Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Help! Gear box replacement

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Pookster, Apr 18, 2001.

  1. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2000
    Posts:
    3,195
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NYC, NY, USA
    Ok, need help here guys cause chilton stinks. My gear box is wearing out big time, and so is my drag link. Its getting scary to drive the K5 on the road. How hard is it for the weekend mechanic to replace it? Anyone have any steps or instructions to help me out? Repairs are getting costly!
     
  2. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,857
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Long Beach, CA.
    It is very easy to replace, just take off the hydraulic lines, the steering shaft, the pitman arm and the 4 bolts to the frame and it comes right off. Installation is reverse of removal. For the draglink if you are replacing the rod ends, you'll need a pickle fork to remove those. Other than that its cake.
     
  3. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    May 9, 2000
    Posts:
    8,126
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    FL
    Also, take note to where you steering and draglink is lined up so you dont have to do alot of guess adjusting when bolting up the new draglink.

    Mike - <A target="_blank" HREF=http://emmett.coloradok5.com>http://emmett.coloradok5.com</A>[​IMG]
     
  4. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2000
    Posts:
    3,195
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NYC, NY, USA
    not to sound moronic, but the shaft is held in by two screws that have like a round disk at the end?

    I was hearing that the pitman arm needed an air hammer to remove? Is this the case?

    Also, what torque do I bolt everything back on to?

    sorry for so many silly questions, the least I can do is write up a Tech tip. :)
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,980
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    Are you SURE your gear box is "worn out"? There isn;t much to wear in these things, and being constantly lubed, they should have very little wear after 100k miles+

    Go for the drag link first. Gear boxes are pretty expensive, and if you think yours is worn out, whats the point of buying another used one, have to go new, which should be around $250.

    My dads drag link was bad, and there was SOO much slop in that thing...I thought it was steering box, but it was all the drag link. There is a write up on tightening the steering box to account for wear anyways if you want it.


    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
     
  6. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2000
    Posts:
    3,195
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NYC, NY, USA
    The only reason I think that it is the gear box is when I turn the steering wheel, I hear a clinking noise as I go side to side. It goes in order, of:
    clink (guess the gear hit the other gear)
    wheel starts to turn.
    Turn the steering wheel the other way.
    clink
    wheel starts to turn the other way.

    I already tighteed up the gearbox. I guess I could do it again, but I mean, the "steering feel" is tight, but the "steering reaction" is slow.
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,980
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    You really need to get the front end off the ground, and have someone watch as you turn the wheel. There are a few joints/connections in there, that if loose or worn, could make noise and cause bad steering feel. Including the rag joint between the column and the gear box..I have seen those wear out numerous times.

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
     
  8. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,857
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Long Beach, CA.
    Dont count out the "clink" noise being your frame creaking from a possible crack that is there. I'd check EVERYTHING before replacing anything.
     
  9. elkboy

    elkboy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2000
    Posts:
    293
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Hillsboro Oregon
    Before you spend the bucks to replace parts, you might think about taking it to a frontend shop. For about $35.00 they will tell you what needs to be fixed. I know steering boxes are not cheap.

    [​IMG]<font color=red> Elkboy</font color=red> [​IMG]
     
  10. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2000
    Posts:
    3,195
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NYC, NY, USA
    Its not the frame. That was my big concern. Though I think the ORD frame brace is on order before I move to 33's.

    That aside, there is no acutal movement of the gearbox housing when turning the steering wheel.

    Im gonna check it tomorrow morning when there is some light.. Im gonna see if moving the steering wheel with the backand forth movement will acutally turn the pitman... my reasoning is, if the clinking is happening even before the pitman is moving, then it has to be within the gear box.
     
  11. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2000
    Posts:
    1,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sioux City, IA, USA
    Probably in need of some adjustments. Here's some stuff that will teak it right on up. First pull that box right on off the truck. Then leave that coupling on the back shaft so you got something to grab. Crank that rear shaft around and hold that box in a million different directions so the fluid is completely out. Than drop it into a bench vice and make sure its going to go anywhere. Then look on the back shaft where the steering shaft bolts to (we'll call this the little shaft). You will see a lock ring around it, get a punch and loosen it, left loosens. Now with that off you can adjust your bearing preload. You will see on the back of that round plug 2 holes. Use some spanners, big needle nose pliers or even a punch to loose it some. I just stuck a punch in one hole and hammered left. Than once it moves easy, tighten it up real good to the right. Now put a mark on the plug and one above it some where on the case. Now somewhere on the case measure back 1/2" from that mark you made and make another. The simple version is you want to move that plug back 1/2" Alright, make sure everything stays in place and put that lock ring back on.

    Now for setting your over center adjustment. Make sure the flat side of your little shaft is facing up and in the center(crank it from side to side, you'll find the center). OK, now you see that allen screw up top and that nut, loosen them. Back that allen bolt all the way out and than turn it in one full turn. Tighten that nut up but make sure the allen screw doesnt move. Now put a torque wrench on your little shaft, record that reading (need it inch pounds). Now just keep tighetning down that allen bolt (make sure lock nut is in place) until your torque wrench read 6-10 inch pounds higher than your first reading. You're done with the adjustments.

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.monte-list.nu/tech/boxmesh.shtml>http://www.monte-list.nu/tech/boxmesh.shtml</A>



    [​IMG]
     
  12. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2000
    Posts:
    3,325
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Federal Way, Washington
    how much is a drag link for a 78 blazer anyone???

    [​IMG]See me at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.inhomenetworking.com/78jimmy.htm>http://www.inhomenetworking.com/78jimmy.htm</A>
     
  13. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2000
    Posts:
    1,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sioux City, IA, USA
    With both ends and the sleeve its $70 from LMC. You could probably get it for a few bucks less if you want some where else.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2000
    Posts:
    3,719
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lubbock, TX
    I got the draglink parts from O'Reilly - Moog parts. They are the best and have a lifetime warranty. I bought new tierods at the same time, so dont know the cost, maybe $70-$80.

    90K5

    See my truck at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502</A>
     

Share This Page