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Help needed from Holley ProJection people!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by zakk, Jan 12, 2003.

  1. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    I bought my projection unit used and when i opened the box (it has damage from the fuel coming out and frayed the box open) there were only 2 of these bolts.

    [​IMG]

    Now i am not the sharpest rock in the room, but i don't see how 2 of these bolts would work. Do i use my preexisting carb studs? or do i need 2 more of the ones shown?

    Also, does the ProJection come with its own coolent temp sensor? Even if it does/doesn't, can i just use my autometer sensor and splice into it?

    TIA!
     
  2. Highlander

    Highlander 1/2 ton status

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    It's been a while sence I've had a Projection, But those bolts looked like their to hold the adaptor plate down then the TBI bolts to it right? If thats the case try the hardware store for them.I'm sure you saw how the TBI fit's on it when it's on it will cover one or two of the bolts. And if I remember right the Manifold plate is counter sunk for those type of bolts. You could use something else but it would look ugly.
    For the Sending unit I always but mine in the cylinder head it was something somebody told meto do so I did and never changed. The reason they gave me was the computer will get a better temp reading from the head as compaired to the water neck area.
    But I also don't think it would hurt to tap into the other wire. The other thing I did with mine was make a cork gasget the fancy foil one they gave me always get a hole in it and gave me a Vacuume leak. So I got some thin cork gasget stuff and cut one out of it.

    Eric
     
  3. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    i have the TBI unit & plates bolted together. So i think these go from the adapter to the manifold. I have the carb stubs on the manifold now, but i'm not sure if that will work. So i think these are counter sunk to bolt the TBI assembly to the manifold, but i'm not sure.

    Glad to hear i can tap into the Autometer sender in the head. I already have the wire going back to the guage, so it could make the engine compartment a bit cleaner.

    anyone else have some ideas or opinions?
     
  4. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    You will need the coolant temp sensor. It is available at most Auto Parts stores that can get Holley parts, or from Summit or Jegs. It is part number 534-2.

    In looking at the Manual ,(sorry for the Frod link) the original kit came with 4 of those. I would say, take those to the hardware store to match them. When you do - post what they are because I need some too! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif These hold the adaptor to the intake - notice the countersunk holes in the adaptor.
     
  5. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    will do! i have the manual, but it doesn't have the numbers of bolts, etc. needed.

    Kinda bummed about the sender. but oh well.
     
  6. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I stuck my temp sender into the intake manifold and it seems to be fine.
     
  7. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    Sorry I never got that pic for you but my rigs in the shop now getting gears. There wasnt really that much to show, Its not even mounted, just the tension from the hoses are holding everything into place. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  8. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    did you use the holley sender? i don't have one so i will need to order one if the kind folks here suggest it.

    Also, how did you run the fuel return line? I have thought of tack welding brackets to hold it up to the floor board and epoxy it into the sender area. any ideas or suggestions?
     
  9. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    On my vehicle (1982), there are like 3 lines out of the gas tank running down the passenger side frame rail. Right about the crossmember they go to rubber for a few inches. that is where I tied in both lines. The main gas line goes into a fuel filter then the pump and then into a high pressure rubber hose that I run up along the firewall and around the distributer to the TBI unit. There is a heat shield on the firwall that I ran both hoses through. The return line follows the same path. It works out well. My buddy in his '71 Bronco didnt have the return line to the tank so he just connected the return to the feed again. This didnt work very well. He ended up with many vapor lock problems. I guess if you have a single line out of the tank, maybe you could get a newer sender with the extra lines.

    I did use the Holley sender but I believe that it is the same as the GM version. Case in point, I was given a Projection Commander 4Di unit that I plan on replacing my 2D unit maybe next month. The guy took it off of his truck and went to a stock setup. He kept the fuel pump from Holley and also the temp sending unit and used both on the stock GM setup.
     
  10. Cmoe

    Cmoe 1/2 ton status

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    Sandman
    How do you like the 2D version? Let me know if your going to get rid of it, as I'm thinking about going to Fuel Injected. Thanks
     
  11. tmanofcali

    tmanofcali 1/2 ton status

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    zakk, if you have any questions about it you might ask david (goldrush). he bought my old setup and he has the manual and since he is close to you he might be able to help more.

    good luck, todd
     
  12. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    It fine. I would leave it on but for this other system that I have. I do plan on selling it but without the fuel pump. It will be in the next few months. I've got some local interest but if not, I plan on putting it in the for sale forum to be fair.
     
  13. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    It seems pretty straight forward, bu the idea of the electric fuel pump scares me. I know i need a spare just to carry around in the glove compartment. the other part is brazing on the fuel door to tap the 3rd line in. I was thinking of making a trap door to have access to the fuel door area, since i am going to have to remove it and braze the fitting in anyway. dropping the whole gas tank would just be too easy for me to do it that way /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  14. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    FYI, for future reference, Holley suggests NOT using the Auto-Meter or Stock water temp sender. They suggest using theirs and finding an alternate mounting point for it.
     
  15. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Yeah, ya gotta watch out for those pesky electric fuel pumps. The darn things never seem to last more than 100-150K miles. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif On my '75 I left the stock fuel pickup in place and mounted the fuel pump inline, in the frame rail, close to the fuel tank. This makes it easy to replace the pump, if ever required. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    For the fuel return line, just take the entire sender assembly out of the tank and let it dry. Then you can drill a hole in the top of the assembly for the fuel return line. While you have it apart, replace the filter sock at the end of the fuel pickup tube. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  16. Highlander

    Highlander 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the info on the sender Zakk I know on my old one I got one and it seemed to be just like a GM sender. But them I'm sure they want you to buy their's so they can charge you a little more. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

    Eric
     

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