Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Help in iraq

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by DumontsK5, Aug 13, 2006.

  1. DumontsK5

    DumontsK5 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2006
    Posts:
    59
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    williamsburg, VA
    I am in Iraq looking to order lockers and 4.56 gears can anyone tell me what came stock in a 1986 k5? is it 7.5 or 8.5? and how many spline?

    any help will be greatly appreciated!
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,977
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    8.5" 28 spline.

    If the trucks not the original to you, I might wait, since it's fairly common for those axles to be replaced. (so could be a 30 spline) Besides, if it's a gov-lock, that means you've got to get another carrier, right?
     
  3. DumontsK5

    DumontsK5 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2006
    Posts:
    59
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    williamsburg, VA
    hey man thanks i know the 1st owner he owner it 17 years so the axles havent been changed he didnt wheel with it! whats gov-lock?
     
  4. onetonbb74

    onetonbb74 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2005
    Posts:
    2,083
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Campbell, CA
    stock in an 85 k5 has 10 bolts front and rear. Rear 30 spline, front 28 spline both are 8.5" ring gears. The carrier gets removed in 10 bolts in place of a new locker, so gov bomb doesnt matter. Gov bomb is a factory locker in the rear of the truck it is a gov lock to be quite honest, they suck. code on the build sheet is G80. The only time you need a new carrier for a detroit is for 14 bolt full floaters. If your ordering new lockers front and rear with new gears make sure they sell you the correct part numbers for the gears that will be on there. If your ordering a new rear locker only and gears to match both axle's, you will then need a 4.10 and up open carrier for the front to make the front gears bolt up or buy thick gears to bolt to the existing carrier. do you know what gears are already in there?
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,977
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    "Corporate 10-bolt axles were upgraded to 30 spline axle shafts from previous 28 spline (1989-91)."

    http://www.coloradok5.com/specs.shtml
     
  6. DumontsK5

    DumontsK5 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2006
    Posts:
    59
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    williamsburg, VA
    I am looking into ordering 4.56 gears and a locker for the rear with a selectable for the front! you guys helped me out alot!

    the gears in there now are 3.73

    another question what is better a NP241 or a 208?
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,977
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    I believe most would consider the 241 slightly better, but probably not enough to swap the 208 for a 241 unless the 208 was broken.

    It's got some real advantages over the 208, but until you start talking about things like slip yoke eliminators, the 208 will probably be plenty good. :)
     
  8. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,030
    Likes Received:
    363
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    i wouldn't spend the $ on a 10 bolt rear... swap in a 6-lug semi-floating 14b rear. Its stronger and will bolt right in. The 10 bolt rear is pretty much the worst axle ever put in a full size truck... lockers + tires over 31" = ka-boom.

    241 is better... but as previously noted, unless you are going to use a SYE, if you have a working 208 now just keep it. Only thing wrong with the 208 is the crappy slip yoke. 241s have slip yoke stock also.. so no real gain in the swap unless you are going to change it to fixed. A fixed yoke 241 is a damn fine tcase... just skid plate it to protect the aluminum case from rocks!

    j
     
  9. DumontsK5

    DumontsK5 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2006
    Posts:
    59
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    williamsburg, VA
    Thats a good idea considering i just ordered 37"tires! where can i find a 14b semi-floating rear and what do i do to the front?
     
  10. Jackedup86GMC

    Jackedup86GMC Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2006
    Posts:
    64
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Southeast Texas
    If your going to swap axles go with a 14 bolt full floater. for the money it is the best axle for the rear. And if you look around you might find one with a Detroit and 4.56 gears already. That would save $$$.
     
  11. SkulzNBonz

    SkulzNBonz 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2002
    Posts:
    4,522
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    OKC, Oklahoma
    I bought a 14bff with 4.56 and detroit w/ ~ 30000 miles for $500 when I bought mine. Definately cheaper in the long run.

    John
     
  12. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,030
    Likes Received:
    363
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    yes, but going with a ff14b requires new wheels and stuff also. The ff14b is the best common rear axle you'll find for a chevy... but it isn't a bolt in swap. Something to consider. If you don't mind the extra work and buying new wheels, sure, go for the ff14b. Its what I run.

    I guess the key is, no matter what you do, don't pour $$$ into a 10 bolt rear axle.

    Front axle is up to you... is 37" tires going to be the limit? If so, chromo shafts/joints etc will keep a 10 bolt alive. If you are going to eventually run tires bigger than 37s... or run hardcore rocks, save yourself the $ and just go Dana 60 now.

    j
     
  13. DumontsK5

    DumontsK5 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2006
    Posts:
    59
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    williamsburg, VA
    im running 37"s for now if anything ill stay at a 35 or 37 no bigger im tring to keep it legal so i guess ill build up the 10 bolt! i dont do anything major! just muddin and trailin to camp! thats all! ill just carry some extra shafts and parts with me!
     
  14. CB77GMC

    CB77GMC 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    May 6, 2005
    Posts:
    771
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Heath Springs, SC
    You could put a Lockright auto locker in the Front 10b about $200 I think. I run 35's and have had no problems.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2006
  15. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,030
    Likes Received:
    363
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    if that is the case, yeah... keep the front 10-bolt. I'd still swap in a sf14b rear though... definitely stronger than a stock 10-bolt, good ground clearance etc. Not sure what lockers are available for the sf14b... but lockers + 10-bolt rear = kaBoom. The other alternative would be to leave your 10 bolt rear open-diff... that'd work too.

    Its your rig.. do what ya want... I just can't recommend putting a bunch of coin into a 10b rear. Regear + locker is gonna be quite a bit of $...

    j
     
  16. DumontsK5

    DumontsK5 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2006
    Posts:
    59
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    williamsburg, VA
    well i ran across a 14bff with 4.56/detroit locker/ and had a disk brake conversion so i scarfed it up its brand new for 750$ !! Was that a deal? now how much work do i have to do to swap it out with the stock 10 bolt?
     
  17. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,030
    Likes Received:
    363
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    if its new its a good price. I actually paid $700 for a brand new ff14b with 4.56s/detroit but regular old drum brakes. ;)

    At any rate, how much work it will require depends on the ff14b. Some have spring perches in the "right" spot, others don't and they will have to be moved. Its not hard... lots of grinder action will get the factory one off... and you can get brand new fabricated ones cheap (DIY / Ruffstuff in the vendor forums!). Just need to weld 'em on.

    j
     
  18. DumontsK5

    DumontsK5 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2006
    Posts:
    59
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    williamsburg, VA
    the guy who sold it to me swaped it around for me! do i need to order a new yoke for it or will the stock drive shaft bolt right up to it!?
     
  19. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,030
    Likes Received:
    363
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    you will probably need a conversion u-joint for the time being... after that you should convert your driveshaft, not the ff14b... its yoke is larger.

    j
     
  20. BKinzey

    BKinzey 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2006
    Posts:
    3,145
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Hollywierd, CA
    Ya found the Guy I was going to suggest. He answered several questions for me so he should help out and actual buyer.

    BTW, this guy is getting new 14b from Mil surplus and using his disc convert parts. They also come with Detroit Lockers installed:laugh:

    Great deal unless you ship to Los Angeles. $450:eek1::rolleyes:
     

Share This Page