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Help I don't have brakes!!!!!!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by mr_beer, Feb 23, 2005.

  1. mr_beer

    mr_beer 1/2 ton status

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    I had to change a brake line from the master to p. valve, now I can't seem to get the brakes bleeded. I have tried all 4 bleeders and still I have no brake pedal.

    When I start the truck and push the brake pedal down it stays down. Even if I pull up on the pedal it won't come up. When I kill the truck the pedal slowly comes back up. I don't know if the master is bad or what the hell is going on.

    PLEASE HELP, I pissed and ready to pull an RJ and shoot it:mad:
     
  2. ssls6

    ssls6 Registered Member

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    Try bleeding the mastercyclinder. You may need to push back and forth just a small amount (but a bunch of times) to get the air to come out of the piston. There should be a bleeder on the proportioning valve.
     
  3. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Tell me Hank,why do ya drink--why do you roll smoke!!

    It sounds like your master cylinder took a dump --the seals on the piston inside it might have torn if the pedal went all the way to the floor,the bore in the master gets rusty and crud builds up at the bottom of the travel where the piston never rides when the brakes are operating normally--once a line pops it goes to the floor,and the piston seals hit the rusty crud filled area and get trashed sometimes--when bleeding the brakes its best not to force the pedal all the way down for this reason--if it wont return by itself,something is amiss inside the master cylinder,I'd say...

    Nice Avitar by the way!!---I like Hank Jr.'s tunes too!:D
     
  4. mr_beer

    mr_beer 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, I was afraid it would be the master cylinder. I just wanted to get second opinion. THANKS :thumb:
     
  5. mr_beer

    mr_beer 1/2 ton status

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    really pissed off

    Well changed the master cylinder today, and I still have the same problem. Could it be the booster maybe. Somebody please help me, because I'll all out of ideals:mad:
     
  6. mr_beer

    mr_beer 1/2 ton status

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    ttt, i really need some help here!!!!!!!
     
  7. darkshadow

    darkshadow 1 ton status

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    dumb question first did you bench bleed?
     
  8. RustyMule

    RustyMule Registered Member

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    You have bled it correctly I assume. I noticed that, when I was bleeding mine after putting in the longer brake lines, I did the usual 3 pump-n-hold way and the master would just stick down. I found out that when the master goes all the way down, it may stick there even if it's brand new. Give the master a gentle whack (yes, a whack) on the side with the wrench yer using to bleed with. I have noticed that it "unsticks" the plunger. I know somebody's gonna give me crap about that, but sometimes things need a smack to get movin.:D I have done it before.

    p.s. - A booster wouldn't cause that problem. If the booster dies the pedal is ROCK solid
     
  9. mr_beer

    mr_beer 1/2 ton status

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    I have put in master cylinders before and never have bench bleed one. I have always put them and bleed lines and down the road with no problems. How do you bench bleed a master cylinder?
     
  10. mr_beer

    mr_beer 1/2 ton status

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    I'm about ready to whack it with something alot harder than a bleeder wrench, more like a BFH!!!
     
  11. dontoe

    dontoe 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Just put one in last week.

    Set in a vise...install caps...fill with fluid......take blunt object and push in the piston............not to far....less than an inch the instructions said. Slowly push while tapping untill air quits bubbling up.
     
  12. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Close your eyes!

    Dont do what I did and look at the master cylinder while pumping the piston to bleed it--I did and it squirted right in my eyes!--:doah: there aint much worse than brake fluid in your eyes!...

    I'm suprised even the new master wont return on its own--I havent had a good one ever stick like that--are you sure nothing is binding in the pedal linkage??--the booster does have a return spring in it,but they rarely if ever break in my experience--its probably because you havent bench bled it yet,and its tight and dry in the bore--why the old one stuck the same way could be due to rust and crud in the bore like I said earlier(thats the usual cause)--but the new or rebuilt one should not stick like that..:confused: The only other thing I can think of is a bad brake hose acting as a one way valve,letting fluid go out to the calipers or wheel cylinders,put preventing it from releasing the pressure,but that would make the brakes drag and get hot...Anyone else got any ideas???:confused:
     
  13. mr_beer

    mr_beer 1/2 ton status

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    UPDATE!! Well I took the master cylinder off and checked it, it was already bleed. So, then I went to looking at the booster, with the master cylinder off. The damn pedal sticks down even with the master off. It won't stick down though with the engine turned off, but will stick down with the engine runing.


    So, I'm going to have a booster first thing in the morning at NAPA. I'm hoping this will sovle all my problems.
     

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