you have one to check for continuity through the switch while it is pulled.
     
  10. mofugly13

    mofugly13 1 ton bucket of rust Premium Member

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    I posted before I saw toynovas post. If there are FIVE wires going to the switch, then your gonna have to figure out which ones come from the supply (ie. cord) and which go out to the motor, and then jump between them. It'd be easier if I has an opened up sawzall in front of me right now. Hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  11. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    appreciate all the advice, i put it back together today, i notice that when it stops, all i have to do is either push or pull the blade, not very safe but will get me through till i can take it in to get serviced.
     
  12. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    If it stops witht the trigger pulled, then starts right back up when you push or pull the blade a bit (therefore rotating the motor), you probably have a dead winding on the armature, or a dead spot on the commutator. Both probably require a new armature.
     

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