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Header bolt question...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Hoss, Dec 31, 2001.

  1. Hoss

    Hoss Registered Member

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    I was going to go replace the header gaskets on my 82 surburban, but the bolts are so damn close to the pipes, that I can't even get a socket or box end wrench around the bolt. I can use the open end, but I can tell I'll just strip the crap out of the bolts.

    I have no idea how the previous owner got to them. Has anyone else had this problem? How did you get around it?

    Thanks!

    -C
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.theonespot.com/myrides/suburban>1982 K20 Silverado Suburban</a>
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    I had that problem with a set of Cyclone AR-1 headers. It was a real PITA to turn the bolts. They were just too close to the tubes. I ended up replacing all of the bolts with socket cap bolts. They took a 5/16's allen wrench to install. I then used a Bhondus ball driver (it's an allen wrench that works at weird angles) to install the bolts. A 5/16's wrench can be slipped over the allen wrench to provide extra torque. Worked like a champ! [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  3. Hoss

    Hoss Registered Member

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    Ahh, good idea! I need to get me some of those allen head bolts.

    How did you get the orginal bolts off? A friend suggested grinding the caps off and once the header is pulled back, I should be able to remove the bolts shaft with pliers, but I'm unsure about doing this. Not even sure if I could get the grinder close enough on some of them.

    -C
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.theonespot.com/myrides/suburban>1982 K20 Silverado Suburban</a>
     
  4. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Got 'em off with VERY slow work using an open end wrench. Lots of slipping, cussing and banged knuckles. [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Simple modification to your header tubes is all that's necessary. Put a screwdriver between the tubes and the bolt and hit it a few times with a hammer. I can get a box-end wrench around every single one of my header bolts now!!!

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  6. Lonnie

    Lonnie 1/2 ton status

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    Even better than the Allen head bolts are the small 12 point bolts. ARP makes them with a 5/16" head. These clear almost everything &amp; do not exhibit the interference caused by the allen wrench hitting the tube if it curves coming out of the motor (generally the bolts at the rear of the front 2 cylinders).
    Lonnie
     
  7. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Couldn't do that with the headers that I had. The Cyclone AR-1's had flared ends and a short tube that came out of the flange, into the flare. The AR stood for Anti-Reversionary, the idea being that the tube inside of the inverted flare helped keep exhaust pulses from flowing back into the cylinder at low RPM's. I guess the idea didn't catch on [​IMG] since I haven't seen them for sale in many years.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  8. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    That's what is so cool about the ball-end allen wrenches. They work up to about a 25 degree angle. The wrench doesn't have to go straight into the bolt head. [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     

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