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Help needed to combat the EVIL rust!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 89njK5, Apr 5, 2001.

  1. 89njK5

    89njK5 Registered Member

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    Here is the major problem with my $200.00 4x4 K5. At least it runs fine. (except the 4wheel drive doesn't work) How do I tackle this one? Should I cut out the rust and weld in sheet metal? Should I go find a K5 that has a good tail gate are and cut out the body and them weld it into mine? All suggestions Welcome. Thanks in advance.
    [​IMG]

    Where did all this rust come from?
     
  2. 89njK5

    89njK5 Registered Member

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    guess posting pics is different from the other messageboards


    Where did all this rust come from?
     
  3. 89njK5

    89njK5 Registered Member

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  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Ouch. I like this saying "remove radiator cap. drive new truck under radiator cap" problem solved. If the rest of the body is this bad, look for a rust free "tub" and swap it over. Personally, the effort to try and restore a blazer tub that is heavily rotted (and I'm betting there are other parts on the truck like this) its not worth fixing. The other solution is to get a body in better shape.

    I think what causes this is water getting in between the layers of metal. Carpeting doesn't help one bit either. Already typing this, so not sure where you are, but salted roads and no rinsing may have caused your rust too. The way the rear wheelwells are designed, the tires throw water, mud, salt, whatever right into all the cracks, crevices and joints under the truck. Its bound to start rusting sooner or later. Mine will have mudflaps bolted into the wheelwells that prevent the "throwing" of crud all over the underside of my truck. I don't care about where it goes once it leaves my truck, I just don't want it going UNDER my truck.

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
     
  5. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    HA! Thats mild. On mine you can crawl in the back and see the road from the bed. The body and everything else though is highly workable on mine. What I am going to do is lay down 400 clams and get a WHOLE new bed. Just cut out the old one and weld the new one in. All the stuff where the tailgate attaches to is included.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    There...much better...I hate copying and pasting to look at stuff [​IMG]
    Anyhow, dude, that's pretty bad...but it isn't as bad as what I first started with.
    Anyhow, I would cut out all the nasty rust and weld in new metal. For some of the metal that has some surface rust or so, just clean it really good with a wire wheel, or grinder or something. Also, I would get a new complete rear tailpan from JCW for $130 or so and weld new metal to the rear floor (cut out all the rotted parts first, and then bolt the tail pan to the new metal. Anyhow, use lots of rust converter and new metal and then paint and some sort of Bedliner and you'll be set. May take a while, but will be worth it in the end. I'm still battling some rust due to the fact that I didn't eliminate all of them while I was doing this. I slacked off and now am paying the price...its like they never go away. So, get rid of them all and you won't have to worry about them again...unless you forget to clean the underneath of your truck everytime it snows.
    Boss
    Boss



    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.boss.coloradok5.com>http://www.boss.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  7. FatBoyBlazer

    FatBoyBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    ummmm.....JC whitney
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.jcwhitney.com>http://www.jcwhitney.com</A>you can get the tail pan and the bed real cheap, you can also get the floor pans
     
  8. 89njK5

    89njK5 Registered Member

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    Thanks for the help. I start sanding out all the surafe rust w/ an electric sander. And I'm going to start to bondo all the areas on the outside that can take bondo. My bro is going to weld the bad areas in on the driverside floor and the back bed area.

    Where did all this rust come from?
     
  9. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    Looks like wet carpet and or padding was the original problem. I haven't used it but they say POR 15 is amazing stuff for killing rust.....as long as the structure is still ok.

    Michael[​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm>http://www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm</A>
     
  10. garyk5

    garyk5 Newbie

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    If the rust is minor surface stuff, or the slightly pitted variety, then you should use naval jelly (a marine rust removing chemical) and LIGHTLY fill the pits with body filler. From the looks of it, you've got major cancer. Rust never sleeps, you have to be sure and get all of it. Otherwise it will come back. Again, I would use some kind of chemical stripper and sand the hell out of it. Sand until you can't sand anymore, and then sand some more. I just finished restoring a '64 Chevy P/U, which had minor rust. From my limited body working experience, I'd reccomend patch panels (if you know a good welder) otherwise get a new tub. Bondo wasn't made for filling large holes and should not be applied too thick, othewise you'll knock it off the first time you do some serious 'wheeling. Also, don't mess with the Bondo fiberglass resin, it sucks, use the standard Bondo body filler. Just be patient, and remember to keep sanding. Hope this helps!

    ~GaryK5
     
  11. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    I would try to cut as much as I could out. Rust is like cancer it spreads...

    [​IMG]<A target="_blank" HREF=http://community.webshots.com/user/vwryda>http://community.webshots.com/user/vwryda</A>
     
  12. 89njK5

    89njK5 Registered Member

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    Thanks Guys! I plan on cutting out the floor under the driver seat (the 3rd picture) As for the rear I'm still trying to figure out what to do. I'm prob going to cut that out too and weld in sopme sheet metal. I also heard about using street signs. Can I weld a street sign in? Should I use standard sheet metal? I am def not going to buy a new tub. I bought the rig for $200.00 and want to just use it as a winter car. For plowing and hauling stuff from home depot. No wheelin for this rig. It will prob break in half if I take it wheelin!!! I just want to get it into decent shape so that I can use it for plowing ect. This thing is so rusted that even the wheels on it were rusted. I sanded them down w/ a dremil and then painted them w/ some black rustolium. I took me 2 days from 9am-8pm each day to get all the rust off the wheels. They were horrible. I should have sprung for the steal wheels that were for sale for 150 on the for sale section but as you can see I am cheap,broke,poor ect. Again guys thanks for all the help!

    Where did all this rust come from?
     

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