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Help me prep my rig for paint...PLZ!!!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 90idahoblazer, Feb 12, 2002.

  1. 90idahoblazer

    90idahoblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Blazer Buds,

    First off I would like to thank all of you for the inputs on the cost of a paint job...Well here goes..The Cheapest quote I got was 2 grand. I think That I could prep it myself and save some cash...My wife fortunately loves to help do stuff like that...However I dont have any experiance doing body work...
    So Im asking for your help....I would like to know what is the best way to strip and prep the truck...What Im looking for is what grit sand paper to use with my air sander???...should I use a liquid stripper???
    The Body on my rig is straight as an arrow, no dents, one small spot of rust on the top of the tail gate. The reason I want to paint it is because the whole thing is weather checked...I know that those areas have to be taken down to the bare metal..Any inputs would be appreciated...

    Tom
     
  2. 87superblaze

    87superblaze 1/2 ton status

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    OK, first of all I am no expert at painting but I did do a few trucks before. I highly suggest getting more info than what I give you. Try to find a book on painting and body work. Use a good respirator or at least the cheapie white dust masks that cover your mouth and nose. Blow your nose after sanding! It sounds a little funny but that is some nasty s^^t! My dad almost died from doing body work with out respiratory equipment.

    The sand paper you should start off with woukd be 100 for any rough areas like around rust or some where around cracked paint. The paint job really depends on how good of a job you sand it down. When you sand the rust area, try to get down to bare metal but don't push too hard with 100. It may leave scratches that you may not be able to get out.

    Try to "feather" or in other words blend in the rust area with the rest of the paint. If you only sand in one spot, there will be a noticable "dent" or hole where the rust was so try to gradually sand outward to eliminate an edge. Sorry wish I could explain it better!

    After your problem areas are taken care of, switch to 220or something around there. You don't need to sand off all the paint, just rough it up so the primer will stick. Be carefull around the edges of metal. try not to get down to bare metal if possible. Primer doesn't stick well to smooth bare metal.

    Pick up some paint thinner and wipe down the whole surface to be painted to get rid of any dirt, greese, or dust. It must be clean. WASH YOUR HANDS EVERY TIME YOU WORK ON THE TRUCK. ANY oil on the body will ruin the whole paint job. believe me you don't want to do this twice.

    Use good quality masking tape. Around windows and such, use two strips of tape. One piece is laid down to mask off the edges and the second piece attaches the paper to the first piece.

    Hopefully this will get you started. maybe someone else could add to it. Reply if you have any questions, I'll try to help!

    GOOD LUCK!

    For your information. the paint for my truck cost me about $300 plus the sand paper and tack cloth. Luckily my dad has all the equipment to paint so we did it ourselves. Turned out real nice!! If you can spray paint with a rattle can you can prabably paint a vehicle. It isn't as hard as everyone may think. The hardest part is prep. Had my truck painted in 1 weekend. Friday-finishing prep. Saturday morning-primer approx 1.5 Hrs. Sunday morning-paint approx 3 Hrs.

    &lt;P ID="edit"&gt;&lt;FONT class="small"&gt;&lt;EM&gt;Edited by 87superblaze on 02/12/02 12:39 PM.&lt;/EM&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/P&gt;<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by 87superblaze on 02/12/02 02:34 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  3. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    I'm no expert but I have gone through my truck's body and numerous other vehicles. I just need to learn the fine points of mixing paints and how to hang panels and I should be pretty confident in the whole paint/body area. Have patience and don't try to drive the vehicle while you get it ready. IMO body and paint guys are real artists... and art takes experience and time.

    Well I guess I would say it depends what you have to work with. Do you have rust? If you do I would think about just leaving it to a professional. Even they have a hard time with it. I know rust all too well living here in MN. If you do want to try and battle it yourself, try to grind or cut it all out and weld in new metal if you can. If not use ortho on it a couple of times after you gring away all that you can. Then I suggest a product like POR-15 or Zerorust over it to help combat bubbles soon down the road. You will then probably need a primer by that company to go over there product. Then do the work to get her smooth.

    In terms of stripping... I like using a DA. Works great. Chemical stripper is a pain... and is nasty. It also may or maynot be legal to use outside. In terms of grit... you'll need just about everything... from a 40-60 grit for nasty spots to 220 or so towards the end. Read up on dent pulling... it isn't hat hard to do you just have to take the time to learn and experiment. Learn how to use bondo. And get the right type for the job. Body filler is a great product when used right. Remember the thiner the coat, the better. and never use it over cheap large areas of screening or you are asking for trouble.

    Strip off everything! Door handles, emblems, etc. etc. it is well worth your time as it will make the job look way better and 100 times easier. Just mask the windows, eng coompartment, cond./radator area, and hard top if you can.

    I agree with the idea to read read read... ask around with local shops. Remember that prep is about 95% of the work in getting a good paint job. You are only as good as the surface you have to paint on. Use your hands, eyes, and sometimes other methods work well for finding waves. I have known guys that use different kinds of lights etc., but most times a really colse eye and the feel with your hand won't lie.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>
     
  4. BigBadCad

    BigBadCad 1/2 ton status

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    You may not have to strip your truck entirely. You can rough the existing paint up with a fine 3M pad if it's in decent shape and lay down a coat of Epoxy Primer. I like using Epoxy primer for resto jobs because it seals the metal and old paint from the new paint very well. If you have some minor imprefections in the paint, smooth them out with with 220 DA then finish it with 400 DA or block before priming. I would advise against sanding through to bare metal unless you absolutely have to. Once the sanded panel is sealed with a primer, do a final wet sand with 400 before spraying paint.

    BTW, I hope you have a large compressor to run an air sander and if so, why don't you spray it yourself? You can do one hell of a DIY paint job for 2K and learn alot in the process.

    ? What does weather checked mean? faded, cracked, seperation...just wondering

    1980 chevy 4x4 1-ton crewcab, 500 caddy, York OBA...work in progress.
     
  5. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Your in luck, I have about 25 years of experiance, well to get started! Paint stripper can be a mess, but if you 2 in tape all your gaps and are carefull, stripping a truck can be a peice of cake, caution, the fumes can kill you!!! I would only use paint stripper if there is countless coats of paint!! A DA sander is anouther choice, using #80 grit, that works well also!! After stripping the panels, use a primer (Epoxy works the Best/ PPG DP 40 LF)!!! Remember, preping &amp; paint is a dirty job, so make sure you put on Particle mask!!! If you have any ??? give me a yell!!
     
  6. 90idahoblazer

    90idahoblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Im being told that weather checked means or looks like the paint is spydered you can almost see the primer between the cracks....I guess its caused by the sun and not taking care of the paint....Thanks gys for the paint prep info
     
  7. 90idahoblazer

    90idahoblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Im being told that weather checked means or looks like the paint is spydered you can almost see the primer between the cracks....I guess its caused by the sun and not taking care of the paint....Thanks guys for the paint prep info
     
  8. ben794X4

    ben794X4 Registered Member

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    let me know how it goes, I live ober in Nampa and will be doing the same thing this spring only I have a couple of friends who do body work and theyre gonna shoot it if I do the prep.

    79 4x4 k5 stock
    3spd granny stock 350
    12 bolt open rear
    10 bolt open front
    Subvert the accepted paradigm.
     
  9. BigTex

    BigTex 1/2 ton status

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    The current condition of your paint indicates how much work you'll have to do. I felt the same you you now feel so I did all the prepwork myself and then had Maaco paint it for me for 300 bucks.

    On areas where the paint is good it is not necessary to sand through the paint as long as there aren't multiple layers of paint on the body. You can also use a wire wheel or chemical paint stripper on areas that are cracked or where you can tell the paint is bad. These are some el-cheapo but effective methods.[​IMG]

    <font color=red>"DON'T TAKE LIFE TOO SERIOUSLY, YOU WON'T GET OUT ALIVE."</font color=red>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BigTex-Mean-Machine</a>
     
  10. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Cracked or checked paint, usually happens on vehicles painted with enamel or lacquer, they don`t last more than 3 to 5 years exposed to the elaments. I use Urathane paint systems, but if you don`t strip the Cranked or Checked paint, before you paint, it could come back to HAUNT you!!! Yes, Maaco does good work for the money and you can get a paint job for 299.95, they offer a paint called Westhane, it is a urathane, this is a Very durable paint, that is extremely glossy, I think its just a couple bucks more!!! If you want to see some pics of my gem, check out maddensales.com, I have my Black Blazer on that site, it has a cowl hood with flames!! I used all PPG on the outside finish and Westhane on the frame, inners and engine compartment!!! Don`t let anyone scare you, it sounds like your truck is an easy project!! Good Luck!!
     
  11. 90idahoblazer

    90idahoblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Again For All The Help Guys....Thats why I enjoy this site....Everyone in here gives their honest opinion and everyone has a great idea..some better than others .....but no two circumstances are alike...thats why everyones input is a good one....

    Tom
     

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