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help removing rotor!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by coolhandluke, Jun 8, 2002.

  1. coolhandluke

    coolhandluke 1/2 ton status

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    well, from this pic
    sheared studs

    you can see that I managed to shear off 3 wheel studs (doh!) so now I'm trying to get the rotor off. I can't figure out what to do with these auto lock hubs.

    What do I need to do to now be able to remove the rotor?


    THe book says to remove the internal snap ring, which I've now done, and that the hub should slide out, YEAH RIGHT!

    What else do you have to do to get the rotor off?
    where's the snap ring?

    What else do I need to do to get the rotor off (it's probably trashed) and get to where I can get new wheel studs put in?


    ok, I fixed the links, any suggestions?
     
  2. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    First, those links don't work I get "A problem has been detected.
    You do not appear to be the owner of this album.
    Make sure you are logged in."

    Second, you'll need a hub socket(big socket with a weird pattern to it) that you can get at most any parts store, to remove the hub nut. It is also a lot easier to remove snap rings with snap ring pliers but they're not neccesary.
     
  3. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    have you tried threading in a couple cap screws to give you something to pull on?
    what kind of hubs were those?
    you got 2 snap rings out? 1.?" inner and then a 2.?" outer
     
  4. coolhandluke

    coolhandluke 1/2 ton status

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    They were the stock hubs on an 83, that's all I know, I just got 1 snap ring out, but from what the book says, there is only one on the auto locking hubs, but the manual locks had 2. I can't find any other snap ring.
     
  5. rebelk5frk

    rebelk5frk 1/2 ton status

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    ok... looking at the two pics you posted none of the the hub has been removed but here ya' go. It sounds like you have the outer ring off already. The ring should be holding in the large clutch spring.

    After that is out there is a snap ring that holds the whole autolocking hub assembly in place. With it all installed all you will see is the ends of it where it turns out to be tightened for release etc. You should be able to see an indention around the outer part of the hub with 2 "wires" about the thickness of a coathanger. Use a pair of needle nose pliers etc to compress these two "wires" together and pull on the hub. Sometimes these hubs like to get stuck so just wiggle the hub and/or rotate the axle or rotor a little to work it loose.

    After the hub is out there will be another snap ring around the axle. Behind the snap ring will be a round washer then the two nuts that hold the rotor on with a retaining washer in between them. The nuts that hold the rotor on have 4 indentions for use with a specific spanner socket which can be had at a parts store for around 8-10 bucks.
    Pay close attention to how these are installed because one has a small pin that locks into the retaining washer. This retaining washer not only helps keep the rotor from working loose but is also what causes the auto hubs to engage when in 4 wheel drive.

    While you have it all apart it is a good time to inspect and replace or repack your bearings.

    Good luck
     
  6. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    Can't help you on the hub question (mine are spicer manual ones) but if you're thinking about buying a new rotor then you might want to check the prices on the rotor/hub units with the studs already pressed in. Turned out to be much less hassle for me (no pressing out/in studs etc.) for a bit more $.

    Hopefully this post won't take down the site like it seemed to last night...
     
  7. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Luke,

    Did you get the hubs out and the the rotor off? If not, let me know. I might be able to give you a hand. Rebel gave a pretty good description of how to get the hub out. Follow this link for some pictures of the spanner socket and the spindle nuts he was talking about. I have manual hubs, but after the hub it is all the same. May be a good opportunity for you to switch to manual hubs!

    Let me know if you need a hand. As far as getting the studs pressed in, contact a local AutoZone or something and see if they can do it. If not, maybe they know someplace that can. If you don't find anyone, contact Competition Machine of Plano. They are in the book. Otherwise, give me a shout.
     
  8. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    That rotor looks pretty rough, but if it is only surface rust, the shearing of the wheel studs alone won't make it junk. Make sure when you are putting it all back together that you follow the right procedure to set the wheel bearing preload. You will need a torque wrench.
     
  9. coolhandluke

    coolhandluke 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for all the offers of help guys, I got the rotor off, and got a new one (it was thrashed bad, it got dragged on/off a trailer twice on just the roter (don't get your truck impounded guys, bad thing....)

    I'm going to attempt to put it back together tonight, If I fail, I'll be looking for help!
     
  10. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Hit your local NAPA they will probably press the studs in and out for around $10. Beats pounding on it for an hour /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     

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