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Headers

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Tims72, Aug 9, 2003.

  1. Tims72

    Tims72 Registered Member

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    This question probably has been asked many times before but... I have a 72' K5 with a 350 and a 4 speed manual tranny. If any of you have put headers on your trucks, I would like to know what brand and part number you used. I am going to buy a set, but I can't decide what brand to buy. Most websites I look at don't show any specifically for my application though. Thanks for your help.
    Tim
     
  2. Tims72

    Tims72 Registered Member

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    Oh yeah, right now it is basicly between the Headman, Hooker Comps, and the Dynomax. They are all around the same price. I just don't know which is the best.
    Thanks again,
    Tim
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Can't help you on brand, but from what I've read.....look for the ones with the THICKEST mounting flanges. The thin (cheapie headers) ones warp so badly from the heat, that you'll spend the rest of your life chasing exhaust leaks...... /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  4. BluThndr71JMMY

    BluThndr71JMMY 1/2 ton status

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    I have Heddmans. They fit real close. To R&R the starter, you have to pull the pass side hedder. Also (on hot days) I'm getting vapor lock from the junction of the fuel lines in the pass side frame rail in close proximity to the rightside collector down tubes. Changing spark plugs is challenging as #7 has to be gotten at from underneath. And I had to joggle the ears of the Z/bar to clear the lefthand hedder tubes. Other than that they work OK after 4 years as a daily driver.
     
  5. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    I have Doug Thorleys on mine, seems to run cooler since I put the headers on...

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Tims72

    Tims72 Registered Member

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    So none of you have had the clutch linkage problem? Most of the companies say that a slight mod must be made. If you did do the mod can I get some pics?
    Thanks,
    Tim
     
  7. jerry303

    jerry303 Registered Member

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    Ha ha, when I get my engine back in I'll show you my clutch linkage fix...Just disconnect it and get it through the header.
     
  8. JIMs70K25

    JIMs70K25 1/2 ton status

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    Is the motor stock? If so I'd say get you a set of the vette ramhorns for a 62 vette w/ a 327 and run a 2.5" exhaust. I paid under $200 with shipping for mine. The vette ramhorns are 2.5" while the stockers are 2".
     
  9. BluThndr71JMMY

    BluThndr71JMMY 1/2 ton status

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    Like I said, I had to "joggle" the ears of the Z/Bar for the lower cutch pushrod to pass by the lower bends of the #5 or #7 header tube. The forward end of it was clanging into the back header tube. Rather than dinging-in a dent in the header [ which would have been too occlusive], I bent the lower "ear" of the Z/Bar to clear the pushrod end on the inboard side. Pushrod had been lengthened to get better reach on a high- stepping Centerforce clutch. Be sure to use OEM style linkage clips (lmc p/n 30-1602) they look like a @ symbol in black spring steel. Cotter pins can fail if there's any wear in the clutch pedal lever/ clutch rod junction, under the dash. The hole in the lever end opens up as the metal on the clutch rod grinds away. With the right OEM style '@' clips, it won't come apart on the street. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  10. Tims72

    Tims72 Registered Member

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    BluThndr71JMMY,
    Thanks for the info. I have already had some of those problems with my clutch linkage. Now I will be able to fix those at the same time I install the headers. If you can get some pics for me that would be great.
    Tim
     
  11. Big Sean E

    Big Sean E Registered Member

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    I went with Flowtechs ceramic coated headers. I have an auto trans so I don't know if any mods would be needed on a manual. They've performed well, but they've showed signs of corrosion after one winter. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  12. BluThndr71JMMY

    BluThndr71JMMY 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry I don't have a digital camera. I used a buddy's for 1 or 2 posts on the '67/'72 board, but his cat has since broken it. I know I do have this tendency to ramble on abstractly, and pics would lessen the ambiguity. I'll look around for a camera I can borrow.
     
  13. TED

    TED Registered Member

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    I just finished installing Doug Thorley's today. They look great but I'll have to wait till I get down to the exhaust shop to tell you about performance. I had a major problem with Z bar clearance as well. I ended up cutting off the bottom arm and welding it back on closer to the frame. The flange is really thick so leaks shouldn't be a huge problem (I hope), I can send you pics if you like.
    Jeff
     
  14. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I am running Hedmen Elite serries on my 72 w/sm465.
    I use to run the thin version hedmen and they warped in 5yrs time. The Elite series are super thick and have an aluminum color coating(hasent changed color yet). My starter comes in and out just fine with out unbolting the hedder. My Z bar clears fine too after I moved the frame mount tward the back 1/2". Basically that bracket that is on the frame for the Z bar ball to bolt too.....I drilled a new hole tward the back and all works great.
    I like the Hedmens cuz they fit nice and high up to the frame so rocks and such have a harder time hitting them..
    Good luck /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  15. BluThndr71JMMY

    BluThndr71JMMY 1/2 ton status

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    So I've got a year to look for some real headers, before my hedders give out?Hmm.
     
  16. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Tim....my truck is an automatic, but I am using Hedman P/N 69230. They fit great and have been problem free. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  17. Tims72

    Tims72 Registered Member

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    Thanks for all of the input. Any of you that can send pics that would be great. I just need to get an idea of how much work this clutch linkage thing is going to be and what I will need to buy to do it. My blazer is a daily driver, so anything I do has to be able to be done with in a weekend. I think for the price and what I have heard from you guys and the guys on the 67-72 site I will go with the Headmen headers. Please send pics to tschwab@princeton.navy.mil.
    Thanks again,
    Tim
     
  18. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    My buddy has a set of Hooker Super Comps on his 5-speed (NV4500) Blazer. No problems with fit other than the driver's side collector hangs low, so that he bent the header up a little with a floor jack. He had Hedmans for a short while, but they did not clear the Z-bar worth a darn. He had Thorleys too, and they didn't clear the Z-bar well, but better than the Hedmans (if they were dented pretty good).
     
  19. bouncytruck

    bouncytruck 1/2 ton status

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    I've got Flow-Tech headers on mine. They came on the truck. I think they are probably the cheapest available, although I haven't had any problems with them.
     
  20. therobzilla

    therobzilla 1/2 ton status

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    Tim,

    Just an FYI, don't run the Dynomax if you are planning on doing any serious wheeling. The collectors hang down at the same spot as the front shackles. It's a real pain if you plan on doing any type of real wheeling.

    I had a set of the ceramic coated one and the lasted great, and had no problems with the flanges, they actually worked very well other than the clearance issues near the shackles.

    I ended up going with a pair of stock manifolds and running a y pipe and used 3" all the way out, and changed to single exhuast. Much easier to deal with under the truck. Lost some of the high end umph, but gained a bunch of bottom end umph.

    What ever pair you use, just make sure they don't hang down real low, at least higher than the rear shackles, other wise they catch on everything on the trail.

    Good luck, hope this helps.

    Rob
     

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