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Help me out, major dilema here with lift, tires, body, etc.

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 84_Chevy_K10, Jun 7, 2002.

  1. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Here's my problem. I have a 4" lift now. I really wanted a 6" and everyone talked me out of it. I wish they hadn't now, but that's in the past. I have 35x12.50R15 BFG M/Ts on 15x10 US Wheels with 4 1/8" backspacing right now.

    I am planning on buying a set of 38x12.50x15 TSLs next year.

    I am doing a frame swap as we speak, my truck will be back on the other frame and on the road by the end of the summer. I don't have unlimited cash supply, either. Since I'm doing the frame swap, I'm going to install a 3" body lift right now.

    So, that leaves me with 7" of lift and 35s now, not so bad. But, I need new rear springs. One of mine is broken from the accident. Since I don't even like my 4" lift as-is, I don't want to buy 4" springs (unless I should choose to do a shackle flip, make that 8" suspension, and buy 8" front springs).

    But then I end up with 8+3, 11" of lift, which is rather large for a shortbed. Plus, an 8" lift is probably going to be rough on U joints in a short wheelbase truck.

    The problem is, as of now, I have a truck in the garage with no bed. I have a 4 speed for it, but I have to have the flywheel turned and get a new clutch. I need at least a rear driveshaft as well because I don't have one. I have a frame for it that I need to swap my body onto. I have $1500 in the bank that I've saved and I want to get my truck fixed and back on the road, but I don't want to end up having done all this work and regretted not going one way or another. I need bigger tires as it is, my friends all have 38-44" tires and they're burying me down in the woods.

    I need opinions.

    <FORM METHOD=POST ACTION="http://coloradok5.com/forums/dopoll.php"><INPUT TYPE=HIDDEN NAME="pollname" VALUE="102348387484_Chevy_K10">


    What would you do?

    <INPUT TYPE=RADIO NAME=option VALUE="1">Leave it 4 + 3 for now with some used stock springs and a shackle flip

    <INPUT TYPE=RADIO NAME=option VALUE="2">Same as above, but buy 6" springs for the rear and use ORD zero rates up front (which gives me 5" front, 6" rear) I would prefer for it to sit level

    <INPUT TYPE=RADIO NAME=option VALUE="3">Do and 8" all spring lift right now and forget the body lift since I run mud and I need to get the bumpers/frame as far from the ground as possible

    <INPUT TYPE=RADIO NAME=option VALUE="4">Do 8" all spring and 3" body and never worry about tire clearance until I get 44s and 1 ton axles

    <INPUT TYPE=RADIO NAME=option VALUE="5">Buy a 6" lift, all spring, and add the 3" body later when I get my 38s

    <INPUT TYPE=RADIO NAME=option VALUE="6">I'd do something entirely different and I'll mention exactly what I'd do in my post
    <INPUT TYPE=Submit NAME=Submit VALUE="Submit vote" class="buttons"></form>
     
  2. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    Doesn't ORD sell a 2.5 shackle filp??? You could do that so you dont' have to get an 8" lift. I have 6" front springs, and 2.5" springs in the rear with the ORD flip. I run 35's right now, without a sway bar and i still had to cut the fenders. In a year I plan on running 42's with the same lift and either a 1" or 2" body lift. I don't want this thing to be more top heavy with a huge lift. So whatever the bodylift won't clear, the saws all, torch, and welder will! I know this will work because i have seen people with 44's and only a 4" lift!! Later - Doug
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    The thing is, I WANT the 8" lift. Getting the frame off the ground is good for a mud runner. I may also pull with this truck, that's what I'm thinking. So, having the 8" springs will control axlewrap and give me good frame/bumper clearance in the mud. Then I can only get hung up on my axles. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
    &lt;br&gt;
    &lt;br&gt;The way I look at it, since I have to buy rear springs, (and they're VERY expensive) I might as well just get a whole lift system. Plus I can sell my 4" front springs to someone. I save $100 from not buying a body lift and spend an extra $200 or so to buy a whole lift system.
    &lt;br&gt;
    &lt;br&gt;For the 8" lift, what kind? Skyjacker, Superlift, BDS, and I think Rough Country all make 8" springs. Pro-comp does too.
    &lt;br&gt;
    &lt;br&gt;I don't care if they're a little stiff, since I'm trying to control axlewrap. Which springs would you guys get?
    &lt;br&gt;
    &lt;br&gt;I'm hoping this is the last time I fart around with suspension. I'm probably going to buy all ORD greasable stuff eventually too, unless you guys know a cheaper way to get all greasable equipment.
     
  4. blk87K5

    blk87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I am not knocking ORD's greasable bushings, I have them on my truck, but if you have a tap and die set and a drill press, you can make them yourself. The only exspense you are out then is grease zerks. It sounds like you are on a limited budget, so if you have the time then go for it.
     
  5. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    Just replace the 4" lift springs that are broken for now. When you're ready to go to 8" lift put a ORD shackle flip in the back and have the 8" lift you want. /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif
     
  6. luk3

    luk3 1/2 ton status

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    just keep 4 inch, get shackle flip, ditch the body lift,cut the fenders.
     
  7. luk3

    luk3 1/2 ton status

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    i had a 3 inch body on my 73' 3/4 ton, not a big fan of them, casued some steering problems, and higher center of grav is no good
     
  8. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    i like what krebs said. 2.5 inch shackle flip in the rear. also i would put a 1in zero rate in the front and push the axle foreward 1.5 inches. giving you more clearence for those 38+ tires. that is what i plan on doing, but i am also doing a buggy spring. i dont run mud. i have a buddy with 8 inches and 35's... i know you plan on running 38+ in the future, but it looks stupid as hell with 35's
    on top of that if you are doing a body lift just go with a one or 2 inc. 3 is to much for my preferance.
    grant
     
  9. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    That's all fine and dandy--but I'm not so sure I want to do a shackle flip if I'm going to pull with this thing. My friends that have 'flips all have major axlewrap. What do you think?
     
  10. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    If you're having problems with spring/ axle wrap then have a spring shop make you a special overload spring. One that's long and heavy to the front and ends just past the U bolt/ spring perch in the back. This would act like the slaper bars drag racers run to control spring wrap.
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I don't have problems now, but I bet I will with that sled behind me.
     
  12. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    Well if you're building a puller truck then you might want to tink about going to some ladder bars or 4 link if your class will allow them. If not then do the heavy overload spring and have the spring shop punch a hole in it near thhe front. Then you could put a small poly bump stop in the hole to adjust when it hits.
     
  13. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Stick with the 4" springs up front.
    Put some used stock springs in the rear and a 4" shackle flip
    1" AAL's front and rear to move the axle to where you want it for tire clearance.
    Trim fenders. No body lift.
     
  14. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    My friends that have 'flips all have major axlewrap.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    <font color="blue">Build traction bars. If you are pulling a sled then it's a good idea no matter how much lift you have

    I would go with 8" springs in front, and 4" springs in the rear with a shackle flip
     
  15. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I'm not building a puller truck, but since I have a 4 speed now, I don't mind pulling with my mud runner truck. I just don't want it to hop too much.
     
  16. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    This is what I'm thinking now. Maybe I don't really want 38s as bad as I think. I am thinking that I'd rather spend the money on a front locker than suspension. So:

    4" flip out back (2wd spring hanger and JC Whitney lowering shackle. 1" zero rate) I'll just pick up a used spring. I have one good one.

    Keep the 4" Ranchos and add a zero rate

    3" body

    Keep the 35s I have now and in the future, buy another set of 35s or 36s. I'm going to ditch my swaybar until I can get disconnects. Screw pulling with this truck, I'll do that with another truck. I can use flex and having lockers in both ends to follow my big friends in the woods--and show them up. Imagine seeing a shortbox with 35s and 8" of lift that can crawl where all the trucks with 11-15" of lift and 39-44 inchers couldn't make it. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
    Plus, I can keep my 3/4 ton axles forever if I stay with 35s, which doesn't make me feel so bad about spending money on my front 10 bolt.
    I'm going to make this truck pretty. It's my first car and my baby. I'll buy a longbed to paint camo and put huge tires on.
     

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