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Help!!! Can't Turn Off My 6.2! ('86)

Discussion in '1982-Present GM Diesel' started by uglytruk, Apr 28, 2005.

  1. uglytruk

    uglytruk 1/2 ton status

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    I just picked up my '86 'Burb and after sitting for 1 1/2 years, (158k), it runs OK. Banks sidewinder is fun, buuutttttttt, it doesn't turn off when you turn the key backwards. Usaually a few flicks of the key, and she dies. But last night, no luck. I finally figured out to pull the 12g. red(?) wire off the top of the pump. Did it again when I got home. The radio and warning lights work as if the switch (top of steering column) is doing its job. Seatbelt buzzer was cycling etc. I believe the fuel cut-off solenoid is sticking. Maybe not, pulling power works instantly, two electric contacts on ign. switch? Any ideas???
     
  2. rugger03

    rugger03 1/2 ton status

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    no, idea....just didn't want you to think we were gaffing you off and not reading your post. I could be wrong but i think there are different pins in your ignition that could affect that.
     
  3. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    Do you have a test light? Check to see if there is still any power to that wire when you shut it off. If you still have power, it is probably in the ignition system somewhere. If the solenoid was sticking, pulling that wire would not change anything and it would keep running anyway.
     
  4. steve_kibbe

    steve_kibbe 1/2 ton status

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    I had the same problem in my truck, I made it die by puttung it in 4th and slowly let the clutch out. It did it three or four times, then went away. Never had another problem out of it. Couldn't find a problem because it quit doing it. :dunno:
     
  5. uglytruk

    uglytruk 1/2 ton status

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    Starter saga continues. what a long week it's been....

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    So I left off with the cheapie Taiwan solenoid burning up because the starter wouldn' t disengage once the engine started. The Die Hards are weak, and I had to panic and get the cables off. So I went to the local starter shop and got a drive end bushing for the spare starter a friend gave me. And I bought (from starter shop) the gear reduction "new" 6.5 unit for $125. Apparently the engine was blown, so just a few finger prints. On it went, and same problem. Balky disengagement when cranking, and kept spinning once started, not good! One shim, then two, then three, then I pulled a few threads out of the block. Things are getting good, huh? A longer bolt, and now it doesn't engage the flywheel, or something. So off it came, and I ran over to Auto Zone for one of their "gold" solenoids. I was hoping to find a copper contact disc inside, but maybe I'm dreaming. So next to NAPA for an ECHLIN ultra super whammo $42 baby. No copper disc. I wonder what makes it "better"? More windings in the coil??? But I couldn't install a $$42 jobbie. Soooooo, I scrounged through my starter pile and found a minimally used solenoid, re-soldered a loose wire and installed it on the donated starter, no shims, and easy on that stipped thread. And it cranked big time! YEAH!!! Even with only one battery. So what was wrong before? The shift fork on the gear unit was behind the drive. Bendix couldn't retract, so kept spinning with flywheel. Never seen that in 25 years. Not good! Wonder how that happenned? Starter shop is closed for a week. I also pulled the ignition (electric) switch off the top of the steering column. It looked a little toasted inside, so I opened up a unit from a '90 Pontiac 6000, exactly the same. A little better shape, and on it went. Let's see if it continues to run even when key turnd off. The metalic powder inside the old switch may have conducted a little power to prevent me from shutting 'er down. Time will tell...
     
  6. rd durham

    rd durham Registered Member

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    I also have a similar problem with an '84 Blazer owned by my younger sister and I confess about not being too knowledgeable about diesels. We dropped in a low miles 6.2 into her Blazer that had come out of a CUCV Blazer. The motor had been in outdoor storage for two years. I have what I believe are some sticking injectors, grey smoke out the exhaust, but also a problem with the engine running on after the key is turned off. Pulling the pink wire on the injector pump makes no difference. With or without the pink wire pulled, eventually the engine will start running rough and then die. Engine will restart but takes some cranking.
     

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