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Header Recommendation Needed

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by MikeH, Nov 10, 2001.

  1. MikeH

    MikeH Registered Member

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    Hello, any recommendations out there on newer style coated or wrapped headers. My old headers finally gave out about a year after I wrapped them with the head shield wrap. It was expected - but you know...

    So now is the time to upgrade! Something that was more geared to low-end torque would be good but there may not be a lot of choices.

    '71 Blazer, 350 stroked to 383, With Air Cond. HP everything.
     
  2. flblazer

    flblazer 1/2 ton status

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    heddmenns headers is the best i think an cost 110. shiped to your door

    when will you learn you needto drive a a chevy an pull fords out of the mud or over themsame as a jeep some one move that ford b 4 i go over it
     
  3. ChadL

    ChadL Registered Member

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    I have headman elite coated. Can't remember the cost. 3 years with no problems at all. Used the NAPA carbon gaskets-- no probs there either.
     
  4. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    383? Hmmm... At a minimum you need 1.625" OD tubes, with 1.75" preferrable. There aren't a lot of them out there with the bigger tubes. Hooker's got a good header in their Super Competition series.

    As you've found out, wrapping a header is bad news on a street vehicle. The wraps keep condensation inside of them and don't allow free evaproation, making the headers' rate of rust-out greatly accelerated. Leave the wrap to the racers who tear things apart after every race or even every heat. Ceramic coatings are a nice alternative and look good too.
     
  5. MikeH

    MikeH Registered Member

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    Thanks for the input guys. I will look into hedmanns and hookers and see what is available thats coated. Thanks for the OD recommendations Steve.

    I'm through with the wrap stuff, I think I just did it subconciously to make myself get new headers...
     
  6. Robin

    Robin 1/2 ton status

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    So I'm in the process of putting a 383 in my blazer and had ordered a set of Thorley's. I don't know the tube size but they only come in one size. They're expensive ($350) but I expected them to be bullet-proof and effective (tri-Y). I understand that for torque, the standard tube size would work well. What RPM range to you think the large tubes would be required for? Also the collectors they send with them are 2" ID, should I rework them to 2.5"?
     
  7. MikeH

    MikeH Registered Member

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    Robin;

    What is the part number of the Thorley's you ordered? I am talking with hooker and hedman tech reps on the right header. Another concern I have is that I will be supercharging my engine when time and (mostly) money permits. I will update the note when I have more info.
     
  8. Robin

    Robin 1/2 ton status

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    They custom make a batch, so I had to call around (their website has a list of dealers). The model number is 372-Y and the primary tubes are 1.5" (I measured them last night).
    The engine hasn't been assembled yet, so I don't know how effective they are yet, but I've had good reports from others.
    www.thoreyheaders.com
     
  9. skyblazer

    skyblazer 1/2 ton status

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    I installed Thorley 372Y headers on my 383 in a 72 K5. The have 1 5/8" primaries (which they recommended on my 383 for low rpm use for increased scavenging over the 1 3/4"). I have them installed and plan to fire the engine in a couple of weeks when I get the tub back on my chassis. Great fit on the left side around the clutch linkage, but the right side hits the leaf spring hanger bolt at the collector flange. I tried grinding down the flange and the bolt head, but it still wasn't enough. Talked to Thorley and they have had this problem lately, but are being bought out by another company and really couldn't do much for me except take them back. I ended up cutting them off before the collector and will have the exhaust guys weld the collector flange on at a different angle to clear. Should work and the sure look sexy. PS...don't use STAGE 8 locking bolts with these suckers. The flange at the head is thick and the STAGE 8 bolts are not long enough. I nearly pulled the threads out of my aluminum heads.
     
  10. Robin

    Robin 1/2 ton status

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    Great info. Sounds like you're about a month ahead of me (though I'm not ready to paint mine yet, the engine is being assembled and the bare frame is sitting in the driveway). Please let me know how they work when you fire it up. I'll look out for the clearance issue, but what are STAGE 8 bolts? Don't the bolts they send with the headers work?
     
  11. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    Robin, Stabe 8 Is a company that makes specialized fasteners. One of the fasteners they make is a header bolt that comes with a locking tab and has its head machined for an E-clip to hold the tab in. The tab is designed to prevent the bolt from loosening.

    I just use ARP bolts (stainless for headers) and tighten them according to their size and thread pitch. I rarely have them back out. The advantages of ARP's fasteners are that they have a reduced head wrenching size so that you have a little more wrench clearance around the tubes, a nice, thick integral washer head, nicely filleted bolt roots, and excellent finishing on the threads.

    Oh, the included bolts will work, but they'll rust in no time flat (ugly).
     
  12. MikeH

    MikeH Registered Member

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    Ok, the latest...

    Thorley also recommended the 372Y's to me for the same reasons Skyblazer and Robin said. (at least the recommendation is consistent). Hooker recommended the #2827 Super Comp. series header. No word from Hedman yet...
     
  13. Robin

    Robin 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Steve. I'm a firm believer in ARP myself. Do the Black ARP bolts rust as well on headers?
     
  14. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, the black oxide ARP bolts rust. Not quite as fast as the cheapo ones, but they rust. I have some UGLY ARP head bolts...
     
  15. Robin

    Robin 1/2 ton status

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    So even head bolts should be stainless?
     
  16. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    They don't make the head bolts in stainless...
     
  17. 69K10

    69K10 Registered Member

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    ARP DOES make a stainless header bolt P/N 070-400-1201 SB-Chevy, 12-Point, 3/8''x .750'', 12/pkg $ 15.99 I buy mine from Jegs Speed.

    69K10, 350,4spd, Pwr Brakes, Pwr Steering
     
  18. Mudder67

    Mudder67 Newbie

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    I use stainless bolts from Summit and I found out from a friend that drag races that cutting the flanges on each side of the center tubes will keep the bolts all tight. Lots easier to get all the bolts started also. I never have any problems with bolts coming loose now. I've been running Hookers for 20 years I guess, but can't compare because thats all I have ever owned.

    67ChevyStepside 4x4
     
  19. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    Yes, they make *header* bolts in 304S, not *head* bolts. They also make the header bolts in 6-point, which I usually just buy in bulk because I use that particular length of 3/8" bolt in other places than just on headers.
     

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