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Heater/AC Control

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by daleearnhardt01, Nov 2, 2003.

  1. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Broke the fan speed chrome knob off yesterday while putting my dash bezel back on. Can I buy a new one or do I have to figure out a way to reattach it. Its still got enough of a knub for me to be able to adjust the fan speed so if its not possible to fix it then no big deal. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Also air likes to come out of all the holes no matter what setting its on. Any ideas?

    Well looks like I could buy a new knob but the problem is that I broke the piece that the knob attaches to. Oh well.
     
  2. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Mine is EXACTLY the same, broke the little chrome piece off a long time ago. I just move what is left and My vents leak air too. I think it has to do with the fresh air/recycle air system.
     
  3. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah its not that big a deal and I dont feel like diggin through all the vents and vaccum hoses and stuff to get leak problem fixed
     
  4. 77fixer

    77fixer 1/2 ton status

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    The fan speed switch is a seperate piece. The difference is in A/C vs. non-A/C. Either will work but I don't think you will get Max A/C without the correct switch. The heater-only switch lacks a power connection to the heater/AC slider.
     
  5. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Yup your right! I went out there today to piddle arounda and took the whole control out and was able to see that the fan speed switch and knob thing is separate. Im happy now. Now I need to look at the serivce manual to see where the vaccum lines are supposed to go...im missing two..I think.
     
  6. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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  7. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    This came off ChevyDuty's website. Its for 84-87 pickups, doesnt say anything about Non A/C or A/C. This is the part I need right? Id have to get the chrome knob too, it looks like.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    also there were two non-a/c switches, HD heater and non-HD heater
    HD had lo med hi off and normal had lo med hi
     
  9. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    A while ago I had a post going that did a pretty good job of explaining how the vacuum-operated diverter doors work on an AC-equipped truck. I'll do a search and see if I can find it.

    Click HERE to see the post I was talking about. I hope this helps you out, brother!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Awesome man /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  12. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    BTW, I thought I'd mention that I did the exact same thing- I broke the chrome tip off the fan speed control arm putting my instrument panel bezel back on after I did the repair in the link I provided. Kim stopped complaining about it after a couple of days so I never bothered repairing it........ /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  13. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    So do I take the dashpad off to do this or do I have to crawl up under the dash somehow? Thanks man. Oh In your other thread I see that it is a dealer item. Do you know what its called?
     
  14. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Nope. There's no reason to remove the dashpad. The only reason I had it off is because the job started as an instrument panel light replacement effort and morphed into the heater thing. Dual repairs happen to me all the time...... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

    You're gonna have to take all the black plastic air piping off the bottom of the dash to get to all the diverters. I believe you have to take the glovebox out as well.

    I don't recall the name of the clip, but when I started describing it to the dealer parts guy, he knew what I was talking about. Just let him know that it's a little white clip that's about 3/4 of an inch long and attaches to the actuator rod that opens and closes the heat distribution box. He should be able to find it on one of his breakdown diagrams.
     
  15. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Cool man, thanks for the info. Sounds like another project for when I go home in a few weeks. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I just put in new bulbs in my cluster and painted the black plastic thing with that chrome paint...what a difference. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  16. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Heres a picture, can you tell me what # that is the problem? [​IMG]
     
  17. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    It looks to me like your diagrams are from a non-AC setup. There is no defroster cable(#51) in the AC setup. The clip I've mentioned is also not shown- it must be on a different breakdown.

    Here's a question: when you change from floor to defrost can you hear a "hissing" sound followed by a subtle "thunk"? If you can't hear the hiss you may have a problem with your vacuum line that feeds the controller. If you hear the hiss but no thunk there's a good chance that your diverter door is the problem.

    The best advice I can give you is to get the air tubing off below the dash and take a good look at everything while reading through that post I linked to. I'm sure when you see it it will make more sense.
     
  18. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Interesting... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif Yup thats what Ill have to do...just dig in and see what the deal is.
     

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