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Head gasket question

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by reddog64, Oct 8, 2001.

  1. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    I got a new motor with low miles and it's got a blown head gasket... the lady that owned the truck I'm getting it out of didnt keep enough water inthe radiator and blew the heads onit...

    I'm gonna replace the head gaskets and need to know something...

    1- Do I need to replace the bolts or can I use the same head bolts... and
    2 - can someone explain the process to doing this...

    I've done a four banger before but not a V-8...

    Pointers please I need pointers!!!
     
  2. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    Your best bet would be to get a manual such as Haynes.
    It is a pretty easy job. I recomend getting a Fel-Pro head gasget set.


    <font color=green> Too bad ignorance isn't painful </font color=green>
     
  3. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    I know it's easy...

    I understand how to do most of it...

    If it dont work right... I'll just do it again...

    Someone got a tork wrench I can borrow???
     
  4. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    If you have done a 4 banger then a V-8 isn't much different.
    Bring the #1 cyl to TDC and mark the position of the rotor on the distributer.
    Pull the distrubutor, drain the coolant and remove the intake manifold. you can remove the carb but I leave it on.
    unbolt everthing that is attached to the heads. unbolt the exhaust maniflds.
    Unbolt the heads starting from the middle out loosening each one a bit at a time.
    remove the heads and clean the gasget surfaces.
    On the head that blew the gasget I would wire brush it realy well and check it for cracks.
    use a shop-vac and clean out the cylinders and the lifter valley.
    install the gasgets over the dowls and carfuly put the heads back on.
    Torque them down to about 65lbs in 3 steps starting from the middle and working your way out.
    that is just a basic run down on how to do it.


    <font color=green> Too bad ignorance isn't painful </font color=green>
     
  5. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    Got two torque wrenches you can borrow if you want to drive down to Portland............no problem.

    Are you doing both sides? Hope so, otherwise it is tough to tell which thickness head gasket the other side has...........can you guess why I ask about this seemingly silly question??????????? [​IMG]

    <font color=blue>'79 ONE TON TPI K5 - See it at---&gt;<a target="_blank" href=http://www.blazzinor.rockcrawler.com>www.blazzinor.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  6. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    Well make sure your heads are fine first because with no coolant those things probably got hot in a hurry and could have cracked them.

    Using a system where you put masking on connections and labeling them as to where they go will GREATLY help your first job like this.

    1)Disconnect the battery
    2)Undo any cables, linkages, or hoses that are connected to the heads or will be in the way.
    3)Drain Radiator and undo top hose and heater hose if yours dumps into the intake.
    4)Undo the bolt on the hold down clamp for the distributor and pull it out
    5)Take of the brackets on the heads.
    6)Pull the exhaust manifolds
    7)Pop of your valve covers and undo all the bolts, should be some on top of the head (There two recessed down in the corners of each that usually get overlooked if you don't check). Then there some bolts for the intake and a row down by the exhaust manifold.
    8)Pull of the intake
    9)Undo the tappets and pull the pushrods
    10)Pull the heads

    They make some abrasive pads for and airtool that makes gasket removal clean and quick.

    When putting it together, make sure the gaskets are on the right side up. On the intake gaskets the holes at the end that look funny are for coolant, put some silicone on the front and back of those openings when you're putting on your intake. There is in an order for torquing heads, look it up. New bolts are a very good idea and rather inexpensive. When putting on your exhause manifold, the holes may not seem to line up, dont panic. The itense heat warps the manifolds. You might need a big pry bar or a hydraulic tool called a porta-power to push the thing apart. Or use this is a good excuse to get headers! Well, I probably missed something but thats all I can think of for now.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76>http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76</a>
     
  7. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Yup make sure the heads aren't cracked or warped. I personally always send mine in to get checked and gone through. It is pretty cheap and good insurance. Also I would take a look into if anti freeze made it's way into the oil... if it did just keep in mind that a/f is awful for bearings and leave a film/coating on them which repells oil.. thus results in bearing problems soon there after. Just a few things to keep in mind

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
     
  8. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Guy's...

    Well the motor is out of the vehicle and in the garage...

    I took the headers off and the plugs out...

    Water, yes water, clean clear water came out of the second back on the drivers side and the third back on the passengers side...
    The heads are a little milky,
    But the crank case (as far as I can tell is clean of water...
    Any ideas???
    The radiator of the vehicle was almost empty...

    What to do...
    I guess I'll do a compression test...
     

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