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HELP!! Caddy calipers aint doing the job, parking brake

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by arq, Sep 5, 2002.

  1. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

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    anyone have problems with caddy calipers on a 14FF. put them on there from a 76 caddy and adjusted the parking brake cable. they wont hold the blaze worth a caca when i set them. /forums/images/icons/confused.gif /forums/images/icons/mad.gif /forums/images/icons/frown.gif

    ARQ.
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    If you have an auto, use park.

    If you have a manual, put it in gear.

    Forget you even have a parking brake because most of us don't have one.
     
  3. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    I've head quite a few people comment on this. You'll have to gain leverage in the pivot of the e brake or build it into the undercarriege with a 50/100 lever. One inch of ebrake cable pull would then equal 2 inches of actual cable pull. You follow?
     
  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Even with the adjuster tightened all the way down the brakes won't hold?

    Those caddies were boats, I'd be comfortable saying even a 5000lb K5 would hold fine with them, if working correctly. (of course, a lot of you are well over that : )
     
  5. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    The movement of the cable is half that of the Caddilac so the rears only partially engage.
     
  6. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

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    Is anyones caddy ebrake actually holding up like it should??

    ARQ.
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    So if it moves only half as far, it must mean the pedal assembly itself is setup differently, and must start pulling "sooner" as you push the pedal, right?

    Does the e-brake lever on the caliper move about 90*? Haven't looked at mine in awhile, but I think that lever CAN move 90*, has anyone crawled under their truck to make sure that the lever ISN'T traveling the full distance? Of course, if it is, pad thickness could be a problem, and I guess with the design, if you don't "ratchet" the pads close to the rotor before attaching the e-brake, even with full lever travel, it still wouldn't be tight....

    Wonder if the cadi e-brake pedal setup interchanges with the truck. It would have to be the whole thing probably, as the major pieces are riveted together IIRC.
     
  8. drivelineman

    drivelineman 1/2 ton status

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    it might be time for a driveline e-brake- Jess
     
  9. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

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    I'll check and see if it does go the full 90*
    if not, I'll just have to stick it in gear /forums/images/icons/frown.gif

    ARQ.
     
  10. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Any update on how those caddy calipers are working?
    Did ya get the e brake problem fixed?
    I'm looking into doing the same swap, but i've heard that the caddy calipers won't hold. Makes sense about the 50/100 lever setup.
     
  11. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Well Jesse do you have one for a NP203? Would it work with a stock driveshaft? My shaft is a little on the short side. An inch longer would get me back in line. Heck I could move my axle back an inch if I needed too.
    I'm in the same boat. I was going to go line locks For short periods, they work but I drive my truck maybe once a week. I sure would not trust a line lock for that period of time. I have rebuilt a tranny. I really don't trust a Parking pawl after seeing how little there is too one. I would rather have a mechanical brake simply incase I had some sort of failure and lost presure in the braking system. . I can make a Bell crank to double the throw of the cable if that solves the problem on the Caddi calipers but I'm open to other ways to do this.
     
  12. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I think the caddy caliper ebrakes could work good...
    What about that driveshaft ebrake... what if you brake your pinion u joint in the worst, steep, off camber spot...
    The caddy caliper ebrakes would still hold ya and the driveshaft ebrake wouldn't. Unlikely, but still possible.
    If you twist your driveshaft, you don't have an ebrake.
    I kinda like the idea of the ebrake holding the rotors and tires instead of the driveshaft. I'd rather have the ebrake as close to holding the tires as i could. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  13. FLASHLIGHT76

    FLASHLIGHT76 1/2 ton status

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    Well I got my rear e-brake calipers form Black birds custom trucks. Randy told me to use the Cadi's brakes as a reference so I don't know if thats were they come form. Mine came with a lever which hangs down about3 inches. I welded a 3/8 in tab to te axle housing and ran the cable straight in line with the lever, not off to the side where te backing plate is. I still have all the adjustability in the world and mine hold fine. I can even use them for e-brake skids. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  14. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    And where is the picture of this set up? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
    As for the drive shaf t brake. Well in a wheeling situation if you lost a shaft you would still have a Parking brake if your in 4x4. It would hold the front wheels through the transfercase.
    The other bennifit is there is actully more holding power available with a drive shaft mounted brakes because of the gear reduction at the diff.
     
  15. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    I think I have an idea on what flashlight is talking about. He welded a tab inline with the lever on the caliper so that it actuates similar to the calipers on a mountain bike. The cable has a stationary point to pull from. Is this correct flashlight?
     

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