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Having problems with bleeding brakes!!!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bad_bo_ti, May 19, 2002.

  1. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    I have tried bleeding my brakes on my blazer for 2 days now and cant seem to get all the bubbles out, when i think i do get them out the pedal still feels spongy, does thins mean i have a little leak somewhere that is sucking air in? i just installed new stainless steel braided flex line on the front and rear, along with a new line across the rear axle. should tear everyhing back apart and put some kind of sealant on it or is there a way to find out the problem without a complete tear down? please help i just got down with my 14bff axle swap and want to drive it!!! thanks chris
     
  2. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Did you push in the button on the proportioning valve? It should be somewhere near the front of the truck...last one I saw was under the front crossmember. You may need 3 people to do it this way, or a c clamp for the button
     
  3. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    what the hell is the button for?
     
  4. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

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    My problems were similar, and turned out that the wheel cylinders in my drum brakes were bad. Replaced those and it works great. AFAIK, you dont need to use sealant on the threads, just make sure they are all tight.
     
  5. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    well everything in the front and rear brakes are new, they did sit awhile though, do you think this would affect it any?
     
  6. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

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    I would say no. How about your master cylinder? There is a chance the seals are going on that causing brake issues. But if you are getting air after bleeding over and over, then air is getting in somewhere. Is it at each tires or just the back or front?
     
  7. BozoWise

    BozoWise 1/2 ton status

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    Just did my axel swap (finished today) and I had the same problem. I had to replace both wheel cylinders in the 14FF and I also replaced some hard lines and soft lines. I ended up having to back bleed mine. You would hit the breaks and fluid would come out of the inside of the 14 FF drums.

    You should be able to get a setup for about 30.00 at the auto shop. It pumps the brake fluid in from the bleeders and works great for getting ALL the air out of the lines.
     
  8. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    a get a little out of them all but it seems like the majority is out of the right rear.
     
  9. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    what do you mean by back bleed and how do you do that? i am kinda new to the whole brake subject!!
     
  10. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

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    I wouldn't buy any special equipment to do it. All you need is a piece of tubing which helps you not make such a mess and see what kind of air your getting out.

    IF the system is good, you can bleed it without anything special. You may need to bleed a lot of fluid or bleed it twice, but its not that hard. I replaced My master cylinder and wheel cylinders and swapped axles and bleed everything the manual way.
     
  11. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    Must be that this was the weekend for Wheel Cylinders...we just replaced ours too...didn't have any problems bleeding the brake's though. We used something - a "auto bleeder"..it only requires 1 person..the one pumping. worked like a charm.

    Brandy
     
  12. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    well i have arleady bled alot of fluid, i have went through 3 containers of brake fluid, the big bottle (quart i think) all that i am bleeding now is fresh clear fluid. i would think that by this time all the air would be out. if nothing else atleast i have the system flushed of the old dirty fluid, thats a plus side to my big problem!!!!
     
  13. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    No kidding. My master started leaking. Still had a good peddle but truck wouldn't stop. Figured internal leak in addetion to the leak out the back. So threw a master on. Back brakes worked really good. could lock down my 35's no problem. not enough front. tore into the front to find the caliper slides full of mud. Passenger side go cocked at wore the pade funny. SO yesterday replaced the rotors, pads and hardware kit. Now I got a soft peddle again ! Arggggg.
    I know the rear need redoing also. Shoes are close to worn out.
     
  14. barbastard

    barbastard 1/2 ton status

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    you might want to think about taking it to a tire or brake shop and having it "vacuum blead". I blead mine 4 or 5 times after I did my axle swap and I still couldn't get the peddle to feel right, so I braught mine down, had them vacuum blead....holy hell!!!! Almost went through the friggin window!! Cost about $45, but was well worth the savings in brake fluid, time, frustration, energy, and the piece of mind. They also flush the entier system and replace all of your fluid (at least mine did). Good luck!!!

    Barbastard
     
  15. BozoWise

    BozoWise 1/2 ton status

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    The auto bleeder is the same tool as my back bleeder. All it is is a pump that pumps brake fluid into the bleeder and forces fluid towards the MC. All your air bubbles out the master cylinder and there is no place for it to get trapped.

    Try this process if you are bleeding them the old fashion way. Have the truck off and pump the brake a few times to remove any vacumm. Then have a person hold the brake to the floor. Loosen the right rear bleeder until only fluid comes out. Let the pedal up and repeat this step twice on each wheel. Work from RR LR RF LF.
     
  16. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    According to Carrol Smith in Engeneer to Win if you bleed your brakes to fast it causes bubles do to the fluid rushing out the blead screw. He says to have the hose attached to the blead screw under liguid in the jar and gentley push on the brake pedal with your hand. Not to have some 300 lb gorilla pumping the brakes for you. He also says on dual systems to do one front and rear at the same time. Then do the other front and rear at the same time. Look for Engineer to Win at Barnes and Noble and read the section on bleading brakes.
     

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