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Help! Rear Main Seal ??

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by sarazk5, Nov 2, 2001.

  1. sarazk5

    sarazk5 1/2 ton status

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    Hey... As some of you know my truck is at the tranny shop under warranty. I asked them how much they would charge me to replace my rear main seal, since the tranny is already out. They said about $150.00.

    They said that if my b/f wanted to he could come change it out in the parking lot, while my truck has no tranny in it. Before I ask him to do this, what all is involved? I am already racking up bills on this thing, I don't want to pay that much to get it done. It's a 79 GMC Jimmy with a TH350 tranny, 340 4 bolt engine.
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    With the tranny out of the way it's pretty easy. Drop the oil pan, remove the rear main bearing cap and install the new seal. 90% of the work is removing the tranny and T-case and then re-installing it. I used a one piece rubber pan gasket when I did my rear main seal. Although they're not cheap I highly recomend using them. It sure made putting the pan on with no leaks real easy! I think the one I used was from Milodon...but I'm sure there are others too. The gasket has steel inserts around the bolt holes to prevent the gasket from squirting out if you overtighten a bolt. It also came with new bolts.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
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  3. sarazk5

    sarazk5 1/2 ton status

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    Do you have to drain the oil too then? in order to remove the oil pan? Should we go ahead and do an oil change in their parking lot too?
     
  4. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    Im gonna have to call bull$hit on the $150 quote.Have them show you the labor in there labor manual for that job .There will be one time for trans r&amp;r and another time for r&amp;r of the flex plate and rear seal.With the trans already out I cant see how they can charge more than .5 or 1.0 hours more for that job.Sounds like there trying to get some $$ outa you since there doin the tranny for free.

    A balanced diet is a beer in both hands.<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</a>
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Yes you'll have to drain the oil too. Pick up a Chilton's or Haynes and read through the procedure beforehand.
    Bring a container for the used oil, basic hand tools and a decent torque wrench, don't forget a filter wrench too. A small wood dowel to push the upper half of the seal into place might be needed too. Mine slid in prety easy though.

    It's not hard...

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  6. sarazk5

    sarazk5 1/2 ton status

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    Actually I am paying for the removal and install of the tranny cause that part of the warranty was already over. My tranny came with an 18 month unlimited mileage warranty, but I never read the part that the labor warranty was only 90 days! So they are charging me 150.00 to pull the tranny and re-install it. Really sucks since the first 90 days that I got it out of tranny shop it sat! Tranny only had 600 miles or so on it when it failed.

    Anyway, when I questioned the labor on it, she said that they only do trannys there so she had called an engine place to see what they would charge to do it. So I'm not sure if she meant she would have him come do it, or they would do it for his price?? Hopefully i can bribe Shawn into doing it tomorrow morning in their parking lot, I am just worried how long it will take etc, and if it is more of a pain in the ass than it is worth.
     
  7. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    DOH!!I for got ya gotta pull the pan and stuff.Brain fart [​IMG]

    A balanced diet is a beer in both hands.<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</a>
     
  8. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Even with pulling the pan it won't take long. I'd guess under 2 hours. There is a lot of room around the pan so it's not hard to get it out of the way. Just have Shawn do a bit of reading to familiarize himself with what needs to be done. Every manual I've had covers the rear main seal pretty good. Flex plate could stay on...although it may be easier to remove it. It's only 6 bolts I think.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
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  9. sarazk5

    sarazk5 1/2 ton status

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    Trusty where did you get the rubber gasket? I am calling around and everyone says they just have cork ones, Napa has one that is cork and rubber. I'd prefer to get an all rubber one. Do you know who sells that brand?
     
  10. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I got mine at a speed shop...I'm pretty sure it was Milodon. It was about $25 or so but worth it!

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
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  11. sarazk5

    sarazk5 1/2 ton status

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    Only place i can find a one piece rubber one is Tognottis they want 36.99!! wow. Hope it is worth it!
     
  12. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Well for myself having tryed with the regular gaskets and not having any luck it was worth the extra cost. I hate fiddling with the litle end pieces and trying to keep the rail gaskets inline etc etc...Maybe it is easy when the motor is upside down on an engine stand, but it was a PITA underneath the truck. The one piece was cake and seals real well.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  13. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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  14. coopertwpk

    coopertwpk 1/2 ton status

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    Is your rear seal leaking?If not leave it if so the seal may not help (groove in crank )also yours is the old style that means you can easily replace it later with the tranny in since its a 2 piece rear seal ,if its at tbi motor the only choice is to yank everything because the rear main seal sit in a housing that bolts on to the rear of the block.

    88k5 silverado w4"lift <font color=orange>d44 and corp14ff</font color=orange> with 4.11
     
  15. sarazk5

    sarazk5 1/2 ton status

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    Got it Done! It was a good thing we did it too! Wasn't hard at all, Tranny shop had already pulled the flex plate so we just had to drop the pan and the oil pump. My oil pump screen was full of carbin, so we replaced it, and I ended up getting a chrome oil pan. (yay) Anyway... Everything went together pretty well, though I ended up just getting a Napa premium gasket, their cork with rubber in them. It all went on pretty good. Longest time was me running around for the oil pump parts and oil pan etc. Tranny is being fixed as we speak, Truck will be ready to pick up tomorrow!!!
     
  16. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Did you replace the pump and screen? If you did make sure the pick up tube is tack welded to the pump. If it is not they can come off and you will loose oil pressure.[​IMG]

    See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  17. sarazk5

    sarazk5 1/2 ton status

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    We didn't replace the pump, just the screen (pick up res.) and the little nylon clip. We didn't weld the new one on, we put it on the same way as old one was. It snapped on pretty securely. Had to use a wrench to pry it on. I doubt it will just fall off. (hope not!)
     

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