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help! tranny /transfer case?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by firsttimeblazer, Mar 31, 2001.

  1. firsttimeblazer

    firsttimeblazer Registered Member

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    okay i am green so bear with(but any help would be appreciated) bougth my 77 a week ago. 350 with 350 trans and i believe the 203 transfer case( lo loc,low, neutral,high,high loc) with manual hubs. tranny was working and i drove a round a bit on weekend. It seemed to shift late into high gear. Had to really get the rpm's up. It did not slip alot though. I took it into shop for smog work. I am not familiar with this shop but there are considered locally as good for working on older vehicles. Okay to the point. He can't get it smogged because of tranny and told it just keeps slipping and shutting down test. He told me transmission is shot and he does not do tranny work etc.I pick it up to take home and i can barley get into gear. I get it home crawling. I was little unclear on the transfer case gear ranges etc. By reviewing the postings by search i guess with the hubs free you put it into high for 2wd(not high loc) for street driving. I went below and found one of two shift linkage arms out. Clip was gone. I reconnected assuming it just came out when i was plying around with the t-case gear shifter?. Well now when I take it from neutral to reverse and try to put it back in park it grinds. The tranny? Wow what is going. I am clueless and green. Of course it does not move at all. But the engine is great so i can sit in the garage rev it up and dream!
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Your Transfer case is in Neutral...if your linkage is properly reconnected just move the shifter into the right position and you should be good to go.

    Rene

    [​IMG]<A target="_blank" HREF=http://jules.coloradok5.com>http://jules.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  3. firsttimeblazer

    firsttimeblazer Registered Member

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    Well i did shift I thought out of neutral to hi and no difference. I guess is could according to what i have read is loosen the t-case linkage and line up the hole and put someting through the bracket and make sure the t-case forks are pointing down and then adjust each rod to length?
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I am not too familiar with the 203 T-case, but if your tranny is grinding going from neutral towards park either you don't have a rear driveshaft (did you check? [​IMG]) or the T-case is in neutral. If you have a haynes manual just follow the shift linkage adjustmant procedure and see what kind of difference that makes.
    I'll have a look at mine and try to learn a little myself.

    Rene

    [​IMG]<A target="_blank" HREF=http://jules.coloradok5.com>http://jules.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  5. firsttimeblazer

    firsttimeblazer Registered Member

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    yeah i am going to try to adjust the t-case linkage tomorrow and see what happens. I will let you know&gt; anyone else got any input?

    4-wheelin in the garage-it's a start!
     
  6. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    I noticed you mentioned that with your hubs unlocked, you shifted into hi, not hi-loc. If your case has not been converted to part time, the Blazer will not move. If this is the case, you should shift to hi-loc for it to move.

    Now the grinding noise makes me think that the transfer case has not fully engaged any of the gears. Either that or your tranny is causing all the trouble.

    Hope this helps.

    <font color=blue>//////
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://blazer79.coloradok5.com>http://blazer79.coloradok5.com</A>
    </font color=blue>[​IMG]
     
  7. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    Soundes like it has hubs but not a -part time- convirson (s.p?) kit, that would make the front driveline spin and grind into park w/the hubs ublocked and t-case in 4 hi. It should "work" o.k. with the front hubs locked in and t-case in 4-hi (more or less, back to factoy specs). It should also move o.k. with the t-case in 4 hi loc or 4 lo lock and hubs unlocked.
    So, to check; Set the E-brake (and make sure its not going to roll, chock the rears), put the t-case in 4 high, unlock both hubs, trans in park, grab the front drive line and twizt. If it will make a full rotation- it's got the part-time kit, if it won't then it dosn't and you will have to drive it with the front hubs locked in.
    -If it does have the kit then I'm at a loss on this one.
    -If it needs a kit, get a good -been around the block- trans shop to do it, I smoked a 203 w/the mile-marker part time kit shimmed to tight.

    Twiztid

    (Shoot, blazin79 got me this time, I've got to learn how to type!- well at least we're like minded, but he can push those keys faster)

    <P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Twiztid on 04/01/01 01:29 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
     
  8. firsttimeblazer

    firsttimeblazer Registered Member

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    alright i am going to head out in a few minutes give this all a try. Keep the advice coming.


    Rather have a blazer in the garage then a ford on the road!!!
     
  9. firsttimeblazer

    firsttimeblazer Registered Member

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    (first the tranny probably is gone) Okay so i had in 4 hi with hubs unlocked (free) in park and
    driveline would barley rotate. I guess this means i do not have part time or it is no good. I locked the
    hubs back up and it shifts through lo-loc to high-loc just fine with hubs locked. It does not grind now
    when i try to put tranny back in park(good) I can put in reverse and it moves. when I put in drive of
    course really goes nowhere. (tranny) the ? I have full time 4wd with manual hubs or I have the
    conversion and it is not working? It has 6 allen heads on the hubs? I will go back and double check
    the t-case fork alignments/linkage.

    "Rather have a Chevy Blazer in the garage than any Ford on the road"
     
  10. firsttimeblazer

    firsttimeblazer Registered Member

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    Okay i need some feedback&gt; When t-case is in neutral the outer fork(passenger side) is forward of the alignment hole by quite a bit. When in low the alignment hole on the fork is just forward of the housing alignment hole. when in lo-loc the fork hole is to the rear of the housing hole. It seems then that the linkage is way out of adjustment? i am clueless or does this sound correct? help this stranger.

    "Rather have a Chevy Blazer in the garage than any Ford on the road"
     
  11. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    Adjusting the NP203 shift linkage 101:
    1. Place the transfer case selector in the cab to neutral
    2. Detach the adjustable rod ends from the transfer case levers
    3. Insert 11/64 drill bit through the aligning holes in the shift lever (this will hold the shift lever in NEUTRAL).
    4. Set both levers on the t-case to the vetrical position (straight up and down). The outer lever is the range lever and the inner lever is the lockout shift lever.
    5. Adjust rod ends so they fit into the shift lever.
    6. Tighten the nuts on shift rods.
    7. Remove the 11/64 drill bit, your done.
    If you have a part time conversion, put the shifter in hi or lo position (not -loc) and see if the front drive shaft moves under engine power (have someone look at the front drive shaft from the side and slowly move the vehicle). If the front drive shaft spins, then there is no part time kit in it. If it doesn't move, then there is a part time kit in it and hi-loc or lo-loc will have to be selected and the front hubs will have to be manually locked to engage the front drive shaft. The 203 output shaft has a differential effect that can lead one to thinking there is a part time kit in it. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
     
  12. firsttimeblazer

    firsttimeblazer Registered Member

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    When i get it all correct i will let all know the case...thanks much and keep any advice coming.

    "Rather have a Chevy Blazer in the garage than any Ford on the road"
     
  13. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I know this idea sounds crazy, but it worked on me: check the vacuum modulator and the lines going from the mod. to the "tree" up on top of the intake manifold. I did a cleaning on a truck once, and it turned out the line was so plugged up, whenever I drove it, it would shift at very higher RPM. I installed a new vac. mod. and cleaned the lines and it ran fine after that. Just my .02.
     
  14. bandit

    bandit 1/2 ton status

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    being a some waht of a tranny pro (not by chocies[​IMG]) i have learned htat you must make sure your vacum lines are hook up right to shift right and that your linkage on the tranny if off could cuse it to slow fry the clutchs in there also if it works great in rev. but not all in ALL foward gear then your tranny is done with

    Bandit
    (Your right i dont understand the jeepthing)
     
  15. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Thats funny. When I had the problem on an 84 K30 I used to own, the lines were plugged up, and the reverse slipped pretty bad when going backwards from a dead stop. All the forward gears worked fine. After I cleaned the line and installed the new mod., everything worked fine, EXCEPT for the reverse. Just something I lived with and dealt with.
     

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